Spain

Crag

A pleasant cliff set amongst olive, almond and cherry trees, the crag of Bixauca offers something at most grades, usually on good, incut and rough holds. The left hand side has some hard, steep tufas, the middle some long middle grade classics (80m rope required), and the right hand side steep, sustained routes.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
5a - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A large wall in a beautiful setting high above the Ager valley. Barranc de Grillons has mostly technical wall climbing on positive holds, including a few low grade routes. It faces due south and so can get very hot. Bolting is good. An excellent place for the winter sun.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
4b - 7a, mostly in the 6b to 7a range
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

An excellent crag of high quality rock in a beautiful location. Ager camp 300 has many slab type routes, that sometimes overhang. Bolting is excellent and the routes are up to 30m in length. The crag faces due south meaning that it can get hot, however the altitude ensures climbing is possible here in the spring and autumn when it is too hot in other locations. The left hand sector is described here, there are two further sectors a bit further right (looking in)

Number of routes
60
Range of Routes
6b - 8b
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A small crag in a beautiful location halfway between Alos de Balaguera and the Noguera Pallaresa dam. The crag faces south, which is too hot in summer, and in winter, the sun does not get high enough over the narrow valley to warm the  rock. This leaves early spring and late autumn as the best months. The crag is  broken in places, however it does have some good routes.

 

Number of routes
25
Range of Routes
6a to 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Another easily accessible, well bolted crag. L'estret has sustained slabby routes on the left hand side and overhanging test pieces in the cave on the right. It is in the sun most of the day, so is best in winter or early / late year

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
6a to 8b
Rock Type
Limestone
Climbing Area

Just north of the town of Balaguer there are a number of good quality limestone cliffs. Balaguer forms a base for visiting these, it is worth an extended visit, there is a lot to do. The area is very quiet and pictueresque with its many small villages, almond groves and large reservoirs. It gets very hot in the summer. Autumn, winter and spring are the ideal times to visit, with crags both in the sun for the winter, and the shade for the hotter days.

Number of routes
2000
Crag

The Crestes de Conill are a very interesting geological formation. Fins of rock, 50m high, that are not much thicker than your car, giving solid, slabby climbing. Conveniently one fin faces due south, the other due north, so you can choose according to the season and time of day which one you climb on. The south face, described here, has the easier routes, nearly all of them of high quality. Oddly there is  lot of undeveloped rock to the right and left of the routes here. Not sure if that is because the rock is of a poorer quality, or just because . . . 

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
5b - 6c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Camaras is a large climbing area with excellent short and long routes. It does not get the sun until the late afternoon. Marcant Estill is just one of the many crags and is popular due to the many low grade routes, shade and ease of access.

Number of routes
100
Rock Type
Limestone
Scrambles and Alpine climbs

Imagine a beach surrounded by mountains and lapped by the warm mediterranean sea. The only foot approach to this beach is a walk of 3km through a dry valley strewn with boulders the size of houses. Goats meander through the tough macqui, and rare birds rest on the rocks as they migrate between Europe and Africa. This is the Boquer valley. Out of season it is one of those special places that you want to visit time and time again. In season unfortunately it can be the target of many holiday makers looking for something a bit more adventurous than the usual day out lying on the beach. Whether in or out of season, the Cavall Bernat ridge is a way to take that little adventure just a bit further and make sure you lose any crowds. Guarding the north side of the valley it drops vertically 300 metres into the sea for a couple of kilometres.

Difficulty
II - steeper sections may need a rope
Time required
Allow 4 to 5 hours for the shorter route. 5 to 6 for the longer
Climbing Area

A winter climbing area with many diverse crags catering for all tastes. From the multi pitch trad and bolted routes on the Peno d'Ifach to the overhanging crags of Gandia, and a bit of everything in between. The climate is excellent, with not too much rain, but relatively warm and plenty of sunshine in the winter months. Climbing is still possible in Spring and Autumn, but in summer it is too hot for all but the shadiest of crags.

Number of routes
3000
Crag

A nice looking crag, situated at the top of a hill, the routes at Cubells are up to 30m in length and one of the few cliffs in the Balaguera area that give (relatively) low grade as well as mid grade routes. The routes are predominately wall climbing on good quality limestone. The grading is tough. The crag itself is beautiful with magnificent views over the Lleida plains to the south, and numerous vultures, falcons and other birds to see.

