Schauenburgfluh

Schauenburgfluh is an important crag near to Basel, and one of the largest in the Basler Jura. With 40m high walls and nearly 100 routes, it has lots of long wall climbs to offer, mostly in the middle grades. Some of the routes have two pitches, although most can be done in a single run out with an 80m rope. The routes are generally solid, but especially at the top, there is still some loose rock around, and helmets are advised.

The left hand side is less popular than the middle and right hand sides. However the Cheese Wall has some good routes on it, and it is well worth the visit. It tends to be less hot than the main wall, being buried in the trees, but this can mean it takes longer to dry.

The middle sections gets the sun until the middle of the afternoon and has many classic routes. Lange Wand is excellent and the Tropfsteinwand has really nice tufa type formations, albeit a bit fragile. Some of the routes here are very long, an 80m rope ican be useful. Make sure your rope reaches the bottom, tie a knot in the end, and if necessary use one of the halfway abseil points. Although most routes are fitted with good bolts, a few of the easier ones need nut and friend protection.

The right hand side has generally easier, but still pleasant routes.

 

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
650m
Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
5a - 7b
Faces
South East
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR CHEESE WALL

CHEESE WALL.Situated at the very left hand side of the crag is a nice SW facing wall

01 Rosenkante 6b+ 20m

At the left hand side of the crag is an arete with a corner to its right. Climb the arete.

02 Rosenriss 4b 25m

The long corner. Descend by walking round to the left (facing in)

03 Guru Meditation 7a 20m

The wall just right of the corner

04 Orientexpress 6b 20m

The 2nd route on the wall right of the corner with a slight bulge halfway. Nice climbing. it is possible to carry on all the way to the top (29m) but it is usual to finish at the lower off.

05 Not easy for Cheese 6c+ 20m ***

Excellent sustained, strenuous and fingery climbing, with some hard moves to reach the little overlap.

06 Hampelma 7a+ 20m

Tricky fingery wall just to the right of "Not easy for cheese"

08 Traumkante 6a+ 25m

The long arete to the right of Cheese wall can be reached either direct or from the right

10 Siebner 5b 40m

Climbing not allowed

11 Wintergarten 6a+ 40m

Climbing not allowed

12 Achter 5c 40m

Climbing not allowed

13 Fantarktis 7b 40m

Climbing not allowed

14 Originale 4b 40m

Climbing not allowed

15 Das gelbe Dach 40m

Climbing not allowed

16 H-Riss 6a 40m

Climbing not allowed

17 Flugwetter 6b 40m

Climbing not allowed

17a SECTOR KAMEL

KAMEL. The Kamel is the large detached block to the left of Eschenriss. The path passes between the Kamel and the main crag.

18 Efeuriss 5c 40m

On the left hand side of Kamel wall is a long bolted crack. Follow this to the top

19 S'het solang s'het 6b 20m

Follow Efeuriss until it is possible to climb left up the wall past 3 bolts to a lower off.

20 Timeout 7a 40m

Follow Efeuriss to the halfway lower off and climb the bolted wall on the left

21 Skyhook 6c 20m

The bolted line just to the right of Efeuriss

22 Yoga 7b 25m

Opposite the camel is a slightly overhanging loose looking corner. Start to the left of this and continue direct to the lower off.

23 Tiramisu 6c 35m ***

Start as for Yoga, but traverse right into the overhanging corner and climb this. Pumpy. Continue with interest up the cracked wall. Excellent climbing

24 Take it Easy 6a+ 35m

The arete to the right of the overhanging corner, starting on the right. Tricky. Finish as for Tiramisu

25 Xeonopus laevis 7a+ 40m

The long wall / slab opposite the right hand side of the camel (facing in). Lower off possible half way

26 Emanzipation 6b 20m

Climb the crack just to the right of Xenopus

27 Fehlalarm 6c+ 35m

The long wall to the left of Eschenriss is Albatros, Fehlalarm is the left hand finish to this route

28 Albatros 6c+ 35m

The wall left of Eschenriss finishing direct

29 Eschenriss 5c+ 40m

The long leftward slanting crack

29a SECTOR

BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS. Up and to the left of where the approach path meets the crag is a small recessed bay

30 Teufelsriss 5c+ 38m

The blocky groove left of the big corner. At the lower off it is possible to continue either direct or move right into the corner

31 Hollöch 5a 40m

The large corner

32 Thouwabouw 6c+ 38m

Breaks left around the arete from half way up Klingenspringer

33 Klingenspringer 6b 35m **

The left hand side of Höllochpfeiler with a steep, slippery crack to start

34 Zwangsneurose 6c 30m

Straight up the middle of Höllochspfeiler, starting on the right

35 Via Rothschild 6a+ 35m **

The right hand side of Höllochspfeiler

36 Super 6b 0

The corner on the RHS of Höllochpfeiler. Trad climb.

37 Gummikiller 7a 27m

Climbs the left hand side of the "breakfast" wall.

38 Gummiadler 6b+ 27m Gold

Climb the middle of the breakfast wall to a junction with Gummikiller, and continue direct until the slab starts to overhang. Pull over the overlap with a long reach to good holds. Brilliant. The left hand start is Golfkiller (6c)

39 Breakfast of Champions 7a 36m ***

Start on the RHS of the slab and climb direct. An indirect variant is possible by traversing left after the 5th bolt to join Golfkiller just before it's crux at a grade of 7b. Oddly called "Breakfast direct"

40 Angensteiner Verschneidung 5a 40m ***

The long corner. Two possible stances are available, or can be done in one pitch with an 80m rope.

