Kalymnos Grande Grotta
Big roofs ! The showpiece of Kalymnos is understandably very popular, and queueing for routes is not uncommon. Lots of stamina and technique required giving inspiring, exposed and often 3D climbing. Gets the sun early afternoon in the Spring and Autumn, later in the summer
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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01 | Massalia | 6b | 100m | *** | Four good pitches that traverse above the Grande Grotta. Descent is by abseil, either by walking from the last pitch a few metres to an abseil point that will take you right over the lip of the Grande Grotta (two 80m ropes required, tie a knot). Or walk 150m further to above Panorama for two 35m abseils. A 70m rope just reaches, again, tie a knot!! 1) 6b. Climb the technical slab. 25m 2) 5c 25m. 3) 5c 25m. 4) 5c 25m. |
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02 | Zenith | 8b+ | 40m | *** | A briliant long hard line up the left hand side of the cave |
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03 | Aegialis | 7c | *** | Not so hard technically, but very sustained. The most photographed climb in the world. |
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04 | Kopalization | 8a+ | 55m | *** | Extension to Aegialis |
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05 | Kopalization Extra | 8b+ | 65m | *** | extension to the extension |
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06 | Zawinal syndrome | 7c+ | 30m | *** | Long, steep and impressive. Be careful of rope drag |
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07 | Aphrodite | 7a+ | 12m | ** | A short technical pitch between Aegialis and DNA. |
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08 | DNA | 7a | 20m | *** | An excellent introduction to the steep routes in the cave. Climb the tufas on big holds, finding as many recovery spots as possible, before a difficult clip of the last bolt before the belay. Classic. |
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09 | DNA extension | 8a+ | 50m | *** | ||
10 | Ivi ole | 7b+ | 20m | *** | A direct on "Ivi" with an interesting dyno |
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11 | Ivi | 7a+ | 20m | *** | Another pumpy jug fest |
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12 | Priapoas | 7c | 37m | *** | Incredible and very impressive. A long three dimensonal adventure through the huge stalactites. Likened to going for a 15 minute run. Pumpy and hard. A 70m rope JUST reaches, tie a knot because if it doesnt you need to panic. |
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13 | Super Priapos | 8a | 55m | *** | extension to Priapos |
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14 | Fun de Chichunne | 8a | 40m | *** | ||
15 | Happy girlfriend | 5c+ | 15m | *** | A small slab and tufa that gives a beautful view of Telendos from the back of the cave |
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17 | Elefanthimmel | 7a | *** | A first 5a pitch leads pleasantly up the slab, then climb the huge roof with equally huge features, and some final hard moves |
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18 | Punto Caramelo | 8a | 30m | *** | Steep! |
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19 | Tufantastic | 7b+ | 40m | *** | Ignore the awful pun in the name, and climb for ever through the stalactites. Careful with the length of your rope |
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20 | Trela | 7a | 40m | *** | A looong pitch through the stalactites. A 70m rope just reaches the ground. Tie a knot |