Falkenfluh - Lange Wand

Lange Wand is the continuous stretch of crag on the right hand side of Falkenfluh, just after the Holzer recess and its fine arete "Holzerkante". It is reached in just a few minutes from the descent staircase. Most of the cimbing is in the upper grades, with many excellent hard routes. It gets the sun in the afternoon, but the trees can keep it pleasantly cool. The routes can be slow to dry after rain.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
600m
Number of routes
40
Faces
West
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Über den Wolken 6b 15m

At the left hand side of Lange Wand, starting off the large block

02 Driffiti 7a 20m

The wall starting to the right of the block

03 Stan und Olli 7a 20m

Climbs the faint groove just right of Driffiti

05 Meteor 6b+ 22m

Start as for Traumfabrik and move left up the long corner / groove

06 Traumfabrik 7b 30m
07 Der zerbrochene Traum 6c 30m ***

starts up Zelot and moves left on pockets and then back right to finish as for Zelot. Excellent

08 Zelot 7a 30m ***

A classic

09 Herr der Pilze 7b 30m
10 La Ola 7a 30m ***

Climb to the roof and make strenuous moves left to finish up the groove with a long reach. Sustained and strenuous, high in the grade. There is a short extension, details unknown.

11 The scream of the butterfly 7a 30m ***

Same start as L'ola. but move right at the overhang. If you finish at the first lower off, it is 6c+/7a with a mean clip at the lower off for people operating at this grade rather than 8b.

12 The scream of the butterfly extension 8b 30m

The extension is bouldery on small undercuts and monos

13 Silly thing 5c+ 15m
14 Highlander 6b+ 15m
15 Taxidrive 7a 30m

The extension to Hanfwibli moves left where Zigarettentaxi goes right

15a Zigarettentaxi 7c 30m

The original extension to Hanfwibli

16 Richtung Ozonloch 7b+ 30m
16a Slime / Acid House 7c+ 25m
17 Ti penso e ti mando 7a 30m **

The crack line is marked with a painted pebble at the start. Gets progressively harder with a long reach at the end

18 Kopftänzer 7a+ 30m
19 Schmetterling in Paradies 7c 30m
20 Schmätterding in der Hölle 7b+ 30m
21 Brix 6a+ 10m
22 La belle vie 8b 30m
23 Diagonal light 8a 30m

Starts up La belle vie and traverses to finish at the top of Paradis

24 L'amour direkt 8b+ 30m
26 L'amour egoncentrique 8b+ 30m

Starts up Paradis and traverses left to finish up L'amour direkt

27 Paradis sur la terre 8b 30m
28 Irrwana 8b 30m
29 Schmunzelmonster 8a+ 25m
30 Cadeaux vieux 7c+ 25m
31 Janus Kante 6a+ 25m
32 Janus 6a 25m
33 Bagage 7a 20m
34 Strawberry Angel 6c 10m
35 Stablämpli 5c 8m

Just to the right of Strawberry Angel

36 Parafon 6a 16m

Just to the right again, starting up a crack

37 No Name 7b 18m

A right hand start to Parafon

38 Gugus 6b+ 18m

Just to the right of the last two routes