Aiglun - Paroi du Giet

Aiglun is a beautiful village in the East of Provence next to an impressive gorge. The crag that overlooks the village reaches a height of 300m and is of major significance, having many fine long routes. The rock is mostly excellent. The south facing nature of the crag means that it is most suited to climbing in Autumn, Winter and Spring, it is a cauldron on sunny days in the summer. Care needs to be taken with the length of the routes during short winter days, it is easy to run out of time or lose the warmth of the sun when it disappears behind the hills.

Region
France - Alpes Maritimes
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
800m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6a - 8b
Faces
South
Directions

Park in the main parking at the bottom of the village, next to a helicopter landing spot and opposite a wooden barn type building. The path to the cliff starts behind this. After a few minutes the path forks where it meets the descent path, take the left fork. After crossing an open section the path forks again, take the right hand fork and the cliff is reached in 20 minutes from the car. Descent from the routes is by following the line of cliffs right (east), which involves a bit of scrambling to reach the highest point, and then a good path with occasional cairns that winds its way down across scree and into the forest to join the approach path. 

topo aiglun escalade climbing

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 La foire aux thons 7b 250m

at the left hand side of the cliff.
7c; 7a+; 7a; 7b; un pas de 6c puis 6a+; 6b+
02 L'eperon des quatres vents 6a+ 250m

Climbs the walls left of "Les chevreuils . . ". Start either up the first 5c pitch of that, or reach this point with a grade 3 traverse in from the right. 9 pitches, fully bolted:
1)3+;
2) 4;
3) 6a;
4) 5c;
5) 5b;
6) 6a;
7) 6a+;
8) 5b;
9) 4.

03 Les chevreuils de Calendal 6a+ 250m Gold

A route of excellent quality, pitches 6 and 7 in particular are outstanding. Fully bolted including twin bolts at the belays. Start by walking to the far left hand side of the crag, and traversing a small rock band to reach a single bolt belay 5m off the ground, with the name of the route next to it.
1) 5c 20m; 2) 6a+. A technical slab. 30m; 3) 5c 25m ;4) 5b. A scrappy pitch. 40m; 5) 5c 25m; 6) 5c nice bridging to a ledge, belay on the left 25m; 7) 6a+ The superb wall has huge holds 40m; 8) 4c one move then easy. 20m;9) 5c. An excellent final pitch. 30m
06 La cerise sur le gateau 6c+ 250m Gold

A classic. Sustained throughout. Well bolted. Start at the left hand side of the crag, left of "Goutte" which is left of "Masotherapie". "Cerise" is written at the bottom of the climb.
1) 6c+;
2) 6c;
3) 6a;
4) 6a+;
5) 6b+;
6) 6c;
7) 6b;
8) 6a
07 Goutte a goutte 6b+ 250m

Start at the left hand side of the crag, left of "Masotherapie", which has its name written at the foot. The letters "G a G" are barely visible. Not overprotected and some of the gear is getting old. Take care.
1) 6b;
2) 6b;
3) 5b;
4) 5c;
5) 6a;
6) 6b+;
7) 6a
08 Vertige de l'amour 7a

Start at the left hand side of the cliff, to the right of Goutte, Cerise and Deja Vu. Underneath a chalky corner with a sling and bolt in it.
1) 6a;
2) 6a+;
3) 7a/7a+for one move, can be aided
4) 6b;
5) 6a;
6) 6c;
7) 6c;
8) 5c

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
09 Déja vu E3 5c 250m Gold

A trad route that was first climbed in 1977. 6a+ compulsory.
Take friends, wires and slings. Pitch grades are French:

Start by scrambling to the top of a small pedestal.
1) 6b. Climb the smooth corner crack, to move right to the belay of Cerise. 30m;
2) 5c+ Climb past pitons to reach the ledge and move right to belay. 25m;
3) 5b. Traverse the ledge to belay on a bolt and sling. 20m;
4) 6a Climbs up and left, an excellent exposed pitch. 35m;
5) 6a. Up past several slings to a slab and ledge, then 5m right to the belay of "A la recherche". 40m;
6) 6a. Traverse to rejoin and climb the corner. Belay on slings. 40m;
7) 6a. Traverse right to slings then up and over a small roof. Traverse right past more slings and pitons to belay on slings. 30m;
8) 5c. Straight up to the corner to belay on pitons or higher on a tree. 50m;
9) 4. 15m

Crags in this region: