Gerakios at sunset

List of Crags

Country: Greece
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Panorama

An excellent and popular crag with tufa climbing on quality rock that is as good as it gets. The tufas can sometimes be greasy on humid windless days.

Limestone 200m 50 6b - 8c South West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Poets

The nearest climbing to Masouri, and thus very popular. Lots of excellent routes on superb rock in all grades.

Limestone 100m 100 West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Prophitis Andreas

High up on the skyline above Skalia, Prophitis Andreas offers beautiful views and lovely climbing on slabs and walls. The rock is mostly good and the routes are long and well equipped.

Limestone 500m 40 South West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Saint Photis

A beautiful walk to a beautiful crag next to the quaint chapel of Saint Photis.

Limestone 100m 50 5c - 8b West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Sea Breeze

An excellent crag for beginners and middle grade climbers with easy access and lovely views over Arginonta bay. The routes are mostly slabs and walls, and many require an 80m rope.

Limestone 100m 100 5a - 6c South Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Secret Garden

Being one of the few crags that gets the shade all day has meant that the once "Secret" Garden has become a "very well known and popular" garden.

Limestone 200m 50 North Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Sikati Cave

An incredible geological feature on the north side of the island. Sikati Cave is a huge hole in the ground 100m tall and 100m wide situated above a beautiful beach.

Limestone 200m 30 7a - 8c North Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Spartacus

A popular crag, with some excellent long and hard routes. Spartacus is a large cave that does not get the sun until late in the day, hence the popularity.

Limestone 300m 50 North West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Spartan Wall and Afternoon

The crags left of Grande Grotta are perfect for climbing in the Afternoon, they do not get the sun until about 4pm.

Limestone 250m 30 4c - 8c East Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Stankill and Ivory Tower

The two sectors Stankill and Ivory Tower are probably the quietest in the Poets / Grande Grotta area, the slightly longer walk thinning the crowds a bit.

Limestone 200m 50 5a - 8a South West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Styx

Sheltered and south facing, the main part of Styx is a sun trap and thus a good crag for the winter months.

Limestone 200m 40 6a - 7b South Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Summertime

One of the few sectors at Kalymnos that gets the shade in the afternoon, so popular with those that stay in bed late.

Limestone 200m 50 East Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Symplegades

A pleasant location high above the southern end of Masouri with climbing in a sort of gorge that has always a sunny and shady side.

Limestone 400m 50 5b - 7a All Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Vathy

Vathy is a pleasant and pictueresque port on the east side of alymnos. It is best know for its Deep Water Soloing crag, but there are also some long sea traverses and a couple of bolted cliffs.

Limestone 12m 20 5c - 7b All Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Berlin Wall

Lots of mid grade walls, with a couple of steeper climbs. Mostly on good rough rock. Gets the sun until about 2pm. The routes have the name written at the bottom.

 

Limestone 300m 20 South East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Cave of Panagia

The slabs and tufas of Panagia offer a variety of climbing. Easy climbing on the slabs, mid grade walls to the left and steep tufas above the ledge.

Limestone 100m 20 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio FRYDI

A small slab of excellent rock, with a few mid grade routes on it. Gets the sun in the morning, and the shade in the afternoon. Route names written at the  bottom of the climbs.

Limestone 200m 10 South East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Grand Cuckoo

A beautiful wall of grey limestone, with a handful of excellent mid grade routes. The rock is very solid, and the protection very good. Not much shade from the sun on hot days.

Limestone 200m 15 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Hada

An excellent overhanging crag protected by big roofs in a large gorge. The steep scramble to the bottom of the routes (not suitable for small children) give the climbs that extra bit of exposure.

Limestone 200m 30 North East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Hot Rock

A popular spot due to the many mid grade slab and wall climbs. It has beautiful views over the surrounding area, solid rock and is well bolted.

Limestone 300m 20 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio La maison des chèvres

Mostly steep and hard, this big cave does have an interesting shelter for the goats, and some easier routes on the flanks. However, it is the hard routes that attract, and they are excellent.

Limestone 500m 20 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Mad & Yellow walls

A bit of a sun trap with excellent well bolted lines on very good grey limestone. Mad Wall is slabby, Yellow Wall a bit steeper. Most of the routes have the names written at the bottom.

Limestone 200m 30 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Mars

A tufa ridden crag of beautiful red limestone, Mars is a paradise for those who like strenuous stalactites and walls.

Limestone 200m South East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Nifada

Developed in 2015 by Austrian climbers Angela Eiter and Bernie Ruech, Nifada is a steep tufa ridden crag on the road between Elona and Kosmas, a few kilometres away from the main Leonidio sites.

Limestone 800m 15 Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio St. Nicholas

Located just above the monastery of St. Nicholas, are some very impressive cliffs, that reach a height of over 100m.

Limestone 500m 30 All Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Twin caves

A crag of two halves. On the left hand side mid grade slabs and cracks, full on in the sun.

