Gempen, or Schartenfluh as it is more formally known, is a popular crag in a beautiful location, with great views over the surrounding countryside. It is possible to see the Alps on a clear day, and the sunset is well worth waiting for. There are 4 main sectors, all with their own character. The rock is mostly solid, and getting polished on the popular routes. It dries very quickly, and Sandührliwand in particular catches all the sun that is going, so can be busy on a nice Sunday afternoon in autumn, winter and spring. There is a convenient restaurant on top of the crag, please don't park here, not only might you get a fine, but it is their livelihood, and puts access at risk.
Photos (click for full view)
In this area:
A nice selection of climbs in this middle section of Gempen, mostly on steep walls with a few aretes and slabs thrown in. Not as open as Sanduehrliwand, so not as warm on sunny winter days, but some welcome shade in the summer
The easiest sector at Gempen with many short, safe routes in the lower grades. Perfect for beginners, and the routes on Block wall are well worth the visit in their own right.
A very sunny crag that dries quickly and can sometimes be too hot even in the coldest months! Excellent wall climbing often on pockets, well bolted.
Ziegenrücken is the first slab you reach after descending the steep stepped gully. The climbs are popular, perhaps partly due to the easier routes, and obvious warm up potential. However, especially in hot weather they can feel hard for the grade, despite the shade.