Engelhörner Kingspitze

It looks like a friendly Swiss crag, but Kingspitze is actually a major Alpine undertaking.

Reading the topo, you see the max grade of 5c, bolts on all the stances, and think, "that can't be too bad". And from one point of view it is OK. A strong team, good weather, a bit of knowledge of the descent, and well, it is just a good day out. But get stuck finding the start, have a bit of trouble where the route goes in the middle, get freaked out by the loose top pitch, can't work out how to get down, hit by a an afternoon storm, benighted because you got up too late, and suddenly this fine peak turns into a nightmare. In brief, don't underestimate it. Kingspitze is nearly 600m of vertical limestone, has over 15 pitches if you count the scramble at the start, and the descent takes 5 hours. It is a major undertaking. But the quality of the climbing, the sheer size of it, and the view from this beautiful pointed needle, that has 500m of drop on all sides, makes it one of the classics of the Alps. If you are capable, go for it!

Region

Switzerland - Bernese Oberland

Rock Type

Limestone

Altitude

2621m

Number of routes

Faces

South East

Climbing Area

Engelhörner

Directions

From Meiringen drive South taking the road to the Grimsel pass and turn right after 1km onto Schwendistrasse. Follow this for about 7 km, where the road crosses the river at Gschwandtenmaad (bus stop) and shortly after there is a left turn over the Rhychenbach onto a gravel track. Turn sharp left and follow this track for about 1km to park just below the Rhychenbachalp farmhouse. There is a charge for parking here, please do not avoid paying this to prevent future access problems.

Walk through the farmhouse and follow the footpath to the warm and friendly Engelhörner hut. About an hour from the farmhouse

From the hut walk up the Ochsental for about 20 minutes to the base of the wall.

The climb has bolts on all the stances, but is very sparsely bolted in between, although all the hard (5c) moves can be aided if necessary. take a rack of gear, and double 50m ropes. The route is long, the descent too, and a lot of time can be wasted locating and getting to the first real pitch that is about 150m up. This is a smooth corner on the right hand side of the wall.To reach it, you can either climb direct to a small pinnacle with a gully behind it to the left of, and below the corner. Better, easier, but slightly longer, start at the long ramp down and to the left, that leads to the same place. Most parties will want to rope up even for this first section, and it is worth working out where it goes the evening before.

Once at the bottom of the corner, the technical climbing starts. 1) 4c the corner 30m. 2) 5c 35m 3) 5c+ 40m 4) 4b 30m 5) 5c+ 25m 6) 4c 35m 7) 4a 40m 8) 4c 30m 9) 3b 40m 10) 5a 35m 11) 5c+ 20m 12) 3c scramble up and right until you can climb a short wall that leads to the bolt belay. 100m 13) 4a Continue up to the base of the final section. 30m 14) 3b Climb the loose arete gained from the right 45m 15) II. Follow the ridge to the summit (exposed!) 30m.

The descent is long and complicated. Climb down the west ridge (bolts to protect you) to the big tower and turn right into a red / yellow gully. Now descend the rocky slope until you reach a large smooth gully with 4 abseils of about 25m. At the bottom of this turn right and traverse below Pollux to reach the Ochsensattel. It is possible to descend this traversing at first about 30m to a chimney like gully, which is descended / crossed. Keep descending, but make a semi circular route rightwards to reach an abseil over the Ochsenplatte, and eventually to the hut. From the Ochsensattel it is easier, but longer to turn left and descend to point 1966m where it is possible to traverse across the rock band and descend down and around Rosenlauistock to the hut. Allow 4 hours for the descent.