Ingelstein
Ingelstein must rank as one of the most attractive looking, and least visited crags in the Basler Jura. As you drive up the hairpins towards Gempen, it is usually in bright sunshine and looks fantastic. Some of the routes are. Closer inspection however reveals a lot of vegetation, some loose rock, a lot of traditional rather than bolted routes, noise from the road, and a cauldron when the sun shines outside the winter months. The left hand side of the crag has a few bolted routes, and the 2nd pitches are worth doing. Amongst and to the right of these, the natural lines have been left for you to slot friends and nuts into the cracks. The quality of the rock has not led to any enthusiasm to bolt it.
Take the road from Dornach towards Gempen and park just after the second right hand hairpin bend (the third hairpin in fact). The crag is fully visible and a forest track leads off to the left. Follow this over a small stream to a left curve, and go up and right to the foot of the crag.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| 03 | Aschenbrödel | 6c | 16m | From the first belay on Half Dollar climb the wall on the right |
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| 04 | Aussenseiter | 6a+ | 17m | |
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| 06 | Ingelsteiner Kante | 6a+ | 35m | Climb the left hand crack at the foot of the long corner and continue past the belay to reach the bolts on the left hand wall |
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| 08a | Autofocus part 1 | 6b | 15m | Move right from the belay of Riss der Alten |
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| 08b | Autofocus part 2 | 7a | 15m | continue direct |
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| 09a | Focus part 1 | 6a | 15m | |
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| 09b | Focus part 2 | 6b | 16m | |
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| 10 | Zoom | 6b | 28m | |
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| 11 | Ameisenweg | 5c | 46m | The long crack, the pitch can be split at the lower off after 15m |
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| 12 | Rutus Chrutus | 6a | 46m | Climb left of the corner to reach the break and traverse right to a belay (5c). Continue left into the crack of Ameisenweg and then after a few moves leave this to cross the right hand wall (6a) |
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| 13 | Rutus Bombastus | 6b+ | 28m | From the belay of Rutus Chrustus climb up and right to join that route |
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| 15 | Handriss | 6a+ | 43m | Starts between the first crack of Rutus Christus and the corner. Protected with bolts, pegs and threads |
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| 16 | Ein Gerücht | 7b | 26m | Climbs the wall right of the belay of Genuss Riss |
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| 29 | Entlebucher Highway | 7a | 40m | Two pitches, both 7a. the only real sport climb on the right hand side of the crag |
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| 32 | Ingelschwein | 6c | 18m | A short bolted route at the right hand side of the crag |
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| 33 | Green Day | 6b | 15m | Same lower off as Ingelschwein |
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Trad Climbs
| Topo Reference | Title | Trad UK E Grade | Trad UK tech grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| 01 | Der schöne Grat | HS | 45m | |
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| 02 | Half Dollar | E1 | 5b | 45m | The long corner is done in 2 pitches |
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| 05 | Half dollar right hand variant | E1 | 5b | 27m | climbs the right hand side of the flake from the first belay |
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| 07 | Riss der Alten | E2 | 5c | 45m | Start up the corner and chimney to eventually break left across the upper wall |
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| 14 | Genuss Riss | HVS | 5a | 42m | The long corner finishing on the right |
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| 17 | Herbstweg | HVS | 5a | 48m | Aid climbing necessary |
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| 18 | Ingelsteiner Dach | E4 | 6b | Climbs through the large roof. Grade not checked. One of the original testpieces of the Basler Jura. Climbing not allowed due to nesting bats. Which is Ok, because it is horrible and loose. |
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| 20 | Wollblumenweg | E1 | 5b | 46m | A pegged crackline right of the big roof. Has a belay at 15m. Also possible to start right of the crackline to reach the same 1st belay |
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