Gerakios at sunset

List of Crags

Country: Greece
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Gerakios Left

Gerakios Left has two cliffs, Rainbow Wall and the Upper Cave. Both are excellent, with routes mostly in the 7s and 8s, although there are a few easier ones.

Limestone 300m 30 6a - 8a South Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Galatiani

A quiet cliff with three distinct sectors. Reservoir Dogs is the nearest to the road and has a handful of long wall climbs on rough rock.

Limestone 300m 40 6a - 8b South Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Poets

The nearest climbing to Masouri, and thus very popular. Lots of excellent routes on superb rock in all grades.

Limestone 100m 100 West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Spartan Wall and Afternoon

The crags left of Grande Grotta are perfect for climbing in the Afternoon, they do not get the sun until about 4pm.

Limestone 250m 30 4c - 8c East Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Kalydna

Big steep orange walls with technical climbing on pockets and crimps. Excellent. Gets the sun after about 14.00, although the right hand parts can be climbed until 16.00

Limestone 100m 50 West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Kalymnos Kalymnos Stankill and Ivory Tower

The two sectors Stankill and Ivory Tower are probably the quietest in the Poets / Grande Grotta area, the slightly longer walk thinning the crowds a bit.

Limestone 200m 50 5a - 8a South West Greece - Kalymnos
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Nifada

Developed in 2015 by Austrian climbers Angela Eiter and Bernie Ruech, Nifada is a steep tufa ridden crag on the road between Elona and Kosmas, a few kilometres away from the main Leonidio sites.

Limestone 800m 15 Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Hada

An excellent overhanging crag protected by big roofs in a large gorge. The steep scramble to the bottom of the routes (not suitable for small children) give the climbs that extra bit of exposure.

Limestone 200m 30 North East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Twin caves

A crag of two halves. On the left hand side mid grade slabs and cracks, full on in the sun.

Limestone South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Hot Rock

A popular spot due to the many mid grade slab and wall climbs. It has beautiful views over the surrounding area, solid rock and is well bolted.

Limestone 300m 20 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Mars

A tufa ridden crag of beautiful red limestone, Mars is a paradise for those who like strenuous stalactites and walls.

Limestone 200m South East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio La maison des chèvres

Mostly steep and hard, this big cave does have an interesting shelter for the goats, and some easier routes on the flanks. However, it is the hard routes that attract, and they are excellent.

Limestone 500m 20 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Berlin Wall

Lots of mid grade walls, with a couple of steeper climbs. Mostly on good rough rock. Gets the sun until about 2pm. The routes have the name written at the bottom.

 

Limestone 300m 20 South East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Grand Cuckoo

A beautiful wall of grey limestone, with a handful of excellent mid grade routes. The rock is very solid, and the protection very good. Not much shade from the sun on hot days.

Limestone 200m 15 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Mad & Yellow walls

A bit of a sun trap with excellent well bolted lines on very good grey limestone. Mad Wall is slabby, Yellow Wall a bit steeper. Most of the routes have the names written at the bottom.

Limestone 200m 30 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio FRYDI

A small slab of excellent rock, with a few mid grade routes on it. Gets the sun in the morning, and the shade in the afternoon. Route names written at the  bottom of the climbs.

Limestone 200m 10 South East Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio Cave of Panagia

The slabs and tufas of Panagia offer a variety of climbing. Easy climbing on the slabs, mid grade walls to the left and steep tufas above the ledge.

Limestone 100m 20 South Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Leonidio Leonidio St. Nicholas

Located just above the monastery of St. Nicholas, are some very impressive cliffs, that reach a height of over 100m.

Limestone 500m 30 All Greece - Leonidio
Greece - Telendos Telendos Irox

A popular crag right next to where the ferry that takes you to the climbing stops on Telendos. It has routes of all grades from, pleasant slabs to overhanging test pieces.

Limestone 50m 40 5a - 8c North East Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Pescatore

Mainly wall climbing varying from pleasant slabs to overhanging tufas. Excellent routes on solid, sometimes sharp rock up to 30m in height.

Limestone 50m 40 North West Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Lambda

Long, sustained, single pitch wall climbs mostly with excellent holds in a beautiful location. An 80m rope is pretty much essential and even then tie a knot in the end.

Limestone 100m 30 South West Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Miltiadis

A very pleasant crag with a variety of routes on rough rock, mostly in the easier grades, but also with a few excellent harder routes.

Limestone 100m 30 5a - 7a North East Greece - Telendos
Greece - Telendos Telendos Eros

A lovely cliff with two distinct climbing styles. The left hand side is steep, smooth and overhanging.

Limestone 300m 25 6a - 8a North East Greece - Telendos
Country: Italy
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Italy - Sardinia Baunei - Punta Giradili

The impressive 400m cliff south of Punta Giradili and east of the small town of Baunei is one of the best big walls in Sardinia, if not the whole of Italy.

Limestone 400m 10 7a - 8a South West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Canyon

Situated just above the town of Ulassai, the canyon is a great summer destination with excellent climbing in all grades.

Limestone 750m 50 5c - 8a, with most interest in the 7s All Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Cave of Dreams

Actually a continuation of the main Ulassai canyon, more easily reached from the sports field north of the town. The cave is a small gorge that gives steep, strenuous climbing on tufas and edges.

