Kalymnos Styx

Sheltered and south facing, the main part of Styx is a sun trap and thus a good crag for the winter months. That said the sun does not reach the SW facing walls until 12.30, and here can be pleasant in spring and autumn. It has beautiful views over the bay of Emporios, which offers welcome swimming and lunch in the warmer months. The rock is often sharp. Guillot corner is a classic of the grade.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
200m
Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
6a - 7b
Faces
South
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

Drive or bus to Emporios and as you enter the village turn right instead of left for the beach. The road goes steeply upwards and stops at a concrete dam wall. Park here. Another 50m further up the road after the hairpin is a small gate on the left. Go through this and turn left for the main crag (gets the sun early) and right for Emporios portal (gets the sun later). 20 to 25 minutes from the dam wall.

Kalymnos Styx climbing topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR OLIVE

50 to 100m left of the main buttresses is a smaller sector with several routes mostly between 6a and 6c on sharp rock
01 Charly's cat 6a 25m *

The left hand line. Sharp
02 Olive tree 6a 25m **

same finish as Charly's cat
03 Meckerfitze 6b 25m
04 SFH 6b+ 25m
05 Kalite 6c+ 25m
06 Aquila 6c 25m
07 Babele 6c+ 30m
08 Oil 7a+ 20m
09 Crazy Dream 5a 15m
10 Fix 7b 15m
11 Stamina 6c 25m **

The pocketed red wall at the right hand side of this sector
11a MAIN SECTOR

100m left of Guillot corner, where the approach path arrives
12 Tönerner Krug 6a 25m ***

The exposed left arete of the cave
13 String secret 6b 20m **

Bridge up the obvious red corner
14 Killbit 6c 20m **

Climb large holds and tufas to meet String Secret
15 Praline 6b+ 15m ***
16 Zugabe 6b 15m ***
17 Golden Top 6a+ 22m *
18 Litlost 6b 25m *

Wall and overhang
19 Paulina 6c 20m *
20 Lene 6b 25m *
21 Johanna 6a 20m *
22 Stachet Schwein 6a+ 20m 0

Not recommended
23 Bunker 6a+ 25m **
24 The Deal 6b+ 31m ***

Climb the slab to reach the small overhang. Same finish as the next route
25 Team no Werk 6c 30m **
26 Nissim 6b+ 25m ***

From the ledge climb the wall to the overhang
27 Nissim extension 6c 35m **
28 Boleskine house 6b+ 30m *
29 Boleskine house extension 7a 36m ***
30 Zolotas 6b 30m **
31 Zolotas extension 7a 36m **
32 Silbermond 6c 25m *
33 Innuendo 6c 25m **
34 Waiting for the Spring 6b 22m **
35 Leningrad cowboys go America 6b 22m **
36 For kids 4a 20m ***

The well bolted pillar is suitable for kids
37 Hades 6c 20m *
38 Medesa 7b 15m **
38a STYX MAIN SECTOR (RIGHT)

The routes right of the tree
39 Kapilotracté 6c+ 15m **

Just right of the tree
40 Dragoner 6b 20m ***

Steep and sustained
41 Pablo-Luca 6a 20m **

Same finish as Dragoner
42 Troll 6a+ 15m *
43 Portokali Taxidi 6c 25m Gold

Great climbing up the orange wall
44 Otavi 6b 25m **
45 Poco Loco 6a+ 20m *

Steep with good, sharp holds
46 Harmonie 5c 20m *

Big holds, sharp and tough for the grade
46 Klotho (Do you remember) 5c+ 20m **
48 Lachesis (Sixpack) 5c 20m ***
49 Atropos (Keep on smiling) 6a 20m **
50 SECTOR FRANCOIS GUILLOT

The impressive wall with a large 50m corner (Guillot corner), where the path meets the crag

51 Ziegenstall 7c 65m **

Three pitches 7a; 7b; 7c
52 Antonella 7b 40m *

Hard moves round the overhang
53 Coloria 6c 30m *

shares the lower off with the next route
54 I love Kalymnos 6b 30m **

Rough, smooth rough rock, quite sustained in the middle.
55 Guillot corner 5c+ 35m ***

The excellent bridging corner is climbed on sharp rock and blobs
56 Guillot extension 5c+ 50m ***

The second part of the corner. Can be done as one long pitch
57 Music of rock 6b+ 25m **

Start up the corner and move right to climb tufas. Shares the lower off with the next two routes
58 Tiny Tina 6b+ 25m ***

A hard, sharp start
59 Loutraki 6c+ 25m **
60 Ivan is grand 7a+ 25m ***

Starts up Loutraki and trends right
61 Warm Bier 7a+ 25m

The red corner and grey wall
62 Select 6c 30m *

Sharp!
63 Andros 6a 30m *

The chimney
63a SECTOR EMPORIOS PORTAL

The huge cave goes all the way to the top and has some impressive routes
64 Circus 7a+ 35m **

The wall just left of the huge cave
65 Ingo 6b 25m **

The left hand route inside the cave
66 No exit 6a+ 45m **

Stops just before the top of the big cave. Note the length, tie a knot in the end of your rope.
67 Metro 6a+ 47m **

The third route inside the cave. Note the length, tie a knot in the end of your rope.
68 Olivenbaum 6b+ 25m **

Above the beautiful old olive tree on the right hand side of the cave
69 Olivenbaum extension 6c+ 50m ***

The extension, just possible with an 80m rope
70 Schnappi 4c 30m *

The easy angled slabs right of the portal
71 Crash 6c+ 30m

The arete that starts below Schnappi
72 Stadtaffe 7a 30m **

Monkey up the smooth overhanging wall on large holds
73 Ruhetag 6a+ 30m **

The rest day crack right of Stadtaffe has a tricky start

Crags in this region: