Kalymnos Sikati Cave
An incredible geological feature on the north side of the island. Sikati Cave is a huge hole in the ground 100m tall and 100m wide situated above a beautiful beach. Most of the climbing is in the upper grades, very steep on tufa formations. Except for a few warm ups, the routes stay in the shade all day. Because the cave is sheltered, the holds can be greasy on warm or humid days when there is no wind, and is best avoided in these conditions.
Sport and bolted routes
|Topo Ref||Route||Sport Grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
A short introductory climb up the orange wall. Hard for the grade
Slab climb left of the entrance / exit climb
The descent route at the north east side of the cave with a fixed rope
To the right of the entrance / exit route is a wall with 3 short climbs that finish near the top of the cave. This is the left hand one
|07||El choco loco||6b+||20m||**||
The routes start to get more interesting here. This is at the left hand wall, on the wings of the ampitheatre
Just right of El choco loco
|09||Les Pirates de Sikati||7a+||30m||***||
Climbs the black streak
|09a||Les Pirates de Sikati plus||8a||45m||***||
The left hand extension to Pirates climbs the grey wall above that route
|09b||Des dents de la mer||7c||40m||***||
The right hand extension to Pirates traverses wildly across the lip. Good bolts to begin, not many afterwards.
A mega pitch that starts at the back of the left hand cave and finishes at the top of the crag. Needless to say, long and hard.
|11||Mort aux chévres||7a+||30m||***||
A beautiful climb up the overhanging tufas left of the main cave
|11a||Mort aux chévres extension||8a+||60m||***|
The steep line of tufas has a sitting rest point before the final tricky moves
The first extension to Morgan continues up the tufas
|12b||Morgan Adam est une Andalouse||8a||75m||***||
The second extension is a mega pitch. Use two ropes, clipping one for the first two pitches, and the second for the top pitch.
|13||Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas||7c+||30m||***||
Another mega steep tufa line . . .
|13a||Por una Sociedad con ... extension 1||8b||60m||Gold||
. . . that gets steeper on the first extension . . .
|13b||Por una Sociedad con . . . extension 2||8b+||75m||***||
. . . and longer and harder on the 2nd extension. Use two ropes, one for the first two pitches, and one for the third.
|14||Les arts du vide||8b||40m||Gold||
The long single tufa
The tough tufa has spaced bolts
The extension to Lolita has a hard finish
A three pitch route. 1) 7a 25m; 2) 7b+22m; 3) 7c 22m.
|18a||Armata Sikati extension||7b+||50m||***||
More of the same, just a touch harder
Yet more classic climbing
|20||Ou est l'équipe||7b||25m||***||
A hard finish
On the right side of the cave, a good warm up route,steep but on good holds and pockets.