Kalymnos Sikati Cave

An incredible geological feature on the north side of the island. Sikati Cave is a huge hole in the ground 100m tall and 100m wide situated above a beautiful beach. Most of the climbing is in the upper grades, very steep on tufa formations. Except for a few warm ups, the routes stay in the shade all day. Because the cave is sheltered, the holds can be greasy on warm or humid days when there is no wind, and is best avoided in these conditions. 

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
200m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
7a - 8c
Faces
North
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 BMW 6b 15m *

A short introductory climb up the orange wall. Hard for the grade

02 B69 5c 15m *

Slab climb left of the entrance / exit climb

03 Exit 4a 15m *

The descent route at the north east side of the cave with a fixed rope

04 Abrazis 5c+ 20m ***

To the right of the entrance / exit route is a wall with 3 short climbs that finish near the top of the cave. This is the left hand one

07 El choco loco 6b+ 20m **

The routes start to get more interesting here. This is at the left hand wall, on the wings of the ampitheatre

08 El chupodromo 6c+ 25m **

Just right of El choco loco

09 Les Pirates de Sikati 7a+ 30m ***

Climbs the black streak

09a Les Pirates de Sikati plus 8a 45m ***

The left hand extension to Pirates climbs the grey wall above that route

09b Des dents de la mer 7c 40m ***

The right hand extension to Pirates traverses wildly across the lip. Good bolts to begin, not many afterwards.

10 Jaws 8c 50m Gold

A mega pitch that starts at the back of the left hand cave and finishes at the top of the crag. Needless to say, long and hard.

11 Mort aux chévres 7a+ 30m ***

A beautiful climb up the overhanging tufas left of the main cave

11a Mort aux chévres extension 8a+ 60m ***
12 Morgan 7b+ 25m ***

The steep line of tufas has a sitting rest point before the final tricky moves

12a Adam 7c 32m ***

The first extension to Morgan continues up the tufas

12b Morgan Adam est une Andalouse 8a 75m ***

The second extension is a mega pitch. Use two ropes, clipping one for the first two pitches, and the second for the top pitch.

13 Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas 7c+ 30m ***

Another mega steep tufa line . . .

13a Por una Sociedad con ... extension 1 8b 60m Gold

. . . that gets steeper on the first extension . . .

13b Por una Sociedad con . . . extension 2 8b+ 75m ***

. . . and longer and harder on the 2nd extension. Use two ropes, one for the first two pitches, and one for the third.

14 Les arts du vide 8b 40m Gold

The long single tufa

15 Lolita 7a 25m ***

The tough tufa has spaced bolts

15a Super Lolita 7c+ 45m ***

The extension to Lolita has a hard finish

16 Kalyrock.com 7c 70m **

A three pitch route. 1) 7a 25m; 2) 7b+22m; 3) 7c 22m.

17 Little Bulbos 7c+ 35m ***
18 Armata Sikati 7b 35m ***
18a Armata Sikati extension 7b+ 50m ***

More of the same, just a touch harder

19 Laurent...y'a quelqu'un 7c 40m ***

Yet more classic climbing

20 Ou est l'équipe 7b 25m ***

A hard finish

21 Dropzone 6c 25m ***
22 Happy boyfriend 6a+ 20m **

On the right side of the cave, a good warm up route,steep but on good holds and pockets.

23 Body buldeuse 7b+ 20m ***
24 Kontrato 7a+ 20m **

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
05 Adini 25m

The corner is not bolted, about F5c