Grimsel - Mittagfluh

An excellent 350m slab of granite , offering some fine routes. The routes are bolted, with good anchors on all the belays, however a few friends and wires are necessary on most routes. Although the cliff has a generally "friendly" ambience, the routes are nevertheless long alpine undertakings. On sunny weekends the crag can get busy and although the rock is mostly solid on the routes, there are still some loose stones on the ledges. Descent by abseil is the easiest way down, but can be dangerous for other parties, so the walk round, although steep and alpine is recommended.

Region
Switzerland - Grimsel Pass
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
1800m
Number of routes
5
Range of Routes
5a - 7a
Faces
South West

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Abadia 7a 350m

The route left of the arete stays longer in the shade. The 7a pitch can be aided at 6b+ (making the whole route 6b obligatory). 6a+; 5a+; 6b+; 6a+; 5a; 5a; 6b; 6a+; 7a (6b+,A1); 5b; 3a

02 Sudkante 5a 350m

The line just right of the arete. 4b; 4b; 3c; 4b; 4c; 4a; 4b; 3c; 4c; 5a

03 Durststrecke 5c 350m ***

A fine route, taking the middle of the sunlit slab. If you find the route thirsty work, there is a tap at the end of pitch 7. Most pitches are 50m long, and it is fully bolted provided you don't wander off onto one of the other routes. 5b; 4c; 5a; 5a; 5a+; 5b; 5a+; 5b; 5c

04 Am Ueli sis Chueli 5b 350m

The second line of bolts left from the corner, and right of Durststrecke. Not as well bolted as Durststrecke, route finding can be tricky and the best is saved for last. Take some friends and wires. 4b;3b; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a+; 5b; 5b

05 Heidi mier weidi mier beidi 5c 350m

The right hand line on the wall. 3b; 5c+; 5a; 5a; 5b; 5a; 5b; 5b; 5b+

06 Loris Boxenstop 5c+ 350m

Climbs the face right of the large corner. (5a; 5b+; 5c; 5c+; 4c; 4c; 4c+; 5a; 2; 5a+; 5b; 5a). Descent is either by the alpine path, or by abseiling one of the other routes