Kalymnos Spartan Wall and Afternoon

The crags left of Grande Grotta are perfect for climbing in the Afternoon, they do not get the sun until about 4pm. At their left hand side is the impressive white Spartan Wall, and lower down nearer Grande Grotta the sector Afternoon. Both have excellent routes, mostly steep walls and lower grade slabs.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
250m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
4c - 8c
Faces
East
Sun
Stays in the shade until about 4pm
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Tales of Greek Heroes 6b+ 40m

At the left hand end of Spartan Wall, opposite Spartacus

02 The Siege of Thermopylae 6c+ 35m
03 Leonidas 7a+ 35m
04 The Shield 7b+ 30m
05 Lucifer's Hammer 6c 30m
06 Hippolyta's Belt 6c+ 30m
07 Xerxes 6c+ 35m
08 Spasspartour 6b 45m

Has a lower off in the middle, possible as one long pitch

09 Yanap 7b 50m
10 Probléme mineur 6b 32m
11 Kurva 7a 38m
11e Kurva extension 7b 42m
13 Chocolate Girl Lollipop 6a 20m
14 Hollywood Wax 5b 20m
15 Layo and Bushwacka 5c 20m

Climbs the short broken pillar a few metres left of the cave

16 Broken Souls 7c 30m

This and the next two routes start from the ledge above Layo. Belay from there

17 The Poison 7c+ 30m

Starts as for Broken and moves right

18 Fudoshin 7c+ 30m
19 Spartakiada 6c+ 25m
19e Spartakiada extension 7b+ 45m
20 Harlem Nights 7b+ 15m

Follows the left edge of the cave. One hard move

21 The Beginning at the End 7b+ 15m

The right side of the cave has a bouldery start. There is a very hard (9a+) unfinished extension

22 Titanrope 8c+ 65m

An impressive, long and hard route

23 Hibiscus Market 6a 25m

The first of a collection of slab routes that lead to the top of the grey apron

23e Hibiscus Market extension 8b+ 55m
24 Yo-Yo 5c 30m
25 Poupakis 4c 20m
25e The Path to Deliverance 7c+ 20m

Belay from the cave

26 Dulces Suenos 5a 20m
26e Spartan Wall 8a+ 20m

The big white wall. Technical. Belay from the cave

27 Tigryonak 5b 35m
28 Dimarhos 5a 35m
29 Insomnia 5c 40m
29e Ojos de Brujo 8a 20m

The 2nd pitch to Insomnia is a touch harder

30 Strange Little Girl 4c 15m
30e Motyka Jawa 6c+ 45m

The excellent extension to Strange Little Girl

31 Megaburger 4c 20m
32 Organizer 4b 20m
33 Finger Piercing 4c 20m
33e Spartan Junior 7c 35m

The extension to Finger Piercing

34 Energy 4 May 2000 5b 20m
35 To Deftero Moru Mou 5c+ 20m
35e Butcher of Baragwanath 7b+ 40m

Extension to Deftero

36 Origano 5c 20m
37 Nonno Ringo 5c 18m
38 L'amico Ralph 5c 20m
38e Beta 7b+ 35m

The excellent extension to L'amico. Best to belay from the cave

39 L'Uomo che Non Credeva 6b 20m
40 Kalo Taxidi 6a+ 20m **

A delicate slab with a tricky move

40e Dinosaur Junior 7b 30m ***

The extension to Kalo Taxidi, a superb tufa with a hard start (belay from the ledge) and a pumpy finish

41 Blu 6a 20m
42 Claire 6c 20m
43 Bye bye Doc 6c 25m
44 Jana's kitchen 6b 25m ***

The nice groove, tricky at the top

45 Asclepius 6c 25m
46 Panacea 6c 22m
47 Swiss Baby 6a+ 25m
48 Tsopanakos 6a 20m

Also possible to continue for a few metres past the first lower off to a 2nd lower off (6a+)

49 My Long Holiday 6c 25m