Diamantstock

 Diamantstock is a granite mountain accessible from the very pleasant Bächlitalhütte. The Grosser Diamantstock is an excellent full day tour that is often underestimated. Despite the relatively easy technical grades, it is still a long day out. Chlyne Diamantstock has has two well bolted routes up it's south face, on excellent rock amidst magnificent alpine scenery. The hut has a small lake behind it, (Bächli beach) and behind the lake is a crag with a few "warm up" routes, in the 4a to 6b range.

Region
Switzerland - Central
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
3162m
Number of routes
2
Range of Routes
4c - 5a
Faces
South

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
1 Sir Elias 5b 280m **

A pleasant well bolted route on good granite, spoilt only by the terrace separating the bottom 5 pitches from the top 4. Start to the right of a prominent chimney below and to the left of Chlyne Diamantstock. Five pitches of 5a are followed by a walk across the moraine to 4 finishing pitches: 5a; 5a+; 5a; 4c. Descend either by abseil, or by walking behind the ridge in an easterly direction to the col, and descending the moraine to a short finishing abseil / scramble.

2 Piccolo Diamantino 4c 280m **

Well bolted on good granite. Start behind a large boulder left of the descent scree. Four pitches (4c, 4a, 2b, 4b) lead to the middle section, which can be walked / scrambled to the final wall with 3 pitches (5a, 4c, 5a) that lead to the summit ridge. Descend either by abseil, or by walking behind the ridge in an easterly direction to the col, and descending the moraine to a short finishing abseil / scramble.

3 Diamanstock Ostgrat 400m ***

A long day out, and a big route despite the bolts on the harder sections. Very popular, which can lead to queues. Some slings, friends and wires necessary as well as crampons to descend the (35 deg. steep) glacier. Starts at the foot of the arete at the end of the east ridge. Climb the ridge (4c,4b). Now traveres the ridge (III) with a short 5m abseil (or V downclimb) until it is possible to reach a "bail out" abseil point below the final ridge. Climb this (4b,4b,4b - some bolts) until it is possible to traverse the south face (III) to climb (III) to just below the summit. Traverse around the arete to reach the summit. Descend the north west side of the ridge (cairns) until it reaches the East face and descend this with two grade III sections to reach the glacier. Descend this to pick up the path that leads back to the hut.