Grimsel - Bügeleisen
Bugeleisen lies opposite the power station on Grimsel pass, an isolated buttress with excellent slab climbing. The routes are fully bolted, although the long run outs might encourage you to take some friends and wires, not that you will find anywhere to place them!
Go up Grimsel pass and about 6km past the village of Guttannen, 1km before the Handeck hotel is a power station on the left hand side of the road. 100m or so before this on the other side of the road is a track, drive up this for a hundred metres to a slight right bend and park here. The start to the routes is up a path about 15 minutes from the car.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 02 | Bügeleisen | 6a | 200m | *** | A terrific slab climb that gets harder the higher you go. Originally given 5c+, the top pitch will feel very hard at this grade, and the bolts are not that close. (1) 5a. climb from the lowest point to a belay in the overlap. 30m (2) 5a follow the rightward trending crack line. 30m (3) 5c. Climb the slab with a hard move left to reach twin bolts. Continue past these to a belay next to a tree. 50m (4) 5c+. Climb the crack on the left, trending rightwards. 40m (5) 6a. Superb. Move up then slightly left to follow the smooth slab to its end. A bold and absorbing pitch. 50m. Descend by 4 abseils. |
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| 03 | Bresil | 6b | 200m | The right hand bolted line. 5c+; 5c+; 6a; 6b; 6a. Abseil descent |
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