Tafraoute North - Griffon Rock

Griffon rock is set in a beautiful valley, very easy to access and with many fine routes, albeit short by Moroccan standards. It is also useful having three faces so that you can choose between the sun and the shade.

Region
Morocco - Tafraoute
Rock Type
Quartzite
Altitude
1500m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
S - E5 with most routes in the E1 / E2 range
Faces
All
Climbing Area

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
05 Ten Pound Pom HVS 50m

The wall, groove, arete and crack on the left hand side of the main south face

06 Mike's Route HVS 50m

The slabby wall right of Ten Pound Pom, finishing up that route

07 Dennis the Menace HVS 5a 35m

Meander up to the crack / groove in the middle of the wall and follow this to the top

08 Berber Ellis HS 35m *

Climvb a leftward trending flake to a ledge, move right and follow a groove to the top

09 Grasshopper Arete VS 4c 40m **

The right hand arete of the South buttress

10 Ampitheatre Buttress E1 5a 50m *

A more or less direct line starting at a chimney with a jammed block right of Grasshopper arete

11 Crackerjack E3 5c 50m ***

Climb up to a belay below the overhanging crack and climb this to finish up the steep hollow wall. Sustained and well protected

12 Kangoo Corner VS 4b 60m

The left side of the large pinnacle high on the face

13 Rest Day Rendezvous HVS 4c 60m

The right side of the pinnacle is slightly harder to reach, and has the same finish above. Climbed in two pitches (4c,4b)

14 A profusion of protrusions E1 5b 50m **

The jamming crack and juggy wall on the East face of Griffon

15 Seven years E2 5b 50m **

Climb the flake and rib left of "Profusion" on the East face to finish up the steep arete, from where it is possible to escape to "Profusion"

17 North East Corner E1 5b 60m **

Start at the chimney next to the path on the East face and climb this to a belay ledge (30m 5b). Continue up the groove above and a traverse right to a finishing groove (5b).

18 Two Left Feet E2 5b 70m *

Start 10m left of Pot Black and climb through bulges to meet that route at a spike belay (30m 5b). Climb up to a cave and break out left across the wall to finish up a slab (40m 5b)

19 Pot Black HVS 5b 60m

The groove, cracks, cave and chimney direct to the top

20 Perfect Partners E1 5b 50m *

The left wall of the gully. Climbs the right groove / crack to a ledge, then goes over a bulge to finish up the wall.

22 Moussem E5 6a 25m **

Climb up boldly and with difficulty to a thread. Continental more easily to a sling abseil point

23 Bossy Boots E4 5c

Starts just left of the cave and climbs the scoop past two pegs, then up right to a ledge and back left to belay in the large niche (30m 5c). Continue up the right hand side of the niche, moving onto a pillar to reach an abseil point (30m 5b)

24 Funky Town E1 5a 60m

Starts right of the cave and takes a meandering line up and left to an orange cave (30m 5a). The moves right to climb a black chimney (30m 5a)

25 Blackout E4 5c 40m

Start right of Funky Town and climb up to the right hand side of the orange overhangs. Go through these to a rest on the right and then climb back left to the top. Tree abseil up on the left.

26 Knit one perl one E1 5b 50m *

The wall right of the orange overhangs

27 The Rainmaker E1 5a 50m

Start right of a boulder and head up and rightwards to the pinnacle abseil

28 Kasbah Tizourgane E2 5c 50m **

Start to the left of a black streak and to the right of an orange corner. Gain the corner and after 15m step right onto the face to climb this to a sling (possible lower off) and up easy rock to the top

29 Green Plastic Dinosaur E2 5b 80m **

Follow cracks right of Kasbah Tizourgane to a bulge, go over this and up to a groove in the right wall. Follow this with interest to the abseil pinnacle. A variation is "Cornish Cream" E1 5b,4c that moves left at the groove, and climbs the corner and belays before going up the wall behind the abseil pinnacle.

30 Silver arete E1 5b 40m

The arete left of the silver wall on the right hand side of the crag

31 Silver wall E1 5b 40m *

The centre of the silver wall, starting up Silver arete.