Gandia

An excellent sport climbing crag with routes up to 30m long on steep, solid and sometimes polished limestone. Bolting is very good and there are a variety of routes from steep walls to overhanging tufas. It can get hot even in the middle of winter.

Region
Spain - Costa Blanca
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
200m
Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
Mostly 6a to 7c
Faces
South
Sun
All day
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
05z SECTOR HIDRAULICS

THE STEEP CAVE TO THE LEFT OF SECTOR VICI

06 Coral bajilla 5c 15m
07 Monsters of Rock 7a 15m

Hand traverses the lip of the roof to reach the same lower off as the next route

08 Pequeno saltamontes 5b 15m

Cimbs up through the hole to reach the previous lower off. A much easier and more fun way to get to the same place!

09 Erupcion 5b

A traverse that continues from the previous route past the top of the next routes to reach the lower off of Blaniulus

10 Assassi de vampiros 7a 15m
11 Negue Gorrak 7c+ 15m
12 Pythophthora cithrophthora 7b
13 Quien malonda 7a+ 15m
14 Spherique Voice 7a+ 15m

Same start as Quien malonda, then moves right

15 Parabolic 7b

A short route up the left hand side of the tufa. Possible to continue up the previous route (7b)

16 Kortatu 7b

The right hand side of the tufa

17 Viatge a Cuba 7b 15m
18 Blaniulus gluttulatus 7a 15m
19 Patatas a lo pobre 7b+ 20m
20 Asamblea de Mojaras 7c+ 18m
21 Ostia coqueta 7a+ 18m

same lower off as Asamblea

22 Zucaricida 6c 25m

Climb the slab until it is possible to move onto the left wall and follow this on pockets to the lower off

23 Lei del perrerro 6c+ 25m

A right hand variant to Zucaricida, ending at the same lower off

23z SECTOR VICI

THE SECTOR WHERE THE PATH MEETS THE CRAG. LOTS OF EXCELLENT MID GRADE CLASSICS

24 Fisura tal 6a+ 25m

The long groove and wall

25 Pastor i porreta 6c 25m

The sharp wall just to the right finishing at the same lower off

26 Nina we porcelana 6a+ 25m

Also finishes at the same lower off as the two previous routes

27 Gora 7a 20m
28 Pa Roig 6b 30m

Climbs the grey wall left of the red streak to a lower off at 20m. Continue more easily to the lower off of the next route.

29 Asquerosa coincidencia 6c

Follows the left hand side of the prominent red streak past a lower off to finish through a small roof.

30 El sol 6b+ 25m

A classic line up the right hand side of the red streak to the crux roof

31 Kin mal d'ous 7b 10m

A short route out of the cave

32 Escorreguda precoc 6c 25m

Strart just to the right of the small cave, and move left over the lip to continue up the wall

33 Peiote de bote 6b 30m ***

Where the footpath arrives at the crag is a small cave. Climb direct just to the right of the cave. A tricky first few moves then sustained up to and through the roof. Excellent

34 Valentet de Valencia 6b 30m

Climb the wall behind the tree to the bulge. Excellent

35 Placa de Ulaca 6b 25m

Climb the grey wall past a tree

36 Muricana 6b 25m
37 Nacio 6b+ 25m

A good pitch up the wall right of the cave

38 Madarikatuak 6c+ 15m

Starts at a flake behind a tree. Very hard at this grade if you follow the line of the bolts

39 Chiqui 6c+ 15m
40 Fes-te-ho 6a+ 15m
41 En falles no folles 6b 35m

The long left hand line up to and over the roof

42 Capitan Manchengo 6a 30m

Same start as the previous route, but move right after a few metres to a lower off below the roof.

43 Kaya 6b+ 25m

Climb up to and through the bulges

43z SECTOR FUNDICIO

A hundred metres right from the approach path is a WHITE BOWL SHAPED SECTION OF CRAG with many steep routes out of it. The first climbs are to the left of this bowl.