40a Nano 6a+ 12m

A short route just to the right of the corner

41 Siebenschläfer 6b 40m **

From the belay by the small roof of Angensteiner Verschneidung move right around the arete and climb the wall to the lower off. Either two abseils or an 80m rope is necessary to reach the ground.

41a Achterschläfer 6b+ 20m

A strange route that starts in the middle of the wall above the lower-off of Parking Lot and climbs to the lower-off of Siebenschläfer. Reached by abseiling from the top of the first or second pitch of Siebenschläfer

42 Parking lot 7a 13m

Short and Stiff, the LHS of Lange Wand

43 Biceps 7b 20m

The sister route to Parking Lot finishing at the same lower off. Just as short and sharp. It also possible to continue up to Lange Wand, and then climb the wall on the left. Labyrinth 7a. 40m

45 Kurze Wand 7c 18m

A direct start to Lange Wand. A touch harder.

46 Lange Wand 5c+ 39m ***

A long classic sustained crack climb. Start at the bottom of the obvious crack following it with difficulty as it moves left. Continue past the midway lower off point to reach the top.

47 Labyrinth 7a 40m

Climbs from the first belay on Lange Wand to the lower off of Siebenschläfer

48 Vista diabola 6a+ 23m ***

The first line of bolts right of Lange Wand

49 Papipi 6a+ 35m ***

A long route with tricky moves through the overlap. Finishing the route at the lower off of Vista reduces the grade to 6a (Pipi)

50 Dritter Frühling 6b 30m ***
51 Chés Bracé 6c 30m **

Starts at the LHS of the boulder and climbs up to the slightly overhanging finger crack where it gets harder

52 Fixi 6a 15m **

Finishes by traversing right to the lower off of Foxi. Also possible to continue direct to the lower off of Tropfsteinriss, or indeed all the way to the top via Bayrischer Traum in one very long pitch

53 Foxi 5c+ 15m **

same lower off as Fixi

54 Lischte Tango 6b 20m

Edge climbing to the lower off. The continuation is very good and 6a (35m)

55 Bayrischer Traum 6b+ 10m **

From the 2nd belay of Tropfsteinriss, move left and climb the arete

56 Tropfsteinriss 5b 40m ***

The long corner leading to the top of the crag. A classic

57 Tropfsteinriss Ausstiegsvariante 5c 40m ***

A n alternative finish

58 Es raschelt im Blätterwald 6a+ 38m Gold

After the first hard crack, superb climbing on pinches and just enough holds. Used to finish about 10m below the top, but now carries on all the way.

59 Lapsus 6c 40m ***

6a to the first lower off, then continue through the roof to a hard last move.

60 Gleichgewicht der Kräfte 6b+ 18m

The steep bolted crack to a lower off. The continuation is 6b and 35m.

61 Tropfsteinwand 6a+ 40m

Originally a trad climb starting up the crack to the right of Gleichgewicht, traversing right at the roof and continuing all the way to the top

61a SECTOR RHS

SCHAUENBURGFLUH RIGHT HAND SIDE. To the right of Tropfsteinwand are some overgrown rocks and then 20m further right the climbs start again

62 H-REM Riss 6a+ 30m

The long corner

63 Dornröschen 6b 27m ***

A tricky first part to the lower off of Goggoli, then carry on up the slab

64 Goggoli-na 6a+ 18m **

Hard moves using a couple of one finger holds to the lower off

65 Tempelriss 5b 25m

The long bolted crack

66 Riss 5c+ 25m

The crack 20m R of Tempelriss

67 Romerweg 5b 25m

R of Riss

68 Chrüz und quer 7a 25m

In the large corner is a huge boulder. Climb off the LHS of this up the steep wall

69 Crack a go 6b 25m

Just L of the corner, the same start as Chrüz und quer

70 Kamin 6a 25m

The large corner. Trad climb

71 Regenbogen 6a+ 30m

Start from the large boulder and traverse right to the arete. Climb the arete

72 Regenbogen direkt 6c 30m

Reach the arete direkt

73 Renaissance 7a 15m

Climbs the wall right of the arete to join Ostturm Südwand at the first lower off

74 Ostturm Südwand 5c 30m

Starts behind the boulder, just right of Renaissance and climbs past two lower-offs to finish direct up the middle of the wall. Starting direct is 6b.

75 Schrägriss direkt 6a 25m

Right of the starting boulder of Ostturm Südwand is a crack. Climb this to join Tiwanacu and continue direct up the crack on its right. Trad route.

76 Tiwanacu 6a 35m

The bolted line just right of the crack of Schrägriss direkt. Climb the wall and move left to climb a crack/corner, then move left again to finish up the wall

77 Das kommt von vielen saufen 6b 25m

The centre of the Ostturm wall, to the same lower off as Schrägriss (missing bolt at the top?, so move right to finish to the right of Schrägriss at 5c?)

78 Schrägriss 4c 25m

The obvious bolted left trending crack

79 Prüfungsangst 6b 25m

Start as for the Santa Barbara Riss, but move left to climb the wall

80 Santa Barbara Riss 5c 25m

The crack towards the RHS of the crag

81 Hugides 6a+ 25m

Start up Santa Barbara Riss, but move R at half height