Kalymnos Noufaro

A big crag with 7 distinct sectors (referenced A to G here). A bit of everything from steep tufa climbs to easy pocketed slabs. Excellent throughout.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
200m
Number of routes
50
Faces
South West
Sun
The sectors get the sun generally after 1pm
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

Follow the road past Arginonta village for about a kilometre, to park by the goat "pasture". Follow the track and the dots to sector F (Noufaro Main). Follow the path upwards for the higher cliffs. It is also possible to reach these direct by heading for the solitary tree. About 10 to 50 minutes depending on the sector

Kalymnos Noufaro climb topo
Kalymnos Noufaro climb topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
A SECTOR A

SECTOR A EAGLE WALL
A01 Eagle Hotel 7a 135m **

Multi pitch 6c obligatory; 1) 6b+ 35m; 2) 7a 25m; 3) 6c 20m; 4) 6c 20m; 5) 7a 20m; 6) 6c 15m
A02 FreeBird 7b 155m **

Multi pitch 6b+ obligatory: 1) 6a+ 25m; 2) 6b+ 25m; 3) 7b 30m; 4) 6a+ 20m; 5) 6b 25m; 6) 6a 35m
B SECTOR B

SECTOR B MAGIC WALL
B01 Lyttos 6b+ 25m **
B02 Skevos 6c+ 30m ***
B03 Great Albert 6c 25m ***
B03e Great Albert Extension 7a+ 35m **
B05 Black Beauty 7a 35m Gold

A technical finish
B06 Grua 7a 90m **

Multi pitch: 7a 30m; 7a 30m; 6b 30m
B07 Rammstein 7b+ 95m ***

Multi pitch: 7a+ 35m; 7b+ 30m; 6c 30m
B08 Vouros 7b+ 90m ***

Multi pitch: 6c 30m; 7b+ 30m: 6c 30m
B09 Greek Wedding 6a 25m **
B10 Tony 5c 25m **

Higher up to the right
C SECTOR C

SECTOR C NIRVANA
C01 Greek Stallion 6b+ 30m ***
C02 Private Dancer 7a+ 30m **
C03 Nirvana 6c+ 40m Gold

Beautiful, sustained climbing with bolting that will keep you on your toes
C04 Siberian Husky 7a 40m ***
D SECTOR D

SECTOR D UPPER NOUFARO
D01 Good Grip 7c 15m **
D02 Schwert 7b+ 20m **
D03 Bolting Addiction 7c 20m ***
D04 Develop as you are 8a+ 20m ***
D05 Stay as you are 8c 20m ***
D06 Team Gawafes 8b 20m ***
D07 Fibula 8b 20m **
D08 Feel the cold 8c+ 20m ***
D09 Le 7a de Myriam 8b+ 20m ***
D10 Amédé the Stuikerspin 7c 20m ***
D11 Schild 7c 35m **
D12 Myself not a Fish 8a 25m ***
D12e Myself not a Fish extension 8a+ 30m ***
D14 Opal 8b+ 30m Gold
D15 Harnisch 6c+ 35m Gold

The long steep wall has big holds and a strenuous move over the roof. Sustained. Brilliant
D16 Mira 7b 25m **
D17 Kathrin Island 6c+ 20m **

The slab has an awkward step L at half height
D18 Big Back 5c+ 15m **
D19 Revue 6a 30m ***

A long sustained slab
D20 Glaros Bar 6a 30m **
D21 FIS 5c+ 30m **
D22 FES 5b 25m *
F SECTOR F

SECTOR F NOUFARO MAIN
F01 Bolero 6a+ 32m **

A tricky start and even trickier finish
F02 Viavai 6a+ 32m **

a pleasant slab climb
F02a Grand Pa 5c 30m
F03 Buona la prima 7a 20m **

A hard start followed by a few technical moves leads to easier climbing
F04 Naoshi 7b 25m ***

Slab right of Buona
F05 Ho Perso la Bussola 7a+ 30m **

The right hand side of the slab
F06 Gecko's team 7a+ 25m ***

One hard move in the middle, and nice climbing either side
F07 Garbulli 7a+ 25m ***

An excellent sustained route including nice bouldery moves across the wall.
F08 Ericstotle 6a+ 15m *
F09 Spice 6b+ 25m **

Large holds up to and around the roof
F10 Mantis 6c 20m

The steep wall has good holds with hard pulls between them

F11 Kostas vs Sofia 20m ***

8b?
F12 Twist 7c 15m **
F13 Themelio 8a 18m **
F14 Duck Dance 7a+
F16 Chilly 6b+ 20m

A little further to the right up a slab and wall
F17 Aroma 6a 25m