44 Sense opcio 6b 20m

Climbs up to the orange wall and through the roof

45 Nupcias 6b+ 20m
46 Milan Kundera 6a+ 20m

The thin crack in the steep groove

47 Chitiri, chitiri 4c 20m

A pleasant, relatively easy route up the steep grey wall

48 La insuportable 6a 20m
49 La levedad 6a 20m
49 El ser 5b 15m

A shorter route

50 Bombero gorilero 6a 20m
51 Tamborinaes 93 6a+ 20m
52 El Rigio 6b+ 20m

The first of the thuggy routes

53 Pepestroika 6b 15m

Climb up to the hanging tufa at 4m and make a hard move up and left to a big jug. Then follow equal sized holds all the way to the lower off. Very satisfying.

54 Ultima Albertencia 6c+ 15m

Climb to the large hole and continue on good but spaced holds to the lower off. A fun route

55 Amarrada el pillo 6b+ 20m

Follow the pockets rightwards to the overlap then continue on good holds to the lower off

56 Pere 6c+ 20m

Gain the tufa and continue with a long reach

57 Publicassion sin tradision 7b+ 20m

The steep line up the right hand side of this sector

58 A mi no m'afecta 6c 12m

Climb the left hand side of the pillar. A direct is also possible (s'ambossa, 6c)

59 Espanya no m'apanya 7b 15m

The right hand side of the pillar

60 En médium 7c 15m

Short and hard

61 Dia de borratxera 7b 15m
62 Joc de manos 7a
B00 SECTOR POTENT

50m to the RIGHT of SECTOR FUNCICIO

B01 Gandia Potent One 5c 20m

At the left hand end of the Potent sector

B02 Stephen Kaka 6b+ 20m
B03 Cuartet de bany 5b 20m

Climbs to the same lower off as Stephen Kaka

B04 Novatillos 5c 20m

An excellent route up the grey wall behind the bush

B05 P.R. 4c 25m

The groove

B06 G.R. 6c+ 25m

A right hand finish to the previous route

B07 Maque, Popeye y la Sirla 6b+ 30m
B08 Donde hostias putas 6b+ 25m
B09 Joputa 6b+ 20m

Climb steeply out of the cave and continue up bulges then the grey wall

B10 Star fort 7b 20m

Climb the orange pillar to eventually join Joputa near the top

B11 Tercer ull 7b 20m

Start as for Star fort, and move right before the bulge to the lower off of Mulek

B12 Mulek el targui 7b 20m

An excellent route up the wall to the right of Star fort. Start just right of the pillar and trend up and left to difficult final moves

B13 Urbalia Rurana 7b 25m

Start as for Mulek then move right through the bulges left of the crack

B14 Sugar glass 7b+ 25m

The steep wall left of the "eyes"

B15 Botoia sakatu 7c 25m

The steep wall and small roof right of the "eyes"

B16 Enya 7b 25m

The right hand tufas that finish at the same lower off as Botoia sakatu

B17 Baila al alba 7b+ 25m

Climb through the two roofs right of Enya

B18 A la babilla 7a+ 25m

An excellent route that gains the hanging groove right of Baila al alba

B19 L'os 7a 20m

Climbs the elephant like tufa with a problem start followed by steep sustained climbing. Excellent

B20 Dos super carrozas 7a+ 15m
B21 Don Diego 7a+ 15m
B22 Jaqo mata 7a+ 15m
B23 Sopas del rei 7b 15m

A steep pocketed wall

B24 Solta el mos 7a 15m
B25 Gallo de la Susanna Alba 7a 15m
B26 Otilia resiste 7a+ 15m
B27 Prou d'hipocresia 7a+ 15m
B28 Groceries 7a 20m
B29 Andreu i Papandreu 6b+ 25m
B30 A mano 7a 20m
B31 Bum bum ipaneme 5b 15m
B32 Beato Andres Hibernon 6a 15m

To the same lower off as bum bum

B33 Lleones 5b 15m
B34 Fetiche 6c 20m
B35 Abu abd Allah Muhammed 6b+ 20m
B36 Sense goma no conill 6a+ 20m
B37 3/4 d'hora 6a+ 20m
B38 Vergonya 5b 20m