Kalymnos Styx
Sheltered and south facing, the main part of Styx is a sun trap and thus a good crag for the winter months. That said the sun does not reach the SW facing walls until 12.30, and here can be pleasant in spring and autumn. It has beautiful views over the bay of Emporios, which offers welcome swimming and lunch in the warmer months. The rock is often sharp. Guillot corner is a classic of the grade.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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00 | SECTOR OLIVE | 50 to 100m left of the main buttresses is a smaller sector with several routes mostly between 6a and 6c on sharp rock |
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01 | Charly's cat | 6a | 25m | * | The left hand line. Sharp |
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02 | Olive tree | 6a | 25m | ** | same finish as Charly's cat |
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03 | Meckerfitze | 6b | 25m | |||
04 | SFH | 6b+ | 25m | |||
05 | Kalite | 6c+ | 25m | |||
06 | Aquila | 6c | 25m | |||
07 | Babele | 6c+ | 30m | |||
08 | Oil | 7a+ | 20m | |||
09 | Crazy Dream | 5a | 15m | |||
10 | Fix | 7b | 15m | |||
11 | Stamina | 6c | 25m | ** | The pocketed red wall at the right hand side of this sector |
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11a | MAIN SECTOR | 100m left of Guillot corner, where the approach path arrives |
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12 | Tönerner Krug | 6a | 25m | *** | The exposed left arete of the cave |
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13 | String secret | 6b | 20m | ** | Bridge up the obvious red corner |
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14 | Killbit | 6c | 20m | ** | Climb large holds and tufas to meet String Secret |
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15 | Praline | 6b+ | 15m | *** | ||
16 | Zugabe | 6b | 15m | *** | ||
17 | Golden Top | 6a+ | 22m | * | ||
18 | Litlost | 6b | 25m | * | Wall and overhang |
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19 | Paulina | 6c | 20m | * | ||
20 | Lene | 6b | 25m | * | ||
21 | Johanna | 6a | 20m | * | ||
22 | Stachet Schwein | 6a+ | 20m | 0 | Not recommended |
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23 | Bunker | 6a+ | 25m | ** | ||
24 | The Deal | 6b+ | 31m | *** | Climb the slab to reach the small overhang. Same finish as the next route |
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25 | Team no Werk | 6c | 30m | ** | ||
26 | Nissim | 6b+ | 25m | *** | From the ledge climb the wall to the overhang |
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27 | Nissim extension | 6c | 35m | ** | ||
28 | Boleskine house | 6b+ | 30m | * | ||
29 | Boleskine house extension | 7a | 36m | *** | ||
30 | Zolotas | 6b | 30m | ** | ||
31 | Zolotas extension | 7a | 36m | ** | ||
32 | Silbermond | 6c | 25m | * | ||
33 | Innuendo | 6c | 25m | ** | ||
34 | Waiting for the Spring | 6b | 22m | ** | ||
35 | Leningrad cowboys go America | 6b | 22m | ** | ||
36 | For kids | 4a | 20m | *** | The well bolted pillar is suitable for kids |
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37 | Hades | 6c | 20m | * | ||
38 | Medesa | 7b | 15m | ** | ||
38a | STYX MAIN SECTOR (RIGHT) | The routes right of the tree |
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39 | Kapilotracté | 6c+ | 15m | ** | Just right of the tree |
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40 | Dragoner | 6b | 20m | *** | Steep and sustained |
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41 | Pablo-Luca | 6a | 20m | ** | Same finish as Dragoner |
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42 | Troll | 6a+ | 15m | * | ||
43 | Portokali Taxidi | 6c | 25m | Gold | Great climbing up the orange wall |
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44 | Otavi | 6b | 25m | ** | ||
45 | Poco Loco | 6a+ | 20m | * | Steep with good, sharp holds |
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46 | Harmonie | 5c | 20m | * | Big holds, sharp and tough for the grade |
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46 | Klotho (Do you remember) | 5c+ | 20m | ** | ||
48 | Lachesis (Sixpack) | 5c | 20m | *** | ||
49 | Atropos (Keep on smiling) | 6a | 20m | ** | ||
50 | SECTOR FRANCOIS GUILLOT | The impressive wall with a large 50m corner (Guillot corner), where the path meets the crag |
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51 | Ziegenstall | 7c | 65m | ** | Three pitches 7a; 7b; 7c |
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52 | Antonella | 7b | 40m | * | Hard moves round the overhang |
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53 | Coloria | 6c | 30m | * | shares the lower off with the next route |
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54 | I love Kalymnos | 6b | 30m | ** | Rough, smooth rough rock, quite sustained in the middle. |
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55 | Guillot corner | 5c+ | 35m | *** | The excellent bridging corner is climbed on sharp rock and blobs |
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56 | Guillot extension | 5c+ | 50m | *** | The second part of the corner. Can be done as one long pitch |
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57 | Music of rock | 6b+ | 25m | ** | Start up the corner and move right to climb tufas. Shares the lower off with the next two routes |
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58 | Tiny Tina | 6b+ | 25m | *** | A hard, sharp start |
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59 | Loutraki | 6c+ | 25m | ** | ||
60 | Ivan is grand | 7a+ | 25m | *** | Starts up Loutraki and trends right |
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61 | Warm Bier | 7a+ | 25m | The red corner and grey wall |
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62 | Select | 6c | 30m | * | Sharp! |
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63 | Andros | 6a | 30m | * | The chimney |
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63a | SECTOR EMPORIOS PORTAL | The huge cave goes all the way to the top and has some impressive routes |
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64 | Circus | 7a+ | 35m | ** | The wall just left of the huge cave |
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65 | Ingo | 6b | 25m | ** | The left hand route inside the cave |
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66 | No exit | 6a+ | 45m | ** | Stops just before the top of the big cave. Note the length, tie a knot in the end of your rope. |
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67 | Metro | 6a+ | 47m | ** | The third route inside the cave. Note the length, tie a knot in the end of your rope. |
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68 | Olivenbaum | 6b+ | 25m | ** | Above the beautiful old olive tree on the right hand side of the cave |
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69 | Olivenbaum extension | 6c+ | 50m | *** | The extension, just possible with an 80m rope |
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70 | Schnappi | 4c | 30m | * | The easy angled slabs right of the portal |
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71 | Crash | 6c+ | 30m | The arete that starts below Schnappi |
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72 | Stadtaffe | 7a | 30m | ** | Monkey up the smooth overhanging wall on large holds |
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73 | Ruhetag | 6a+ | 30m | ** | The rest day crack right of Stadtaffe has a tricky start |