Kalymnos Styx

Sheltered and south facing, the main part of Styx is a sun trap and thus a good crag for the winter months. That said the sun does not reach the SW facing walls until 12.30, and here can be pleasant in spring and autumn. It has beautiful views over the bay of Emporios, which offers welcome swimming and lunch in the warmer months. The rock is often sharp. Guillot corner is a classic of the grade.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
200m
Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
6a - 7b
Faces
South
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR OLIVE

50 to 100m left of the main buttresses is a smaller sector with several routes mostly between 6a and 6c on sharp rock

01 Charly's cat 6a 25m *

The left hand line. Sharp

02 Olive tree 6a 25m **

same finish as Charly's cat

11 Stamina 6c 25m **

The pocketed red wall at the right hand side of this sector

11a MAIN SECTOR

100m left of Guillot corner, where the approach path arrives

12 Tönerner Krug 6a 25m ***

The exposed left arete of the cave

13 String secret 6b 20m **

Bridge up the obvious red corner

14 Killbit 6c 20m **

Climb large holds and tufas to meet String Secret

15 Praline 6b+ 15m ***
16 Zugabe 6b 15m ***
17 Golden Top 6a+ 22m *
18 Litlost 6b 25m *

Wall and overhang

19 Paulina 6c 20m *
20 Lene 6b 25m *
21 Johanna 6a 20m *
22 Stachet Schwein 6a+ 20m 0

Not recommended

23 Bunker 6a+ 25m **
24 The Deal 6b+ 31m ***

Climb the slab to reach the small overhang. Same finish as the next route

25 Team no Werk 6c 30m **
26 Nissim 6b+ 25m ***

From the ledge climb the wall to the overhang

27 Nissim extension 6c 35m **
28 Boleskine house 6b+ 30m *
29 Boleskine house extension 7a 36m ***
30 Zolotas 6b 30m **
31 Zolotas extension 7a 36m **
32 Silbermond 6c 25m *
33 Innuendo 6c 25m **
34 Waiting for the Spring 6b 22m **
35 Leningrad cowboys go America 6b 22m **
36 For kids 4a 20m ***

The well bolted pillar is suitable for kids

37 Hades 6c 20m *
38 Medesa 7b 15m **
38a STYX MAIN SECTOR (RIGHT)

The routes right of the tree

39 Kapilotracté 6c+ 15m **

Just right of the tree

40 Dragoner 6b 20m ***

Steep and sustained

41 Pablo-Luca 6a 20m **

Same finish as Dragoner

42 Troll 6a+ 15m *
43 Portokali Taxidi 6c 25m Gold

Great climbing up the orange wall

44 Otavi 6b 25m **
45 Poco Loco 6a+ 20m *
46 Harmonie 5c 20m *
46 Klotho (Do you remember) 5c+ 20m **
48 Lachesis (Sixpack) 5c 20m ***
49 Atropos (Keep on smiling) 6a 20m **
50 SECTOR FRANCOIS GUILLOT

The impressive wall with a large 50m corner (Guillot corner), where the path meets the crag

51 Ziegenstall 7c 65m **

Three pitches 7a; 7b; 7c

52 Antonella 7b 40m *

Hard moves round the overhang

53 Coloria 6c 30m *

shares the lower off with the next route

54 I love Kalymnos 6b 30m **

Rough, smooth rough rock, quite sustained in the middle.

55 Guillot corner 5c+ 35m ***

The excellent bridging corner is climbed on sharp rock and blobs

56 Guillot extension 5c+ 50m ***

The second part of the corner. Can be done as one long pitch

57 Music of rock 6b+ 25m **

Start up the corner and move right to climb tufas. Shares the lower off with the next two routes

58 Tiny Tina 6b+ 25m ***

A hard, sharp start

59 Loutraki 6c+ 25m **
60 Ivan is grand 7a+ 25m ***

Starts up Loutraki and trends right

61 Warm Bier 7a+ 25m

The red corner and grey wall

62 Select 6c 30m *

Sharp!

63 Andros 6a 30m *

The chimney

63a SECTOR EMPORIOS PORTAL

The huge cave goes all the way to the top and has some impressive routes

64 Circus 7a+ 35m **

The wall just left of the huge cave

65 Ingo 6b 25m **

The left hand route inside the cave

66 No exit 6a+ 45m **

Stops just before the top of the big cave. Note the length, tie a knot in the end of your rope.

67 Metro 6a+ 47m **

The third route inside the cave. Note the length, tie a knot in the end of your rope.

68 Olivenbaum 6b+ 25m **

Above the beautiful old olive tree on the right hand side of the cave

69 Olivenbaum extension 6c+ 50m ***

The extension, just possible with an 80m rope

70 Schnappi 4c 30m *

The easy angled slabs right of the portal

71 Crash 6c+ 30m

The arete that starts below Schnappi

72 Stadtaffe 7a 30m **

Monkey up the smooth overhanging wall on large holds

73 Ruhetag 6a+ 30m **

The rest day crack right of Stadtaffe has a tricky start