Kalymnos Atlantis

Atlantis and Utopia are a set of recently developed crags (2017 / 2018) up and to the right of Ghost Kitchen. The Atlantis sector offers excellent middle grade slab climbing on gouttes d'eau, and the neighbouring sector Utopia, has many hard steep tufa and wall climbs. The rock is sharp and still brittle in places but with time should produce many classic routes. Sector Atlantis is in the shade until 1pm, the cave until 5pm and the rest of Utopia gets the sun at about 2pm.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8c
Faces
South West
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

ATLANTIS. The large grey slab. All routes are very good

02 Attentat au Prusik 5a 20m
03 Les colonnes d'Hercule 6b 35m

An excellent long pitch

04 Stanlay Lubric 5b 20m
05 Kalymiti j'aime 6a 20m
06 Antinea 6b 20m
07 La brune optimale 5c+ 25m

move slighty left at the bulge

08 Lardonnez vous 6a 20m
09 Les deux choux chics 6a 25m
10 Plat tonique 6a 30m
11 Helvetes underground 6a+ 25m
12 Salle d'Atlante 5b 20m
13 Klepto 6a 20m
14 Costa Nostra 6b 30m
15 Amadou 6a+ 20m
16 Tartufobe 6a 20m
20 SECTOR

UTOPIA CAVE. The obvious cave has a few steep tufa climbs

21 Keravnos 7c 15m
22 Ca et la 7b+ 15m
23 Gravity Game 7b+ 15m
24 Tip Top 7b 15m ***

Athletic with a hard last move

25 Zuaya 15m

7b?

26 Wrestling with a Goat 7b+ 15m
27 Better when it is hard 7b+ 15m

There is a bolted extension, grade not known

29 Speedo Man 7b+ 15m

Grade not confirmed

30 Tzitziki 7c 40m

A long route with the crux at the end

31 Super psyched 6c+ 20m
32 Super psyched extension 8a 35m Gold
33 Use your feet 6c 25m
34 Use your feet extension 7a+ 45m
36 Use your brain 6c 25m ***

Scramble up to the ledge and climb the crack system strenuously on large holds to a pumpy rest in a niche. Then use your brain to exit this.

36a SECTOR

UTOPIA RIGHT. Juat round the corner from the cave are some more steep walls

37 Tranquile sur mon Ile 7a 15m

The long tufa

38 Muscle, Sweat and Blood 7b+ 15m
39 Don't Follow 8a 10m
40 Learn to Disobey 8c 10m
41 Learn to Lead 7b 10m *

The right hand side of the wall. Sharp and brittle broccolli