Tüfleten is a relatively large, varied crag with routes to suit most tastes. The climbing is on typical Basler Jura limestone; slabs and steep walls that are smooth and peppered with pockets and edges. The routes are often hard to read on sight. The crag has a sunny disposition, this can be good in the winter but often too hot in summer. The route Shogun is probably the hardest in the Basler Jura. It took the first ascensionist Eric Talmadge13 years until he redpointed it in the year 2000. Since then up to 2018 it has only had two repeats, one by Adam Ondra in 2009 (5th go) and one by Alex Megos in 2017 (one day).
Sport and bolted routes
|Topo Ref||Route||Sport Grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
No bolts. This and Miss Marple are immediately to the left of the Amigo Buttress
The first route on the left hand side of the Amigo Buttress
|09||Amigo di Luna||7b||17m|
|10||Reise ins gelobte Land||7a||28m|
|14||Tüfteln im Tüfleten||6c+||12m||***||
Superb sustained climbing.
A pleasant and sustained route just to the right of Tüfteln im Tüfleten
Starts left of the ivy and climbs up to join diagonal, with a hard move at the third bolt
starts in the ivy on the right and trends up and left
|21||Der trojanische Hase||6a+||22m|
|24||Best Lover in Town||7a||20m|
The left hand side of the wall right of Space cake. One bolt
Just to the right of Bellamy. No bolts
|35||Rien sans soleil||7c||12m|
|36||Brake the chalk for a wild ride||6a||15m|
|37||Take a walk on the wild side||6a+||11m|
|40||Im Reich des Shogun part 1||8b+||18m||
The original hard route of the crag, superseded 8 years later by part 2.
|41||Im Reich des Shoguns part 2||9a+||19m||
Took a total of 13 years to complete, one of the hardest routes in the Basler Jura
|43||Zwischen Urinkur und Rütlischwur||6a||22m|