Chuenisberg Ravage

The sector Ravage is steep and has a long history. It was once home to the hardest route in the world. Ravage is a route that has now been on sighted by Adam Ondra. The Bohemian born, Basel resident, Wenzel Vodicka worked with  the leading French climber Antoine Le Menestrel to make the first ascent back in 1985. Originally graded 8b+, it is now thought to be 8c, and still sees very few ascents. Vodicka later turned his attention to the wall to the right, but continually failed on one move, despite many attempts over many years. Frederick Nicole eventually redpointed the route in 1996, and impressed with the standard that Vodicka had reached, named it "Enfant de Boheme". A few years later another Frenchman, Pierre Bollinger added an even harder route to this wall, "Fusion" graded 8c+. You can see a video here.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
600m
Number of routes
20
Faces
North
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 Sector

Ravage. At the left hand side of the Ravage buttress is "Zur blauen Rebe", see the sector Chuenisberg Premiere. The first routes described here start to the right of that route

01 Long Dong Silver 7c 8m

Starts to the left of Noir c'est noir. Compression moves.

01e Long Dong Gold 8a 12m

The extension to Long Dong Silver

02 Noir c'est noir 7c+ 20m
03 Sika Merfen 7b+ 25m
03e Sika Merfen extension 7c

Crux at the end

03f Shaqattack 8a+ 25m

The right hand extension to Sika Merfen

04 Unfinished Business 8a 20m

Breaks left out of Sika Merfen. An extension to the extension has been bolted

05 Fortuna 8b 25m

Start up Sika Merfen, move left and then back right to finish up Sika Merfen extension

06 Paroxysme 7b+ 8m

Climbs to the 4th bolt of the next route

06e L'appel de la foret 8c 15m

Paroxysme completion

07 Ravage 8c 12m

Once the hardest route in the world, has now been led on sight

08 Enfant de Bohéme 8c 13m

The right hand variant to Ravage

08R Enfant de la fusion 8c+

A right hand finish to Enfant de Boheme

09 Fusion 8c+ 15m
09L Instant de fébrilité 8c+

Left hand finish to Fusion

10 Marqué en toit 8a+ 10m

To the first lower off. The extension is similar

11 Le salaire du Zappeur 8b 14m
12 Douleur 3 7c 14m
13 Mesodehydral 7b 17m

Starts as for Mesotherachute but goes left up the slanting flake

14 Mesotherachute au sol 7a+ 17m

The excellent groove, hard at the start, then sustained all the way

16 Le petit Nicolas 7c 12m **
17 Il est ou, le beau caillou? 6c 11m ***
25 Blackus Domus 4b 15m

A bit further right is an obvious rightward slanting weakness. 4b seems a bit optimistic for this route

26 Faillite politique 7a+ 15m

An overhanging start leads to a hard boulder problem over the bulge and still tricky climbing up the finishing cracks

27 Political Bassa Bassa 7a+ 15m

Easier overhanging climbing to a hard move over the bulge past a mono, then larger holds to the same lower off as Faillite politique

28 Kampf der Giganten 6b 15m

A steep start, then move right to follow huge holds up the overhanging, rightward trending crack and a tricky final bulge. It is possible to move left at the huge holds and finish at the lower off of the previous two routes (6c+). It is also possible to start direct (6c)

29 Seven up 7a+ 15m

Starts right of the direct start to Kampf der Giganten, has hard moves in the middle and moves left over the bulge to finish at the lower off of Kampf der Giganten

30 Der Schein trügt 7a 30m

The name says it all. Starts a few metres right of the previous route