Number of routes
70
Range of Routes
5b to 7a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A small crag with a handful of easy routes in a  nice setting in the hills behind Jalon. It gets the sun in the afternoon and is sheltered from the wind. Some of the routes have a bit of loose rock, a helmet is useful, and the bolts sometimes feel spaced.

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
Mostly grade 4 and 5
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the afternoon
Crag

An excellent sport climbing crag with routes up to 30m long on steep, solid and sometimes polished limestone. Bolting is very good and there are a variety of routes from steep walls to overhanging tufas. It can get hot even in the middle of winter.

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
Mostly 6a to 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
All day
Crag

Os de Balaguer is a small gorge close to the village from which it gets its name. It has mostly technical climbing on sharp incut holds. The south side is enjoyable in winter, spring and autumn, the north side offers welcome shade from the sun on hot days.

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
6a to 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A pleasant crag that is difficult to find, just outside the village of Pego. It has two buttresses, one right next to the car park with several lower grade routes, and a second, better crag just 10 minutes up the valley. Although not a major cliff, the routes are on the shorter side, some of the climbing is very good.

The upper cliff is described here. The lower cliff has routes from 5a to 5c on the wings, and a couple of 6bs in the middle.

Number of routes
25
Range of Routes
5a - 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Pena Roja is an easily accessible and pleasant crag of red limestone just two kilometres from the village of Jalon in the hills above Calpe. It has some steep walls with routes mostly in the 6b  to 7b range. Bolting is good and the rock is solid, albeit polished in places. it gets the sun in the morning and is understandably popular. In addition  to the established left hand sector there are newer routes on two smaller buttresses of grey rock about 200m further right.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Until about 2pm in winter
Climbing Area

Rodellar is a major climbing area based around the beautiful little village famous for its gorges and canyons. There are over 40 cliffs alongside the river Mascun, where the climbing is mostly steep, well bolted, on good, and often tufa'd limestone. There is not much to offer in the easier grades, a few mid grade routes, with the majority of the routes in the 7a to 9a range. The area is well worth an extended visit, if your arms are up to it. The best seasons are spring and autumn, the winters are too cold and the summers too hot.

Number of routes
1000
Crag

Located just round the corner from the 6s of Criminal Tango, Aquest any si picks up where that crag left off, with a bunch of fine grade 7s. It is a relaxing place to spend the day, with an easy riverside walk, beautiful views of the Dolphin, and bathing possibilites right next to the crag. The routes are not quite so relaxing, being steep and sustained, well worth the visit. Gets the shade mid morning .

Number of routes
15
Range of Routes
6b - 8c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

An excellent cliff with a handful of steep wall climbs on good rock. Gets the sun after about 2pm.

Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
6c - 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A short steep crag that has the advantage of being easily accessible from the village, faces north and is next to a beautiful meadow with a nice swimming pool in the river.

Number of routes
15
Range of Routes
7b-8c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Steep climbing with a few excellent tufa climbs in the mid grades. Getting polished

Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
6b - 7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A small cave with a few short steep routes that has the advantage of shade in the afternoon and being very close to a lovely bathing pool and beach that gets the sun in the afternoon.

Number of routes
5
Range of Routes
7a+ - 7c+
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A useful crag to avoid the sun in the morning and develop your technique on steep, crimpy, polished, well bolted limestone. El camino is an excellent crag although over the years some of the routes have probably got harder. Despite this there are still some fine lines, and perhaps the largest concentration of grade 6a to 6c routes in Rodellar, even if they feel more like 7a. The ease of access makes it good for those who have limited time.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
6a - 7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A small crag next to the river that stays in the shade and is useful as a warm up for harder things, or as challenging routes in their own right

Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
6a - 7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Always in the shade
Crag

Gran Boveda is one of the premier crags in Rodellar with numerous steep and long routes from 7b upwards, and very easy access. It does not get shade until the afternoon, so a relaxing start to the day is posssible,and due to the nature of the routes, you can look forward to a rest day the day after. Being close to the river it gets less wind than some of the other cliffs, an advantage early and late in the season, but means it can get hot when the temperature rises, despite the shade.

Number of routes
60
Range of Routes
6b - 8c
Rock Type
Limestone