Vaferdeau

An impressive crag set in a pretty location.

Region
Switzerland - Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
650m
Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
4c - 8a
Faces
South

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
A00 SECTOR A

LES REVES DE PHIL. The first sector just a few minutes from the car

A01 Les filles du feu 6c+

To the left of L'oeuf

A02 L'oeuf de l'ame 6a 20m

Just to the right of the tree growing out of the crag

A03 Asinus pecorum fricat 4b 20m

The corner

A04 Pointe de fuite pour les bravs 4c 20m
A05 Apeirophobie 5c+ 20m
A06 Le vent de l'emportera 6b+ 20m
A07 La dérisoire effervescence 6b 20m
A08 La vie, la mort et tout le bazar 5c 20m
A09 Les voyages de Anne 7a 20m **

Strenuous moves over the first bulge and a boulder problem top roof

A10 Le reve du Phil 7a+ 20m ***
A11 A ton étoile 5c 20m
A12 Attitude en Altitude 6a+ 20m
A13 Phil armonic vertical system 7a 20m

The last route on the left hand side of the gully

A14 Balance au soir 5c

The first route right of the gully

A15 Au bout du doigt 6c
A16 Fleurs d'yeux 6a+ 20m
A17 Dans la joie jusqu'au cou 6c
A18 L'attention du laisser aller 6a+
B00 SECTOR B

LA CABANE. Has a cabin high up on the rock face at the right hand of the sector.

C00 SECTOR C

LES RIPOUX. A fireplace, a bench and some overhangs. A nice sector

C01 Bitman 6c+
C02 Rabin 7a+
C03 Mordillo 6b
C04 Saori 6b 15m

Yellow bolts right of the gully

C05 Le sens de la vie 7c+

Same lower off as the previous route

C06 Conar le Barban 8a+ 25m
C07 Project 25m

The line of bolts right of Conar, to finish at the lower off of Sida Mental. Probably 8b or harder

C08 Sida Mental 8a 25m
C09 Les Ripoux 7a 25m ***

Climb the groove to the bulge and exit left with difficulty. The right hand finish is easier

C10 Right hand finish 7a 25m

As for Les ripoux but exit right at 6c

C11 Project 25m

A rightward trending line between les ripoux and Hansprator. 8b?

C12 Hansprator 7a 10m

short and bouldery with yellow bolts

C13 Clint flip 7a+ 10m

The direct bouldery start to Hansprator

C14 Mécanique satanique 7c 25m
D00 SECTOR D

JOE BROWN. The sector with the longest routes on Vaferdeau

D01 Shiryu 6b+ 15m **

A technical bulge and slab towards the left hand side of the sector. name written at the bottom

D02 Yoga 6a+ 15m **

Climb the groove with a tricky move round the bulge

D10 En souvenir de Roi 6c 25m **

The buttress to the left of the first pitch of Joe Brown

D11 Joe Brown 6a 100m Gold

The classic of the crag, named after the UK crack climbing legend from the 50s and 60s. Start just left of a 4m x1m oblong boulder, the route follows large ring bolts. 1) 6a, climb the crack, ignore the first lower off after 25m and move left and up to a belay. 30m. 2) 5c continue up the crack. 3) 5c continue up the crack 4) 5a continue up the crack! Descend by a well marked path on the right