Tüfleten Left

Tüfleten is a relatively large, varied crag with routes to suit most tastes. The climbing is on typical Basler Jura limestone; slabs and steep walls that are smooth and peppered with pockets and edges. The routes are often hard to read on sight. The crag has a sunny disposition, this can be good in the winter but often too hot in summer. The route Shogun is probably the hardest in the Basler Jura. It took the first ascensionist  Eric Talmadge13 years until he redpointed it in the year 2000. Since then up to 2018 it has only had two repeats, one by Adam Ondra in 2009 (5th go) and one by Alex Megos in 2017 (one day).

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
500m
Number of routes
30
Faces
South West
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

AMIGO

01 Schimanski 3 16m

No bolts. This and Miss Marple are immediately to the left of the Amigo Buttress

02 Miss Marple 3 17m

no bolts

03 Suuri Linie 7a 14m

The first route on the left hand side of the Amigo Buttress

04 Mardat 7a+ 14m
05 Pitscha 7a+ 13m
06 Gugus 5c+ 19m
07 Voller Mond 6a 13m
08 Amigo 5c+ 19m
09 Amigo di Luna 7b 17m
10 Reise ins gelobte Land 7a 28m
11 Angesteiner Route 6b 25m
12 La Traviata 7b+ 25m
14 Tüfteln im Tüfleten 6c+ 12m ***

Superb sustained climbing.

15 Unknown 7a 12m ***

A pleasant and sustained route just to the right of Tüfteln im Tüfleten

16 Unknown 7a+ 15m

Starts left of the ivy and climbs up to join diagonal, with a hard move at the third bolt

17 Diagonale 5c 15m

starts in the ivy on the right and trends up and left

19 SECTOR

BEST LOVER

20 London Calling 6a+ 24m
21 Der trojanische Hase 6a+ 22m
22 Kojak 4a 23m
23 Ladykiller 6b+ 17m
24 Best Lover in Town 7a 20m
25 Wolke 7 4b 7m
26 Space cake 6b+ 19m
27 Bellamy 5b 13m

The left hand side of the wall right of Space cake. One bolt

28 Kleines Riesenschwein 4a 13m

Just to the right of Bellamy. No bolts

30 SECTOR

SHOGUN

31 Preussriss 5b 13m
32 Snoopy Dirndl 7c 6m
33 unknown 14m
35 Rien sans soleil 7c 12m
36 Brake the chalk for a wild ride 6a 15m
37 Take a walk on the wild side 6a+ 11m
38 Luxation 6c+ 11m
39 Leberwurst 4a 17m
40 Im Reich des Shogun part 1 8b+ 18m

The original hard route of the crag, superseded 8 years later by part 2.

41 Im Reich des Shoguns part 2 9a+ 19m

Took a total of 13 years to complete, one of the hardest routes in the Basler Jura

42 Bärni 7b 23m
43 Zwischen Urinkur und Rütlischwur 6a 22m