Limestone South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Telendos Telendos Eros

A lovely cliff with two distinct climbing styles. The left hand side is steep, smooth and overhanging.

Limestone 300m 25 6a - 8a North East Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Irox

A popular crag right next to where the ferry that takes you to the climbing stops on Telendos. It has routes of all grades from, pleasant slabs to overhanging test pieces.

Limestone 50m 40 5a - 8c North East Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Lambda

Long, sustained, single pitch wall climbs mostly with excellent holds in a beautiful location. An 80m rope is pretty much essential and even then tie a knot in the end.

Limestone 100m 30 South West Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Miltiadis

A very pleasant crag with a variety of routes on rough rock, mostly in the easier grades, but also with a few excellent harder routes.

Limestone 100m 30 5a - 7a North East Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Pescatore

Mainly wall climbing varying from pleasant slabs to overhanging tufas. Excellent routes on solid, sometimes sharp rock up to 30m in height.

Limestone 50m 40 North West Greece - Telendos
Country: Italy
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Italy - Sardinia Baunei - Cala Goloritze

A very special needle, and a very special location. Aguglia Goloritze rises 200m above the emerald green Mediterranean sea.

Limestone 150m 20 All Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Baunei - Punta Giradili

The impressive 400m cliff south of Punta Giradili and east of the small town of Baunei is one of the best big walls in Sardinia, if not the whole of Italy.

Limestone 400m 10 7a - 8a South West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Jerzu - Il Castello

Technical wall climbing requiring strong fingers

Limestone 100 5c - 7b South West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Jerzu - l'Isola del Tesoro

Excellent, often difficult climbing on steep slabs and walls. L'Isola de Tesoro is set in a beautiful location with magnificent views over the surrounding countryside.

Limestone 800m 60 5c - 7c West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Jerzu - Palazzo d'Inverno

Steep climbing on small holds

Limestone 750m 100 6a - 8a South East Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Canyon

Situated just above the town of Ulassai, the canyon is a great summer destination with excellent climbing in all grades.

Limestone 750m 50 5c - 8a, with most interest in the 7s All Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Cave of Dreams

Actually a continuation of the main Ulassai canyon, more easily reached from the sports field north of the town. The cave is a small gorge that gives steep, strenuous climbing on tufas and edges.

Limestone 800m 30 6b - 7c+ All Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Gola di San Giorgio

A real roadside crag, you can almost belay from the car in this impressive little gorge.

Limestone 900m 25 6a - 7a All Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Lecorci

The steep walls of Lecorci offer lots of good, hard climbing that requires strong fingers and good technique. It is very quickly reached and gets the sun in the morning.

Limestone 800m 70 Mostly 7a - 8a East Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Su Casteddu

A huge crag just round the corner from Ulassai. The routes are of excellent quality, and set in a beautiful location.

Limestone 800m 50 5c - 8b West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Torre del Venti

The big obvious crag behind the grassy Barigau Piazza in Ulassai. Torre dei Venti offers steep wall climbing on small holds.

Limestone 800m 20 6b - 8b East Italy - Sardinia
Country: Morocco
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - Griffon Rock

Griffon rock is set in a beautiful valley, very easy to access and with many fine routes, albeit short by Moroccan standards.

Quartzite 1500m 30 S - E5 with most routes in the E1 / E2 range All Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - Icebox Canyon

Icebox canyon is one of the premier cliffs in the area. Long pitches, atmospheric routes, and beautiful views deep into the Samazar valley combine to give the canyon a big mountain feel.

Quartzite 1500m 30 HVS - E4 North Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - Lower Eagle

The Afantizar valley is a lovely, lonely place to climb, and Lower Eagle an excellent cliff with long routes, getting easier the higher you climb.

Quartzite 1500m 20 VS - E4 North West Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - The Narrow Slit

A small but worthwhile crag with many excellent routes. The Narrow Slit is a deep, dry gorge with climbs on both wings and at the entrance to the gorge.

Quartzite 1500m 10 HVS - E3 East Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - The White Dome

The White Dome is actually a collection of 5 Towers, partly visible from the Tizourgane Kasbah and the road that leads from Ida Ougnidif to the Afantizar valley.

Quartzite 1500m 50 S - E4, with routes predominately in the E1/E2 range North West Morocco - Tafraoute
Country: Spain
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Spain - Balaguer Ager - Barranc de Grillons

A large wall in a beautiful setting high above the Ager valley. Barranc de Grillons has mostly technical wall climbing on positive holds, including a few low grade routes.

Limestone 1000m 50 4b - 7a, mostly in the 6b to 7a range South Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Ager - camp 300

An excellent crag of high quality rock in a beautiful location. Ager camp 300 has many slab type routes, that sometimes overhang. Bolting is excellent and the routes are up to 30m in length.

Limestone 1250m 60 6b - 8b South Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Alos de Balaguer - El Raco

A small crag in a beautiful location halfway between Alos de Balaguera and the Noguera Pallaresa dam.

Limestone 300m 25 6a to 8a South Spain - Balaguer