Aiglun - Paroi du Giet
Aiglun is a beautiful village in the East of Provence next to an impressive gorge. The crag that overlooks the village reaches a height of 300m and is of major significance, having many fine long routes. The rock is mostly excellent. The south facing nature of the crag means that it is most suited to climbing in Autumn, Winter and Spring, it is a cauldron on sunny days in the summer. Care needs to be taken with the length of the routes during short winter days, it is easy to run out of time or lose the warmth of the sun when it disappears behind the hills.
Sport and bolted routes
|Topo Ref||Route||Sport Grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
|01||La foire aux thons||7b||250m||
at the left hand side of the cliff.
|02||L'eperon des quatres vents||6a+||250m||
Climbs the walls left of "Les chevreuils . . ". Start either up the first 5c pitch of that, or reach this point with a grade 3 traverse in from the right. 9 pitches, fully bolted:
|03||Les chevreuils de Calendal||6a+||250m||Gold||
A route of excellent quality, pitches 6 and 7 in particular are outstanding. Fully bolted including twin bolts at the belays. Start by walking to the far left hand side of the crag, and traversing a small rock band to reach a single bolt belay 5m off the ground, with the name of the route next to it.
|06||La cerise sur le gateau||6c+||250m||Gold||
A classic. Sustained throughout. Well bolted. Start at the left hand side of the crag, left of "Goutte" which is left of "Masotherapie". "Cerise" is written at the bottom of the climb.
|07||Goutte a goutte||6b+||250m||
Start at the left hand side of the crag, left of "Masotherapie", which has its name written at the foot. The letters "G a G" are barely visible. Not overprotected and some of the gear is getting old. Take care.
|08||Vertige de l'amour||7a||
Start at the left hand side of the cliff, to the right of Goutte, Cerise and Deja Vu. Underneath a chalky corner with a sling and bolt in it.
|Topo Reference||Title||Trad UK E Grade||Trad UK tech grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
A trad route that was first climbed in 1977. 6a+ compulsory.
Start by scrambling to the top of a small pedestal.