Kalymnos Poets

The nearest climbing to Masouri, and thus very popular. Lots of excellent routes on superb rock in all grades.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
100m
Number of routes
100
Faces
West
Sun
Gets the sun after 1pm
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
A01 Un Culte 6a+ 35m
A02 Mario Net 6b 35m
A03 Bar Bar 6a 35m
A04 Lord Dur 6a+ 42m
A05 Sadi Kwa 6a+ 42m

Tie a knot in the end of your rope

A06 Kiss Bulle 5c 30m
A07 Hip Hip Hip 5a 20m
A08 Houra 4c 20m
A09 Lara Clette 5c 30m
A10 Lara Clette extension 6a+ 55m
A11 Pomel 6a 30m
A12 SECTOR COEUR D'ARMEOS

The bowl shaped cliff between IANNIS and POET'S MAIN. Routes A13 to A23 are reached by a short scramble

A13 Scrogneugneu 6b+ 40m **

Takes the left hand side of Coeur, after a short scramble to the base

A14 Snouf 6c 35m **
A15 Reste Haut de Coeur 6b+ 32m ***
A16 Boubou 6b 32m ***
A17 Y' a rien au dessus 6b+ 32m ***
A18 Y'a rien au dessus right hand 6b+ 32m ***

Start as for y'a rien and move right

A19 Patrick and Bambou 6a+ 20m *
A20 Patrick and Bambou extension 7a+ 40m *
A21 Extra tes restes 6c+ 40m **

Climbs the right side of the cave with a difficult move over the lip followed by more delicate climbing

A22 Dream thym 6b+ 40m **
A23 Mytos 6b 42m **

The route furthest right after the scramble

A24 Propolis 6a 70m ***

A lovely two pitch route going all the way to the top of the crag. Starts below and to the right of the bowl. The first pitch is a bit over 35m (6a), the second about 35m (5c+).

A25 A tes souhaites 5c+ 30m **

Just to the right of Propolis

A26 Eté Indien 6a 30m **

Just right again

B00 SECTOR MAIN CLIFF, LHS

POETS MAIN CLIFF, LHS

B01 Minos 7a 50m ***

About 50m to the right of Propolis, an easy scramble (3) leads to a lower off (belay) and above it the main pitch (7a)

B02 Mabrouk 6c 40m

The slab right of Minos

B03 Kavafis 6b+ 50m ***

A few metres right of Minos, a 30m pitch up the obvious flake (6b+)

B04 Pepe Gilles 6c 55m ***

Two parts 6a+; 6c with the lower off before the extension just to the R of the bottom of the flake of Kavafis

B06 Azul 6c 40m ***

A long route that can be split at half height (6c, 6b). If you do it as one pitch, 20 quickdraws required, and some of the lower ones need removing to reduce drag

B08e Bon Voyage 6c+ 55m

Another "two pitcher" (6b+; 6c+) with an excellent 2nd part. It uses the lower off of Nathan Patro which is just below the roof

B10 Nathan Patro 6c 40m

Climbs right of the white scar to a lower off below the roof

B11 Keyra 6b+ 40m ***
B11e Keyra 7b 55m ***

The first pitch is 40m 6b+, the 2nd 55m in total, 7b

B13 Damocles 6a+ 30m **

renamed Wala Wala

B13e The Hideaway 7c+ 50m

The extension to Damocles, or is it Wala Wala? Either way an "out there" pitch up the overhanging arete

B15 Harry Hole 6b 30m **

Starts up a short corner then more easily to a lower off under the overhanging corner

B15e Harry Hole extension 7b+ 45m Gold

Climbs the overhanging corner

B17 Happy Wife 6c 15m ***

Always important. Starts up Harry Hole and moves right to climb the wall just right

B18 Rolling Stone 7a+ 20m ***

Starts up Harry Hole and makes a traverse R to the roof where a difficult move leads to easier ground

B19 Ca bruine sec 7c 15m

Direct through the two roofs to the lower off of Rolling Stone

B20 Scala Dream 6c+ 30m **

Starts right of Ca bruine, goes over the small roof, trends left and goes all the way to the larger roof

B21 Captain Fantastic 7c+ 42m Gold

the extension to Scala Dream

B24a SECTOR MAIN CLIFF RHS

POETS MAIN CLIFF

B25 Charles Bukowski 6c+ 22m *
B26 Delicatessen 6b+ 30m ***
B27 Iris 6b+ 30m **
B28 Saxonia 6a 30m **
B30 The Homeric Verses 6a+ 30m **
B32 Quando Tramonta Il Sol 6a 30m ***
B33 Karoubalo 6b 25m **

Broccoli and a bulge

B35 Dryads 6b 25m **
B36 Mustass 6a 25m ***

A nice introduction to tufa climbing

B37 Styx 6a+ 25m ***
B38 Oreads 6a+ 25m ***
B39 Palamas 6c 30m **
B40 Solomos 6c+ 35m ***
B41 Reins Beaux 6c 35m ***
B42 O'Brothers 6b+ 20m ***
B43 Omero 6c 22m ***
B44 Sapfo 6a+ 22m ***
B45 Pindaros 5a 15m *
B47 Alceo 6c 25m **
B48 Licimnio 6c 25m ***

Technical slab

B50 Alcman 6c 30m **

sustained, prickly, fingery climbing

B51 Anacreonte 6a 22m ***

pleasant climbing up the groove

B53 Ibria 6b+ 25m ***

fingery climbing, especially where it steepens

B54 Hipponax 7a+ 25m ***

The wall just to the right of Ibria. Tricky, technical climbing, but only for a short section

B55 Ione 7a+ 25m *
B56 Poets' corner 5c 20m **

The obvious corner

C00 SECTOR POETS RIGHT

Just round the corner to the right of POETS MAIN

C01 Oyzo 5c+ 25m **
C02 Mpyra 6b 25m ***
C03 Metaxas 6a+ 25m ***
C04 MAO 5c+ 25m ***
C05 Il Gino 5c 30m **
C06 Kalispera 6a+ 20m *
C07 Kalimera 6c 20m *
C08 Disobbedisco 6c+ 20m ***
C09 Alsace 6b+ 20m **
C10 E'Tardi 6a+ 15m **
D00 SECTOR WHITE SHARK

5 minutes up to the right of POET'S MAIN

E00 SECTOR ZEUS

ZEUS is reached by traversing 100m from the right hand end of Poets to a fence with a couple of gates that lead into a fig grove with sheep and goats in it

E01 Mad Dad 6c+ 30m ***
E02 Callisto 6c+ 30m ***
E03 Rocklandis 7b 30m ***
E04 Ganymede 6b 30m **
E05 Isabel 6c 36m **

A long route to the left of James Blonde. 70m rope needed

E06 Blonde, James Blonde 6c 25m ***
E07 Blonde 7c 35m ***

The extension to James Blonde

E08 La Mouette Generereuse 6b+ 20m **
E09 Kalyfornification 6b+ 25m ***
E10 Pipe cleaner 7b 30m ***

The big long tufa, sustained balancy and technical climbing until the final clip at the lower off. In fact especially the final clip

E11 Wild Sport 7c+ 32m ***
E12 Dura Lex 7b 25m ***

An easy start, a boulder problem move and an absorbing finish