Kalymnos Kastri

Kastri is an archeological site, which is interesting to visit in its own right. The climbing is in 3 sectors. The left hand sector, Kreissaal, is mostly slabs. The middle and main section has an ancient fortress dating back to the 4th century BC. It contains many excellent routes, both slabs and steep walls. The right hand section, Sophie, is less interesting, but nevertheless has a dozen or so routes, of varying quality. The sun reaches most of the sectors between 11.00 and 12.00, although one or two of the steep walls stay in the shade a little longer.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
100m
Number of routes
50
Faces
South
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
A00 SECTOR

KASTRI LEFT KREISAAL. An area of slabs a few minutes to the left of the main crag

B00 SECTOR

KASTRI MAIN

B01 Kazonis 6a+ 15m ***

An isolated route that starts below and to the left of the ancient wall and follows a hand crack

B02 Cook 5c 30m *
B03 Cook extension 5c+ 45m **
B04 Red Rooster 6a 25m *
B05 Fata 6a 25m **

A prickly slab with good holds, leads to a final wall also with good holds.

B06 Bibou 6a+ 25m ***

Just to the right of, and similar to Fata, but a tiny bit harder.

B07 Enchanted castle 6b 25m ***

Climb up to the centre of the cave to the right of Bibou, bridge out and up, and then continue steeply to the belay. Excellent and unusual climbing.

B08 Principessa Giulia 6c+ 25m Gold

Hard pocket pulling to begin with, then yet more pocket pulling. Superb.

B09 Majestic 7a+ 40m Gold

Start at the lowest point of the buttress and climb directly and strenuously to the top of the crag. Steep, never too hard, but well worth the grade.

B10 Tower staircase 5a 15m *

The ramp to the right of Majestic

B11 Dragon's Lair 6c 22m *

To the right of Tower staircase with a steep finish

B12 Dark corner 6b 25m 0

The arete. Badly bolted

B13 Wasp 5b 20m

Up the cracks

B14 Game over 6b+ 40m **
B15 X-over 6a+ 40m ***
B16 Haramiss 6a+ 30m **
B17 Haramiss extension 6c+ 55m ***
B18 Side cut 6a+ 35m ***
B19 Side cut extension 6c 45m ***
B20 Gotti 7a 30m ***

Scramble up to the base of a grey slab with an overhanging slab above. Excellent moves.

B21 Borni 7b+ 25m **

A steep overhanging wall