Cheselenfluh

Cheselenflue is the big impressive cliff that can be seen from the Stockalp to Melchsee Frutt road, or ski piste in winter. It is set in a beautiful location and has a number of friendly multi pitch routes that are well bolted and on generally good rock. It faces due south and so, given good conditions, it is possible to climb here nearly all year round. Clearly when the sun is in full force in the summer, it will be too hot, and when the ledges have snow on them in winter, impractical, but otherwise it dries and warms up quickly. The routes left of the waterfall offer steep, technical wall climbing, those to the right are more overhanging and stay dry in the rain. Descent is by abseil, close to the routes. On the right hand side the abseil descents will test the nerves, and it is important to be competent, and know how to use the fixed ropes to get back onto the rock. Access to the cliff is relatively easy, and so it can be popular when condtions are good. More detailed topos can be found here: https://www.melchsee-frutt.com/topos-cheselen.html

Region
Switzerland - Central
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
1700m
Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
5c - 7a
Faces
South

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Pulsar 7a 200m

Fully bolted, 2x50m rope. 6b obligatory. Abseil descent. Pitches: 5b, 6b, 6c, 6a+, 6a+, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 6b, 6b+.

02 Technoparty 6c+ 200m

A nice route with a beautiful final pitch. Fully bolted, 2x50m rope. 6b obligatory. Abseil descent. Pitches: 5c+; 5c+; 6c; 6a+; 6b; 6a+; 6c+

03 Überholspur 6c 150m

Fully bolted, 2x50m rope. 6c obligatory. Abseil descent, take at least 18 quick draws. 4 pitches: 6b+; - ; 6c; 6b+

04 Meteorit 5c+ 200m

The easiest route on the cliff is often combined with the top two pitches of Roter Punkt. Take two 50m ropes. Abseil descent. 7 pitches, stances 2 and 5 are shared with Überholspur. 1) 5c+; 2) 5b+; 3) trend left at 5c+. Überholspur goes direct at 6c; 4) 5c; 5) keep left to the lower off of Überholspur; 6) 5b; 7) 5c+ . It is possible at the end of pitch 4 to move right to join the belay of Roter Punkt, and finish up the last two pitches of that route 6a; 6b;

05 Roter Punkt 6c 200m

Start at the route name left of a large corner. 2x50m ropes required, well bolted, 6b obligatory. Abseil down the route. Stances 3 and 4 are shared with a sister route Kontinuum that starts further right. Roter Punkt has 7 pitches: 1) 6b+; 2) 5c+; 3) Keep left 6b+, Kontinuum goes right here and joins at the next stance ; 4) Keep left, Kontinuum goes right. 5a; 5) 6c; 6) 6a; 7) 6b

06 Unterwegs nach Hause 6c+ 200m

An independent line at the right hand side of this sector. 2x50m ropes, 6b+ obligatory, abseil down the route. 7 pitches: 6b; 6b; 6a+; 6b+; 6a; 6c+; 6b+

07 Trockener Regen 6c+ 80m

Starts right of the cave and left of Dr blau Chäfer. Steep! 2x50m rope, fully bolted. Abseil descent. 5 pitches: 5b; 6b; 6c; 6c+; 6b

08 Dr blau Chäfer 6a+ 150m

A steep route with an exciting abseil descent. 2x50m rope; 6a obligatory. 6 pitches, move left after the 4th where "Die Männer" goes right: 5c; 6a+; 6a; 6a+; 6a+; 6a

09 Die Männer von Memmental 7a+ 180m

Another steep pitch that climbs through the big roof and has an exciting descent. 2x50m ropes, abseil descent. 5 pitches, move right at the end of the 2nd pitch where Dr blau Chäfer goes left: 6b+; 6c+; 7a+; 6c+ (1 pt aid); 6b+