Kalymnos Gerakios Right
Gerakios has two distinct sectors. The left hand side containing the more difficult routes on Rainbow Wall and the Upper Cave, and the right hand side including Main Wall and Trois Ilots. The right hand side, described here, has many excellent mid grade routes on walls and slabs with rough rock and good incut holds. It gets the sun after about 12.30. Mot of the route names are written at the foot of the climbs.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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00 | SECTOR MAIN CLIFF | The orange coloured wall that is the first cliff you reach on the approach walk |
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15 | Flag | 6b | 22m | ** | Up a slab and then cross a blank section with difficulty to a small corner. Originally graded 6a, but not possible at this grade |
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16 | Grueffelo | 6b+ | 25m | * | ||
17 | Hannah | 6a+ | 25m | ** | ||
18 | Port | 5c | 25m | * | Right of the gate, rough and very photogenic |
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20 | SECTOR ILOTS LEFT | Just to the right of the Main sector, over the fence |
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21 | Délice Choc | 5c+ | 35m | *** | The groove |
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22 | Pépite Haut | 6a | 35m | *** | Green bolts |
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23 | Sandy Kilo | 6a | 35m | *** | ||
24 | Allez Gros | 6a+ | 25m | ** | ||
25 | UP Wall | 6a+ | 36m | ** | ||
26 | Rowan | 6a+ | 35m | ** | ||
27 | Express Haut | 6a+ | 30m | *** | ||
28 | Léa Rico | 6a | 30m | *** | ||
29 | G.D. Gaz | 6a | 30m | *** | ||
30 | Pétain Coup | 6b | 32m | *** | ||
31 | Kipete trop vite chie | 5c | 30m | |||
32 | Rita | 5c | 30m | |||
33 | Kitsos | 5b | 25m | |||
34 | Sacha | 5c | 25m | |||
35 | Telpu | 6b | 40m | |||
40 | SECTOR ILOTS MIDDLE | The third of the sectors after Main and Ilots Left, reached by traversing under these two cliffs |
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41 | 3ème age | 5b | 30m | *** | The left hand slab |
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42 | Ginette | 5b | 30m | *** | ||
43 | Chirlpipi | 5c+ | 30m | *** | ||
44 | Epidixias | 5c | 30m | *** | ||
45 | Pornogeros | 6b | 35m | *** | ||
46 | 1995 | 6b | 30m | *** | Follow the big groove and exit right onto the headwall |
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47 | 1995 extension | 6c | 40m | *** | ||
48 | Cuni Lingugus | 6b+ | 30m | *** | ||
49 | Cumulo Sinus | 6b | 30m | *** | Excellent holds the whole way |
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50 | Prosciutto + Champagne | 6a | 30m | *** | The technical groove |
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51 | O Claire de l'Anus | 6a+ | 32m | ** | ||
52 | Les pros se tätent | 6a+ | 35m | *** | gets easier as you get higher |
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53 | Les copains d'abord | 6a+ | 200m | *** | A multipitch route: 1) 6a 33m; 2) 6a+ 35m; Traverse down and right to reach pitch 3) 6a+ 38m; 4) 5c 35m; 5) 6a 25m. Either abseil down the route "Modeste" (80m rope required) or walk right and round to Ourania |
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54 | Minion | 5c+ | 30m | *** | ||
55 | Jolie Emilie | 5c | 25m | ** | ||
56 | Modeste | 6b+ | 190m | *** | Multipitch : 1) 5b 35m; 2) 6a 25m; 3) 6b+ 25m; 6b 25m then walk left for 20m to 5) 5c 20m; 6) 6a 40m. Descent by abseil down pitches 6, 5, walk, then left of the first 3 pitches. 80m rope required. |
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60 | SECTOR TROIS ILOTS RIGHT | TROIS ILOTS RIGHT. A few minutes to the right of the Middle Sector, and after the multi pitches |
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61 | Eh ma tomme | 6a+ | 30m | The difficulties are at the start and the end |
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62 | L.H.O. | 6b+ | 35m | A tricky first crack and balancy moves higer up |
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63 | Police Twalda | 6b+ | 25m | |||
64 | Crystal Line | 6a | 35m | A classic, marvel at the crystals. Low in the grade except for the first traverse |
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65 | Tétonne pas | 6b | 25m | Low in the grade |
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66 | Gabou | 6b | 25m | |||
67 | Lafete alm | 6a+ | 30m | |||
68 | Queen Coinne | 6b | 30m | |||
69 | LAOTCO | 6b | 40m | |||
70 | Oxéo | 5b | 25m | The ridge left of the gully |
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71 | la raie publique | 6a | 30m | Starts high up the corner / chimney /gully. Reached by climbing Oxeo and then descending to the ledge |
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72 | Bises to Kate | 6a+ | 40m | |||
73 | Ari Cover | 6a+ | 40m | |||
74 | Gast | 6b | 40m | |||
75 | Il posto | 6a+ | 35m | |||
76 | Oh! Dieu | 6a+ | 25m | |||
76e | Oh! Dieu extension | 6b | 45m | |||
78 | Kwad 9 | 6a | 35m | |||
79 | Docteur | 5c+ | 35m | |||
80 | Oh! wi Oh! | 5c | 30m | |||
81 | Balga | 5c+ | 30m | |||
82 | P'tit waso | 5c | 30m | |||
83 | Chiara | 5b | 25m | |||
84 | Boubie | 5c | 30m | |||
85 | P'tit pwason | 5c+ | 30m |