Kalymnos Stankill and Ivory Tower
The two sectors Stankill and Ivory Tower are probably the quietest in the Poets / Grande Grotta area, the slightly longer walk thinning the crowds a bit. The climbing is mostly on vertical walls and has many worthwhile routes on both sharp grey limestone as well as the more slippy orange.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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00 | SECTOR STANKILL | STANKILL the recessed buttress to the right of Panorama |
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01 | Titan | 6a+ | 25m | The left hand of 3 climbs left of the String gully |
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02 | Duo | 6a+ | 25m | Same lower off as Titan |
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03 | Stankill | 6a+ | 25m | ** | ||
04 | String | 5a | 25m | Up the gully, then rightwards up the chimney to the lower off |
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05 | Krackholy | 7c | 45m | The left hand extension to String has a hard finish |
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06 | Lyrix | 7b | 45m | The right hand extension to String is easier and better than its neighbour |
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07 | Zack | 7a | 25m | Start up String and then contine direct to the lower off. Sharp. |
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08 | Plagnolis | 6c+ | 35m | branches right out of Zack |
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09 | Tonic | 6c | 25m | ** | ||
10 | Noynoy | 6b | 25m | ** | ||
11 | Sibylle | 5a | 30m | This and the next 3 routes are on the slab under the conspicuous roof between Stankill and Ivory Tower |
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12 | Hugox | 5c | 25m | Excellent sustained slab climbing, |
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13 | Paulix | 5c+ | 25m | |||
14 | Bobodo | 6a | 25m | A bit squeezed but worthwhile |
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15 | Gunpowder plot | 6b+ | 25m | ** | ||
15e | Gunpowder plot extension | 6c | 40m | |||
16 | Paparazzi | 6c | 25m | |||
17 | Zaros | 6b | 35m | hard moves to, and over the bulge |
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17e | Zaros extension | 6b | 40m | slightly easier so you might as well carry on . . . |
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17r | Stelios | 6a+ | 40m | A long route to the right of Zaros. Spaced bolts but an excellent route |
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18 | Justice is its own reward | 6b+ | 20m | slabby | ||
19 | Fainéantdertal | 8a+ | 30m | |||
20 | La flemme olympique | 7b+ | 30m | |||
21 | Perskindol | 6b | 30m | Just to the right of Flemme Olmypique, an excellent route with good holds. |
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22 | Aypa | 6c | 30m | Just right again, excellent | ||
22z | SECTOR IVORY TOWER | IVORY TOWER. The large buttress with the white tower on its right and a triangular overhang on its left |
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23 | Schnügu | 6b | 20m | Climbs up to the large overhang at the left hand side of the Ivory Tower buttress | ||
24 | Am Abgrung | 6a+ | 20m | |||
25 | Attiki | 6a+ | 20m | same lower off as Am Abgrung, but starting to the right | ||
26 | Happiness | 6c | 30m | slightly spaced bolts | ||
26e | Happiness extension | 7b+ | 35m | |||
27 | Bloc volant | 6b | 20m | |||
28 | Sidewinder | 6c+ | 30m | Climb up to the traverse under, then over the roof | ||
29 | Sunrise part 1 | 7a | 27m | *** | A good route with a boulder problem at the end | |
29e | Sunrise extension | 7c+ | 40m | An even harder boulder problem | ||
30 | Café part 1 | 7a+ | 27m | *** | A sharp slab | |
30e | Café extension | 7c+ | 40m | |||
31 | Anaphylactic Shock | 7c+ | 35m | Excellent climbing up tufas and pockets | ||
32 | Lactic shock | 7c | 35m | The same start as Anaphylactic, but make pumpy moves right at half height | ||
33 | The Craic | 7b+ | 35m | A great line with a powerful move to reach the 1st hole. Harder when humid | ||
34 | Poker Face | 5c | 20m | The groove | ||
35 | Arthur | 5c+ | 20m | |||
36 | Deletime | 5c | 20m | |||
36e | The Silent Way | 7c+ | 50m | The extensiom to Deletime up the obvious overhanging groove | ||
37 | Dream Line | 7b | 20m | A mantelshelf crux. Move right and back left to reach the lower-off | ||
37e | Dream Line extension | 7c | 30m | There is an unclimbed extension to this extension | ||
38 | Ivory Tower | 7b | 20m | Two pitches. Neither are often climbed despite being excellent and the name of the crag | ||
38e | Ivory Tower pitch 2 | 8a | 20m | |||
39 | Ultimo Bucco | 6b+ | 25m | The flake | ||
39e | Fuga da Guy | 6c+ | 55m | The extension to UIltimo. There is an alternative first pitch (6a) that starts to the right ofthe small cave | ||
50 | SECTOR | SETTLE NANI The spur of rock between Ivory tower and Kalydna has a few nice slab climbs |
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51 | Cucciolo | 5b | 20m | |||
52 | Mammolo | 5c | 20m | |||
53 | Eolo | 5a | 20m | |||
54 | Dotto | 5b | 25m | One hard move low down |
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55 | Brontolo | 5b | ||||
56 | Pisolo | 6a | 20m | |||
57 | Gongolo | 6b | 20m |