Kalymnos Stankill and Ivory Tower

The two sectors Stankill and Ivory Tower are probably the quietest in the Poets / Grande Grotta area, the slightly longer walk thinning the crowds a bit. The climbing is mostly on vertical walls and has many worthwhile routes on both sharp grey limestone as well as the more slippy orange.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
200m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5a - 8a
Faces
South West
Sun
Stankill stays in the shade until about 1pm, Ivory Tower until 3.30pm
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR STANKILL

STANKILL the recessed buttress to the right of Panorama

01 Titan 6a+ 25m

The left hand of 3 climbs left of the String gully

02 Duo 6a+ 25m

Same lower off as Titan

03 Stankill 6a+ 25m **
04 String 5a 25m

Up the gully, then rightwards up the chimney to the lower off

05 Krackholy 7c 45m

The left hand extension to String has a hard finish

06 Lyrix 7b 45m

The right hand extension to String is easier and better than its neighbour

07 Zack 7a 25m

Start up String and then contine direct to the lower off. Sharp.

08 Plagnolis 6c+ 35m

branches right out of Zack

09 Tonic 6c 25m **
10 Noynoy 6b 25m **
11 Sibylle 5a 30m

This and the next 3 routes are on the slab under the conspicuous roof between Stankill and Ivory Tower

12 Hugox 5c 25m

Excellent sustained slab climbing, 

13 Paulix 5c+ 25m
14 Bobodo 6a 25m

A bit squeezed but worthwhile

15 Gunpowder plot 6b+ 25m **
15e Gunpowder plot extension 6c 40m
16 Paparazzi 6c 25m
17 Zaros 6b 35m

hard moves to, and over the bulge

17e Zaros extension 6b 40m

slightly easier so you might as well carry on . . .

17r Stelios 6a+ 40m

A long route to the right of Zaros. Spaced bolts but an excellent route

18 Justice is its own reward 6b+ 20m slabby
19 Fainéantdertal 8a+ 30m
20 La flemme olympique 7b+ 30m
21 Perskindol 6b 30m

Just to the right of Flemme Olmypique, an excellent route with good holds.

22 Aypa 6c 30m Just right again, excellent
22z SECTOR IVORY TOWER

IVORY TOWER. The large buttress with the white tower on its right and a triangular overhang on its left

23 Schnügu 6b 20m Climbs up to the large overhang at the left hand side of the Ivory Tower buttress
24 Am Abgrung 6a+ 20m
25 Attiki 6a+ 20m same lower off as Am Abgrung, but starting to the right
26 Happiness 6c 30m slightly spaced bolts
26e Happiness extension 7b+ 35m
27 Bloc volant 6b 20m
28 Sidewinder 6c+ 30m Climb up to the traverse under, then over the roof
29 Sunrise part 1 7a 27m *** A good route with a boulder problem at the end
29e Sunrise extension 7c+ 40m An even harder boulder problem
30 Café part 1 7a+ 27m *** A sharp slab
30e Café extension 7c+ 40m
31 Anaphylactic Shock 7c+ 35m Excellent climbing up tufas and pockets
32 Lactic shock 7c 35m The same start as Anaphylactic, but make pumpy moves right at half height
33 The Craic 7b+ 35m A great line with a powerful move to reach the 1st hole. Harder when humid
34 Poker Face 5c 20m The groove
35 Arthur 5c+ 20m
36 Deletime 5c 20m
36e The Silent Way 7c+ 50m The extensiom to Deletime up the obvious overhanging groove
37 Dream Line 7b 20m A mantelshelf crux. Move right and back left to reach the lower-off
37e Dream Line extension 7c 30m There is an unclimbed extension to this extension
38 Ivory Tower 7b 20m Two pitches. Neither are often climbed despite being excellent and the name of the crag
38e Ivory Tower pitch 2 8a 20m
39 Ultimo Bucco 6b+ 25m The flake
39e Fuga da Guy 6c+ 55m The extension to UIltimo. There is an alternative first pitch (6a) that starts to the right ofthe small cave
50 SECTOR

SETTLE NANI

The spur of rock between Ivory tower and Kalydna has a few nice slab climbs

51 Cucciolo 5b 20m
52 Mammolo 5c 20m
53 Eolo 5a 20m
54 Dotto 5b 25m

One hard move low down

55 Brontolo 5b
56 Pisolo 6a 20m
57 Gongolo 6b 20m

Crags in this region: