Morocco

Climbing Area

About 2 hours drive South from Agadir is an area of quartzite cliffs that has been extensively (but far from exhaustively) developed by a number of English climbers. The climbing is everything from single pitch to very long multi pitch routes, all climbed in a traditional fashion without resort to bolts or pegs. The rock is mostly solid, and many of the routes are in the easier grades, particularly the longer ones, however there is something for everyone here, with routes from Mod to E6. If you like traditional climbing, this is the place for you.

Number of routes
1000
Crag

Griffon rock is set in a beautiful valley, very easy to access and with many fine routes, albeit short by Moroccan standards. It is also useful having three faces so that you can choose between the sun and the shade.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
S - E5 with most routes in the E1 / E2 range
Rock Type
Quartzite
Crag

Icebox canyon is one of the premier cliffs in the area. Long pitches, atmospheric routes, and beautiful views deep into the Samazar valley combine to give the canyon a big mountain feel. This is a place to exercise your craft in traditional climbing, not learn it. The routes are mostly well protected, although sometimes run out, especially on the upper, easier pitches. As the name suggests, the canyon gets no sun, and is excellent for hot days, but also still climbable on cooler days, unless a wind is blowing up the gorge.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
HVS - E4
Rock Type
Quartzite
Crag

The Afantizar valley is a lovely, lonely place to climb, and Lower Eagle an excellent cliff with long routes, getting easier the higher you climb. Black Beauty, the prominent streak down the middle of the crag is already a classic, visible from afar.

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
VS - E4
Rock Type
Quartzite
Crag

A small but worthwhile crag with many excellent routes. The Narrow Slit is a deep, dry gorge with climbs on both wings and at the entrance to the gorge. Abseil points at the top of the Amphibian and Scooby Doo.

Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
HVS - E3
Rock Type
Quartzite
Crag

The White Dome is actually a collection of 5 Towers, partly visible from the Tizourgane Kasbah and the road that leads from Ida Ougnidif to the Afantizar valley. The routes are mostly on excellent rock, follow strong natural lines, and many of them are destined to become classics.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
S - E4, with routes predominately in the E1/E2 range
Rock Type
Quartzite