The Engelhörner is a huge area of bizarre limestone peaks offering many long alpine routes with some excellent multi pitch sport routes mixed in. The small Engelhörner hut at the foot of the peaks makes an excellent base for the routes, with a warm welcome and friendly hosts. The area is complex and can be a bit confusing on the first visit. There are a large number of peaks, the most popular ones being those that circle around the Ochsetal that leads up from the hut. In a clockwise direction these are klein Simeler, gross Simeler, Vorderspitze, Kingspitze, Tannenspitz and Rosenlauistock.
Routes vary from classic scrambling to the top of the peaks, to some desperate modern classics. The rock on the popular routes is usually very good, although the gullies and descents have a lot of loose rubble. Helmets are strongly recommended, if not essential. In recent years many of the classic routes have been cleaned up and well bolted, however it is worth carrying a rack of gear on most routes.
In this area:
It looks like a friendly Swiss crag, but Kingspitze is actually a major Alpine undertaking.
|Engelhörner Simelistock and Vorderspitze||
At the left hand side of the cirque of cliffs surrounding the Ochsel valley are three impressive peaks. Klein Simeler, gross Simeler and Vorderspitze are connected by a long ridge climb and several modern classics taking direct lines to the summits. All of the hard routes are well protected with bolts, some backup wires and friends useful.