Tüfleten Left

Tüfleten is a relatively large, varied crag with routes to suit most tastes. The climbing is on typical Basler Jura limestone; slabs and steep walls that are smooth and peppered with pockets and edges. The routes are often hard to read on sight. The crag has a sunny disposition, this can be good in the winter but often too hot in summer. The route Shogun is probably the hardest in the Basler Jura. It took the first ascensionist  Eric Talmadge13 years until he redpointed it in the year 2000. Since then up to 2018 it has only had two repeats, one by Adam Ondra in 2009 (5th go) and one by Alex Megos in 2017 (one day).

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
500m
Number of routes
30
Faces
South West
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

AMIGO

01 Schimanski 3 16m

No bolts. This and Miss Marple are immediately to the left of the Amigo Buttress

02 Miss Marple 3 17m

no bolts

03 Suuri Linie 7a 14m

The first route on the left hand side of the Amigo Buttress

04 Mardat 7a+ 14m
05 Pitscha 7a+ 13m
06 Gugus 5c+ 19m
07 Voller Mond 6a 13m
08 Amigo 5c+ 19m
09 Amigo di Luna 7b 17m
10 Reise ins gelobte Land 7a 28m
11 Angesteiner Riss 6b 25m
12 La Traviata 7b+ 25m
12a Hallenhalma 7c+ 25m
13 Avec les temps 7b+ 25m
14 Tüfteln im Tüfleten 6c+ 12m ***

Superb sustained climbing.

15 Faites vos jeux 6c+ 12m ***

A pleasant and sustained route just to the right of Tüfteln im Tüfleten

15e Event Horizon 8a

The extension to Wolke 7. Bouldery

16 Rien ne va plus 6c 15m

Starts left of the ivy and climbs up to the lower off of Faites vos jeux, with a hard move at the third bolt

17 Diagonale 5c 15m

starts in the ivy on the right and trends up and left

18 SECTOR

BEST LOVER

18a D'Zuckermuus 6b+ 20m

In the recess 20m above the path are a number of routes. D'Zuckermuus is the most left hand climb. Climb the niche and then a tricky middle section, mostly on good pockets.

19a London Calling 6a+ 20m

Starts right of D'Zuckermuss and climbs the ramp diagonally left to finish at the same lower off

19b La Supertüfi 7a+ 20m

As for London Calling, but continue direct

19c Alles braucht seine Zeit 7a+ 20m

Same start as London Calling and Supertüfi, but move right and then back left to finish at the same lower off

20a Räuber Grapsch 6c+

Start right of Alles braucht seine Zeit and climb the shallow groove. Looks optimistic at 6c+

20b Zwischen Quark und X-Press 6c+

Start as for Räuber Grapsch, move right to climb the rib, and finish at the same lower off

20c Harvest Moon 6a+

Start as for Räuber Grapsch and move further right to climb the wall on pocketed holds

20d Der trojanische Hase 6a+ 22m

Start as for Räuber Grapsch and move even further right 

21 Kojak 4a 23m

The dirty corner

22 Ladykiller 6b+ 17m
23 Best Lover in Town 7a 20m
24a Inneres Feuer 7c

The blunt arete

24b Harassenlauf 7b+

Start as for Inneres Feuer and move right

25a Sick Man Coming 6a 7m

The left hand variant to Wolke 7. Originally graded 6a, but even 8a climbers can have trouble

25b Wolke 7 6a 7m

A hard move in the middle

26 L'Altruiste 5b 10m

The short slab

26e L'Egoiste 7c

The extension to L'Altruiste, a hard boulder problem after L'Altruiste lower off. Same lower off as Space Walk

27 Space cake 6b+ 20m
28 Bellamy 5b 13m

The left hand side of the wall right of Space cake. One bolt

29 Kleines Riesenschwein 4a 13m

Just to the right of Bellamy. No bolts

30 SECTOR

SHOGUN

31 Preussriss 5b 13m
32 Snoopy Dirndl 7c 6m
33 unknown 14m
35 Rien sans soleil 7c 12m
36 Brake the chalk for a wild ride 6a 15m
37 Take a walk on the wild side 6a+ 11m
38 Luxation 6c+ 11m
39 Leberwurst 4a 17m
40 Im Reich des Shogun part 1 8b+ 18m

The original hard route of the crag, superseded 8 years later by part 2.

41 Im Reich des Shoguns part 2 9a+ 19m

Took a total of 13 years to complete, one of the hardest routes in the Basler Jura

42 Bärni 7b 23m
43 Zwischen Urinkur und Rütlischwur 6b 22m

A nice climb with a slippy move at half height