Tafraoute North - Lower Eagle

The Afantizar valley is a lovely, lonely place to climb, and Lower Eagle an excellent cliff with long routes, getting easier the higher you climb. Black Beauty, the prominent streak down the middle of the crag is already a classic, visible from afar.

Region
Morocco - Tafraoute
Rock Type
Quartzite
Altitude
1500m
Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
VS - E4
Faces
North West
Climbing Area

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
06 Pink Lady VS 4c 230m ***

Starts by some pinkish slabs and climb left to reach a chimney (50m 4a), follow this to reach a rib (50m 4c). Climb the rib (50m 4c) to reach a second chimney. Climb the chimney and then left arete to reach ledges (30m 4c) and continue to the top (50m 4b)

07 Real men wear pink VS 4c 230m

A variation on "Pink Lady", climbing the crack system on the right of pitches 2 and 3

08 Immacularder HVS 5a 210m

Start 20m left of Black Beauty and follow the easiest line, leftwards at first, to the top of the cliff

09 Black Beauty E1 5b 210m ***

The classic line of the crag taking the obvious black streak, moving right after 100m to avoid the tree filled chimney. Pitch grades: 15m 5a; 35m 5b; 50m 5a; 50m 5b; 60m 4c

10 Moroccan Gold E2 5b 210m ***

Start up the chimney just right of Black Beauty, and continue awkwardly and strenuously to a hanging groove and a belay ledge (55m 5b). Continue up slabs, grooves and over bulges to a ledge under an orange bulge (55m 5b). Continue up a diagonal crack, and over slabs and bulges to another ledge (50m 5a). Finish direct (50m 4c)

11 Pale and interesting E1 5a 200m **

Start as for Moroccan gold, and belay after the chimney (25m 4c); Move right to climb a crack to a ledge (30m 4c); Step left and climb the steep wall over 2 bulges and a small roof (30m 5a). Continue direct, becoming easier as you get higher (115m 4c)

12 Another day at the coalface E1 5b 180m

Follows a left slanting black line to the top of the crag, starting at a shallow groove leading to a break in the overhangs

13 Herbivore E2 5c 215m

Avoids the hard start of Infinity, by starting as for "Coalface" and then traversing the break past "Infinity" to belay below a cave (35m 5c). Continue right until some steep bold moves left into the cave (50m 5b). Continue more easily direct to the top (130m).

14 Infinity E4 5c 210m **

A poorly protected and hollow first 15m leads to a difficult move into a superb crack (5c). Follow this still with difficulty to the first stance (30m 5c). Now step boldy up and right and continue trending slightly right to belay at the left hand end of a ledge system (40m 5b). Continue more or less direct in 2 or 3 pitches to the top of the crag (140m 5a)

15 Artful Dodging VS 210m

A wandering line that follows the weaknesses up the central part of the cliff