Ingelstein

Ingelstein must rank as one of the most attractive looking, and least visited crags in the Basler Jura. As you drive up the hairpins towards Gempen, it is usually in bright sunshine and looks fantastic. Some of the routes are. Closer inspection however reveals a lot of vegetation, some loose rock, a lot of traditional rather than bolted routes, noise from the road, and a cauldron when the sun shines outside the winter months. The left hand side of the crag has a few bolted routes, and the 2nd pitches are worth doing. Amongst and to the right of these, the natural lines have been left for you to slot friends and nuts into the cracks. The quality of the rock has not led to any enthusiasm to bolt it.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
550m
Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
4c to 7b
Faces
South
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
03 Aschenbrödel 6c 16m

From the first belay on Half Dollar climb the wall on the right

04 Aussenseiter 6a+ 17m
06 Ingelsteiner Kante 6a+ 35m

Climb the left hand crack at the foot of the long corner and continue past the belay to reach the bolts on the left hand wall

08a Autofocus part 1 6b 15m

Move right from the belay of Riss der Alten

08b Autofocus part 2 7a 15m

continue direct

09a Focus part 1 6a 15m
09b Focus part 2 6b 16m
10 Zoom 6b 28m
11 Ameisenweg 5c 46m

The long crack, the pitch can be split at the lower off after 15m

12 Rutus Chrutus 6a 46m

Climb left of the corner to reach the break and traverse right to a belay (5c). Continue left into the crack of Ameisenweg and then after a few moves leave this to cross the right hand wall (6a)

13 Rutus Bombastus 6b+ 28m

From the belay of Rutus Chrustus climb up and right to join that route

15 Handriss 6a+ 43m

Starts between the first crack of Rutus Christus and the corner. Protected with bolts, pegs and threads

16 Ein Gerücht 7b 26m

Climbs the wall right of the belay of Genuss Riss

29 Entlebucher Highway 7a 40m

Two pitches, both 7a. the only real sport climb on the right hand side of the crag

32 Ingelschwein 6c 18m

A short bolted route at the right hand side of the crag

33 Green Day 6b 15m

Same lower off as Ingelschwein

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Der schöne Grat HS 45m
02 Half Dollar E1 5b 45m

The long corner is done in 2 pitches

05 Half dollar right hand variant E1 5b 27m

climbs the right hand side of the flake from the first belay

07 Riss der Alten E2 5c 45m

Start up the corner and chimney to eventually break left across the upper wall

14 Genuss Riss HVS 5a 42m

The long corner finishing on the right

17 Herbstweg HVS 5a 48m

Aid climbing necessary

18 Ingelsteiner Dach E4 6b

Climbs through the large roof. Grade not checked. One of the original testpieces of the Basler Jura. Climbing not allowed due to nesting bats. Which is Ok, because it is horrible and loose.

20 Wollblumenweg E1 5b 46m

A pegged crackline right of the big roof. Has a belay at 15m. Also possible to start right of the crackline to reach the same 1st belay