Falkenfluh

Falkenfluh is a large important cliff containing hundreds of excellent routes, nearly all single pitch up to 30m in height. The climbs are predominately steep walls, and the routes are in all grades, with something to suit everyone, except perhaps the complete beginner. Most of the routes are well bolted, although the bolts are sometimes a little spaced, but rarely dangerously. The crag is located in a forest offering welcome shade in the summer, which can mean some sections are slow drying after prolonged rain. The area is very beautiful, and is popular, but rarely crowded. The cliff has two distinct sections. the left hand, south side, and the right hand side that faces south west, and gets the sun in the afternoon. Most of the harder routes are on the right hand side.

 

Number of routes
250

In this area:

Title Description
Falkenfluh - Falkenspitz

The left hand side of Falkenfluh has many excellent mid grade routes climbing to the top of the Falkenspitz and Amboss pinnacles. It is typical Baslerjura climbing, with walls, corners, slabs and cracks, often polished. The left hand side gets the sun most of the day, although the trees do provide some shade.

Falkenfluh - Höhle Gasse

Höhle Gasse is the narrow lane between the crag and the 4m high boulder lying next to it. 

Falkenfluh - Lange Wand

Lange Wand is the continuous stretch of crag on the right hand side of Falkenfluh, just after the Holzer recess and its fine arete "Holzerkante". It is reached in just a few minutes from the descent staircase. Most of the cimbing is in the upper grades, with many excellent hard routes. It gets the sun in the afternoon, but the trees can keep it pleasantly cool. The routes can be slow to dry after rain.

Falkenfluh - Piazza Grande

Some easy slabs, some desparate walls and one of the best routes in the area. Piazza Grande lives up to it's name as one long layback, although maybe it is better to jam it in places. The crag, like the rest of Falkenflluh gets the sun in the afternoon. 

Falkenfluh - Quellenchopf

The first crag you reach as you descend the steps is above a spring that leads into the river Birs. There are only a few very hard routes here, including a right to left boulder traverse completed in 1994 by Fred Nicole.

 

Falkenfluh - Twelve

The crag nearest to the Flakenfluh staircase contain many excellent routes and is justifiably popular. Climbing is on walls typically with good solution pockets or short cracks, and the routes are often strenuous. It gets the sun in the afternoon, but the trees can keep it pleasantly cool. The routes can be slow to dry after rain.

Falkenfluh - Walfisch

The continuation of Falkenfluh past Höhle Gasse, is again steep and hard. Many of the routes here were put up at the end of the last century, and remain test pieces for locals and visiting climbers. The rock is mostly good, and reasonably well bolted, if maybe a bit sporting in places.