Fallenflue
The mystery of the disappearing guidebook. Have you ever noticed that whereas coat hangers in cupboards seem to breed and multiply on their own accord, guidebooks die and disappear. You buy the thing, use it a couple of times and then a year later it is nowhere to be seen. Where did it go? You carefully put it back on the bookshelf, but somehow in the intervening time it disappeared. Lost? Stolen? Decayed? Who knows? It is to be hoped that Climbapedia follows the coat hanger path, and not the fate of the traditional paper guidebook . You could help here. In fact it is the difficulty finding information, getting a guidebook to Fallenflue, and then it disappearing, that was the inspiration for Climbapedia.It is a great crag, and it deserves that people can find it.
Anyway back to the crag itself.
Mostly single pitch routes with a big wall feel about them. The view of the surrounding mountains, particularly when the valley is shrouded in mist, is stunning.
The South face is an excellent winter climbing venue. Because of the vast amount of rock, if the sun is shining it is possible to climb in T shirt and shorts in the middle of the ski season. Forget it in high summer though! By contrast the North West side is more suited to hot weather.
From the westerly parking spot follow the edge of the field to the furthest point and drop thorugh the wood for 20 metres to a forestry track. Turn right and follow this for a few hundred metres until a track on the left leads to the top of the cliff and a scary abseil point. Avoid this and keep following the cliff edge until you come to sector "Silber". Just before the crag turn sharp left and then follow the exposed bottom of the cliff to the first routes. 15 to 20 minutes from the parking.
Crags in this region:
| Title | Description |
|---|---|
| Fallenflue Förröm | Long pitches from the exposed ledge. Make sure your rope is long enough! |
| Fallenflue Gülden | Single pitch sport routes in a big wall setting. Excellent rock, hot when the sun is shining in winter, and too hot to climb if it is shining in the summer. |
| Fallenflue Plumbum | Excellent climbing from the exposed ledge |
| Fallenflue Silber | Short warm up routes away from the main crag |
Photos (click for full view)