Limestone 800m 30 6b - 7c+ All Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Lecorci

The steep walls of Lecorci offer lots of good, hard climbing that requires strong fingers and good technique. It is very quickly reached and gets the sun in the morning.

Limestone 800m 70 Mostly 7a - 8a East Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Torre del Venti

The big obvious crag behind the grassy Barigau Piazza in Ulassai. Torre dei Venti offers steep wall climbing on small holds.

Limestone 800m 20 6b - 8b East Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Jerzu - Il Castello

Technical wall climbing requiring strong fingers

Limestone 100 5c - 7b South West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Jerzu - Palazzo d'Inverno

Steep climbing on small holds

Limestone 750m 100 6a - 8a South East Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Jerzu - l'Isola del Tesoro

Excellent, often difficult climbing on steep slabs and walls. L'Isola de Tesoro is set in a beautiful location with magnificent views over the surrounding countryside.

Limestone 800m 60 5c - 7c West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Gola di San Giorgio

A real roadside crag, you can almost belay from the car in this impressive little gorge.

Limestone 900m 25 6a - 7a All Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Ulassai - Su Casteddu

A huge crag just round the corner from Ulassai. The routes are of excellent quality, and set in a beautiful location.

Limestone 800m 50 5c - 8b West Italy - Sardinia
Italy - Sardinia Baunei - Cala Goloritze

A very special needle, and a very special location. Aguglia Goloritze rises 200m above the emerald green Mediterranean sea.

Limestone 150m 20 All Italy - Sardinia
Country: Morocco
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - The White Dome

The White Dome is actually a collection of 5 Towers, partly visible from the Tizourgane Kasbah and the road that leads from Ida Ougnidif to the Afantizar valley.

Quartzite 1500m 50 S - E4, with routes predominately in the E1/E2 range North West Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - The Narrow Slit

A small but worthwhile crag with many excellent routes. The Narrow Slit is a deep, dry gorge with climbs on both wings and at the entrance to the gorge.

Quartzite 1500m 10 HVS - E3 East Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - Griffon Rock

Griffon rock is set in a beautiful valley, very easy to access and with many fine routes, albeit short by Moroccan standards.

Quartzite 1500m 30 S - E5 with most routes in the E1 / E2 range All Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - Icebox Canyon

Icebox canyon is one of the premier cliffs in the area. Long pitches, atmospheric routes, and beautiful views deep into the Samazar valley combine to give the canyon a big mountain feel.

Quartzite 1500m 30 HVS - E4 North Morocco - Tafraoute
Morocco - Tafraoute Tafraoute North - Lower Eagle

The Afantizar valley is a lovely, lonely place to climb, and Lower Eagle an excellent cliff with long routes, getting easier the higher you climb.

Quartzite 1500m 20 VS - E4 North West Morocco - Tafraoute
Country: Spain
Region Crag Overview Rock Type Altitude Number of routes Range of Routes Faces Name
Spain - Balaguer Camarasa - Marcant Estil

Camaras is a large climbing area with excellent short and long routes. It does not get the sun until the late afternoon.

Limestone 300m 100 North West Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Ager - Barranc de Grillons

A large wall in a beautiful setting high above the Ager valley. Barranc de Grillons has mostly technical wall climbing on positive holds, including a few low grade routes.

Limestone 1000m 50 4b - 7a, mostly in the 6b to 7a range South Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Santa Linya - Cova Gran

Cova Gran is one of the most important hard sport climbing crags in the world. Certainly if the density of one pitch hard routes is the measure, it takes a lot of beating.

Limestone 250m 70 7b - 9b South Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Camarasa - Crestes de Conill South

The Crestes de Conill are a very interesting geological formation. Fins of rock, 50m high, that are not much thicker than your car, giving solid, slabby climbing.

Limestone 250m 30 5b - 6c South Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Terradets - Paret de les Bruixes

Terradets is a very impressive gorge in the Serra del Montsec 40km or so North of Balaguer. Amongst the many big walls is the single pitch sport crag, Paret de les Bruixes.

Limestone 400m 50 7a to 9a South West Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Os de Balaguer

Os de Balaguer is a small gorge close to the village from which it gets its name. It has mostly technical climbing on sharp incut holds.

Limestone 500m 100 6a to 8a South Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Tartareu

A long escarpment with hundreds of routes up to 25m in length. It faces east and gets the sun until about 1pm, although this varies a bit according to the sector.

Limestone 600m 200 Mostly 6a to 8a East Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Santa Ana left bank

Santa Ana is a major climbing area next to the large dam of the river Noguera Ribagorcana which forms the Santa Ana reservoir. The river acts as the border between Catalonia and Aragon.

Limestone 200m 200 mostly 6a to 8a All Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer St. LLorenc de Montgal

A large climbing area in a beautiful location next to the reservoirs of Panté de Saint LLorenc de Montgal. The crags face south and are a mixture of solid red limestone and conglomerate.

Limestone 250m 200 All All Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Alos de Balaguer - El Raco

A small crag in a beautiful location halfway between Alos de Balaguera and the Noguera Pallaresa dam.

Limestone 300m 25 6a to 8a South Spain - Balaguer
Spain - Balaguer Alos de Balaguer - L'Estret

Another easily accessible, well bolted crag. L'estret has sustained slabby routes on the left hand side and overhanging test pieces in the cave on the right.

Limestone 300m 20 6a to 8b South Spain - Balaguer