The mystery of the disappearing guidebook. Have you ever noticed that whereas coat hangers in cupboards seem to breed and multiply on their own accord, guidebooks die and disappear. You buy the thing, use it a couple of times and then a year later it is nowhere to be seen. Where did it go? You carefully put it back on the bookshelf, but somehow in the intervening time it disappeared. Lost? Stolen? Decayed? Who knows? It is to be hoped that Climbapedia follows the coat hanger path, and not the fate of the traditional paper guidebook . You could help here. In fact it is the difficulty finding information, getting a guidebook to Fallenflue, and then it disappearing, that was the inspiration for Climbapedia.It is a great crag, and it deserves that people can find it.
Anyway back to the crag itself.
Mostly single pitch routes with a big wall feel about them. The view of the surrounding mountains, particularly when the valley is shrouded in mist, is stunning.
The South face is an excellent winter climbing venue. Because of the vast amount of rock, if the sun is shining it is possible to climb in T shirt and shorts in the middle of the ski season. Forget it in high summer though! By contrast the North West side is more suited to hot weather.
Photos (click for full view)
In this area:
Long pitches from the exposed ledge. Make sure your rope is long enough!
Single pitch sport routes in a big wall setting. Excellent rock, hot when the sun is shining in winter, and too hot to climb if it is shining in the summer.
Excellent climbing from the exposed ledge
Short warm up routes away from the main crag