Kalymnos Noufaro
A big crag with 7 distinct sectors (referenced A to G here). A bit of everything from steep tufa climbs to easy pocketed slabs. Excellent throughout.
Follow the road past Arginonta village for about a kilometre, to park by the goat "pasture". Follow the track and the dots to sector F (Noufaro Main). Follow the path upwards for the higher cliffs. It is also possible to reach these direct by heading for the solitary tree. About 10 to 50 minutes depending on the sector
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | SECTOR A | SECTOR A EAGLE WALL |
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| A01 | Eagle Hotel | 7a | 135m | ** | Multi pitch 6c obligatory; 1) 6b+ 35m; 2) 7a 25m; 3) 6c 20m; 4) 6c 20m; 5) 7a 20m; 6) 6c 15m |
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| A02 | FreeBird | 7b | 155m | ** | Multi pitch 6b+ obligatory: 1) 6a+ 25m; 2) 6b+ 25m; 3) 7b 30m; 4) 6a+ 20m; 5) 6b 25m; 6) 6a 35m |
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| B | SECTOR B | SECTOR B MAGIC WALL |
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| B01 | Lyttos | 6b+ | 25m | ** | |
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| B02 | Skevos | 6c+ | 30m | *** | |
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| B03 | Great Albert | 6c | 25m | *** | |
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| B03e | Great Albert Extension | 7a+ | 35m | ** | |
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| B05 | Black Beauty | 7a | 35m | Gold | A technical finish |
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| B06 | Grua | 7a | 90m | ** | Multi pitch: 7a 30m; 7a 30m; 6b 30m |
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| B07 | Rammstein | 7b+ | 95m | *** | Multi pitch: 7a+ 35m; 7b+ 30m; 6c 30m |
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| B08 | Vouros | 7b+ | 90m | *** | Multi pitch: 6c 30m; 7b+ 30m: 6c 30m |
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| B09 | Greek Wedding | 6a | 25m | ** | |
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| B10 | Tony | 5c | 25m | ** | Higher up to the right |
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| C | SECTOR C | SECTOR C NIRVANA |
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| C01 | Greek Stallion | 6b+ | 30m | *** | |
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| C02 | Private Dancer | 7a+ | 30m | ** | |
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| C03 | Nirvana | 6c+ | 40m | Gold | Beautiful, sustained climbing with bolting that will keep you on your toes |
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| C04 | Siberian Husky | 7a | 40m | *** | |
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| D | SECTOR D | SECTOR D UPPER NOUFARO |
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| D01 | Good Grip | 7c | 15m | ** | |
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| D02 | Schwert | 7b+ | 20m | ** | |
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| D03 | Bolting Addiction | 7c | 20m | *** | |
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| D04 | Develop as you are | 8a+ | 20m | *** | |
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| D05 | Stay as you are | 8c | 20m | *** | |
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| D06 | Team Gawafes | 8b | 20m | *** | |
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| D07 | Fibula | 8b | 20m | ** | |
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| D08 | Feel the cold | 8c+ | 20m | *** | |
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| D09 | Le 7a de Myriam | 8b+ | 20m | *** | |
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| D10 | Amédé the Stuikerspin | 7c | 20m | *** | |
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| D11 | Schild | 7c | 35m | ** | |
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| D12 | Myself not a Fish | 8a | 25m | *** | |
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| D12e | Myself not a Fish extension | 8a+ | 30m | *** | |
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| D14 | Opal | 8b+ | 30m | Gold | |
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| D15 | Harnisch | 6c+ | 35m | Gold | The long steep wall has big holds and a strenuous move over the roof. Sustained. Brilliant |
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| D16 | Mira | 7b | 25m | ** | |
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| D17 | Kathrin Island | 6c+ | 20m | ** | The slab has an awkward step L at half height |
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| D18 | Big Back | 5c+ | 15m | ** | |
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| D19 | Revue | 6a | 30m | *** | A long sustained slab |
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| D20 | Glaros Bar | 6a | 30m | ** | |
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| D21 | FIS | 5c+ | 30m | ** | |
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| D22 | FES | 5b | 25m | * | |
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| F | SECTOR F | SECTOR F NOUFARO MAIN |
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| F01 | Bolero | 6a+ | 32m | ** | A tricky start and even trickier finish |
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| F02 | Viavai | 6a+ | 32m | ** | a pleasant slab climb |
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| F02a | Grand Pa | 5c | 30m | |
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| F03 | Buona la prima | 7a | 20m | ** | A hard start followed by a few technical moves leads to easier climbing |
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| F04 | Naoshi | 7b | 25m | *** | Slab right of Buona |
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| F05 | Ho Perso la Bussola | 7a+ | 30m | ** | The right hand side of the slab |
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| F06 | Gecko's team | 7a+ | 25m | *** | One hard move in the middle, and nice climbing either side |
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| F07 | Garbulli | 7a+ | 25m | *** | An excellent sustained route including nice bouldery moves across the wall. |
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| F08 | Ericstotle | 6a+ | 15m | * | |
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| F09 | Spice | 6b+ | 25m | ** | Large holds up to and around the roof |
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| F10 | Mantis | 6c | 20m | The steep wall has good holds with hard pulls between them |
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| F11 | Kostas vs Sofia | 20m | *** | 8b? |
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| F11a | Eye of the cyclops | 8a | Wall left of Twist |
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| F12 | Twist | 7c | 15m | ** | |
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| F12a | Harry Bolter | 7c+ | Between Twist and Themelio |
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| F13 | Themelio | 8a | 18m | ** | |
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| F13a | Amazonia | 7c | |
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| F14 | Duck Dance | 7a+ | |
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| F15 | Surumoni | 6c+ | 25m | About 50m further right is a left trending weakness. Niv climbing that gets progressively easier |
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| F16 | Chilly | 6b+ | 20m | A slab and wall |
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| F16a | Alkyone | 6c | 25m | The rib left of Aroma |
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| F17 | Aroma | 6a | 25m | |
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| F18 | Tango | 6c | 20m | 0 | A bit further to the right is a buttress with a prominent corner (Mambo). Tango is on the left, but is not recommended. |
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| F19 | Rock n Roll | 6c+ | 25m | ** | The technical wall is not easy, high in the grade |
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| F20 | Mambo | 6b+ | 25m | *** | The slab and prominent corner is intimidating |
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| F21 | Salsa | 6c+ | 20m | |
