Tafraoute North - The Narrow Slit

A small but worthwhile crag with many excellent routes. The Narrow Slit is a deep, dry gorge with climbs on both wings and at the entrance to the gorge. Abseil points at the top of the Amphibian and Scooby Doo.

Region
Morocco - Tafraoute
Rock Type
Quartzite
Altitude
1500m
Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
HVS - E3
Faces
East
Climbing Area

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Lobster Crawl E1 5b 70m *

Start at thin twin cracks, and climb the right hand one to a stance below the final overhang (40m 5b). traverse right between the overhangs to gain a finishing groove (30m 5a).

02 Crab shell E1 5b 80m

Start at the right side of the small pillar left of the entrance to the slit. Climb up and left to belay on a ledge below an orange corner (left of the black crack) (50m 5a). Climb steeply up and left to an easier finish (30m 5b).

03 Pythagosauras HVS 5a 60m **

The obvious chimney left of the slit. Best done as two pitches to avoid rope drag. Enjoy the exposure at the top, and continue to the abseil point at the top of the Amphibian

04 The Fox E3 5c 55m **

Start up Pythagosaurus, and after the first roof at 15m, traverse right to gain the main face, climb this to a niche (25m 5c). Continue up the cracks and corner above to reach the abseil point of Amphibian (30m 5b).

05 The Amphibian E4 6a 55m ***

An excellent route up the left hand side of the slit. Climb a wide crack to reach a ledge, place a red alien or similar and make a hard move to reach a hand jam sized crack. Continue over the bulge and up the crack to a second hard move. Belay in the cave and continue more easily up the chimneys above

06 Aquabat E1 5b 55m *

The V chimney right of Amphibian is climbed to a belay below an overhang (30m 5b). Traverse left to finish up the chimney of Amphibian (25m 5b). Variation finishes are possible.

07 Riding the Ass E3 5c 60m **

Climbs the crack and flakes 15m right of Aquabat. The pitch can be split at the top of the flake

08 Scooby Doo E1 5b 70m *

The left hand side of the face right of the Slit. Start at the obvious corner / groove and trend left to a belay on the arete (35m 5b). Continue up over two pinnacles to an abseil point (35m 4b).

09 Shaggy E1 5b 50m *
10 Invertibrator HVS 5a

Start right of the Shaggy Pinnacle and continue more or less direct