Rodellar - Pince sans rire

A lovely crag with some shaded warm ups for the morning, and sustained test pieces for the afternoon when the sun has slowly moved off the right hand face. The routes on the left look scrappy and loose at first appearance, and although most of the loose rock has disappeared, they should still be treated with care. By contrast the right hand face is a huge sweep of rock consisting of excellent steep tufa climbing. Admittedly becoming polished, but this does not detract from the quality of the routes. Good technique, stamina and a certain amount of push pay dividends here.

Region
Spain - Rodellar
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
800m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
6b - 8c
Faces
All
Climbing Area
Rodellar
Directions

From the parking in the village continue along the road on foot, towards the church along a cobbled street. At the end of this street are some maps of walks and a shortcut leading down right to cut out the first hairpin in the road. Continue along the road for 200m to another hairpin where a path leads down left. Follow this straight on until some stepping stones allow you to cross the river. Follow the river past the large caves of Gran Boveda and La Nuit de Temps, shortly after, a path leads up steep scree to the base of Pince Sans Rire. About 15 minuutes from the village.

Rodellar climbing topo pince sans rire
Rodellar climbing topo pince sans rire

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
03 Tora 6c 15m
04 La alimana de Ocana 6b 15m
05 Los hermanos peruanos 6b+ 15m
06 No hay pico con lagunas 6b+ 20m
07 Ciao bambino 6b 20m
08 Dimes y diretes 6c 20m
09 unknown 7a+ 20m
10 Pire en el Fire 7a 20m ***

The initial groove leads to nice moves through the steep roof
11 Esclava laboral 6c+ 20m ***

Climb the wall then go through the big roof
12 El enano de Siberia 6b+ 20m **

Trend steeply rightwards to the groove and climb this more easily to the lower off

13 El mirador del enano 8a 20m

starts from the terrace above the left hand side and climbs through the roof
14 Pikku Kana 6c+ 22m
15 Malaguita 7b 20m
16 La piton 8a+ 30m

two pitches 7c;8a+
17 A toda gas 8b+ 30m
18 A contracorriente 8c+ 35m

Two pitches 7c;8c+
19 El chorreras 8b+ 30m
20 Akelarre 7c+ 25m
21 Akelarre extension 8a 30m
22 Gracias fina 8a 30m
23 Maria ponte el arnés 7b+ 35m

Another fine stamina test-piece with a technical middle section. Beta here
24 Pince sans rire 7b+ 35m Gold

Dry humour. Pinch or drop knee your way up the incredible tufas. Not technically hard but very steep and sustained.
25 Wiskyri 8a 35m
26 Afina con Cristina 7b 35m ***

Another superb line with three distinct crux moves
27 The far faders west 7b 40m
28 Fisica 7b+ 40m
29 Quimica 7a+ 50m

Crags in this region: