Tour St. Jacques

Logbook

# User Crag Date climbed Route Style Sport grade Boulder grade Trad grade Quality Notes Edit
1 mike421 Grotte des Nains Preparation H Redpoint 7a **

1st try today after working it last week

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2 mike421 Grotte des Nains Tip Flash 6c+ ***

Excellent tufa climbing. Put the clips in on abseil from Simple

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3 mike421 Grotte des Nains Simple Redpoint 6b+ **

One mistake near the top

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4 mike421 Grotte des Nains Preparation H Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a **

Worked this again to try to get some fitness back

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5 mike421 Grotte des Nains Sanduhr Redpoint 6b **

1st route after confinement :-)

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6 acarion Redelsflue Fuck au vin Led onsight 6c+ * Nice start but upper part is a bit runout on easy ground Edit
7 acarion Redelsflue Sperm spumante Redpoint 7a *** Better quality and harder than the route to the right. Edit
8 acarion Redelsflue Alles wird gut Led onsight 6a+ * This felt hard and a bit exposed. Edit
9 acarion Redelsflue Deeper with the dildo darling Led onsight 6a 0 An okay warm up. Tricky first moves because holds are hard to see Edit
10 mike421 Orgon Seance nocturne Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
11 mike421 Orgon Carrefour aux oies Led onsight 6a * Edit
12 mike421 Orgon Avertissement de conduite Top rope/second 6c ** Edit
13 mike421 Orgon La porte tragique Led onsight 5b * Edit
14 mike421 Orgon Chic Planete Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
15 mike421 Kalymnos Arhi Orione Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
16 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Mambo Led onsight 6b+ ***

A lovely climb but very greasy

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17 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Rock n Roll Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a **

One fall/rest. Felt hard for the grade

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18 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Surumoni Redpoint 6c+ ***

Lowered off the 2nd bolt due to the slippy holds, then restarted and finished it

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19 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Aroma Led onsight 6a **

Pleasant

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20 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Paddy Led onsight 6b **

Very nice

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21 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Sam Spade Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7c **

Got to the last bolt on my 4th attempt today.

 

Beta: Pre clipped 1st 2 bolts. The crux is getting the grey sloping holds in the corner after the 4th bolt. Clip the 4th bolt with left hand on a layaway and right foot bridged up to the right. Take a good undercut with the right hand and make a long stretch for the grey sloper. Toe hook with the right foot, move the right hand to the slopers, then move the left to a small undercut tufa. This helps stop the swing when you release the right foot. I then snatch up and left for a better grey hold, clip and dyno for big jugs. Try to recover here for the next moves, almost no hands rest high up and left. Then clip and right hand up for an intermediate hold, right hand again for a big hold. The last move past the pocket is right hand at RHS, left hand to undercut, right hand to LHS , foot up and stretch with left for a finger lock for left hand. Hang this and use the pinch just above it to snatch for a large layaway and clip the lower off.

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22 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Statler + Waldorf Led onsight 6a **

Short but nice

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23 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Perfect stranger Redpoint 7a ***

Fell off first time

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24 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Batsi makria mas Led onsight 6a **

Pleasant except a goat on sighted it after us!

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25 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Season of the witch Led onsight 6c **

Felt hard through the bulge.

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26 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia M40 Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7b ***

excellent route, sustained. 2 attempts, 1 fall + 2 rests 2nd time

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27 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia The end of Mythos Led onsight 6c *** Edit
28 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Kalo taxidi yiayia mou Led onsight 6b+ ** Edit
29 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Ikariotissa Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
30 mike421 Kalymnos Poets Styx Led onsight 6a+ **

On sight but I might have done it before

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31 mike421 Kalymnos Iannis Eclat de soleil Redpoint 7a+ ***

At last red pointed this route

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32 mike421 Kalymnos Iannis Sevasti Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7b *

The hard final move was ok, but the rest was a horror, slippy, shiny holds on a sweaty day 

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33 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Amelia Led onsight 6c *** Edit
34 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Sam Spade Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7c ** Edit
35 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Greek Freak Led onsight 6b *** Edit
36 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Billie Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
37 mike421 Kalymnos Arginonta skyline I've been wild Led onsight 6c ** Edit
38 mike421 Kalymnos Arginonta skyline Highlight Flash 7b **

Had the quickdraws in, quite technical.

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39 mike421 Kalymnos Arginonta skyline Fateve na canna Led onsight 6c+ **

Nice tufa, short lived

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40 mike421 Kalymnos Arginonta skyline Crystal Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
41 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Tantalus Led onsight 6b ** Edit
42 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Bellerophon Led onsight 6a+ * Edit
43 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Mallory Led onsight 6c+ **

Tricky technical moves

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44 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Captain Heelhook Led onsight 7a ***

quickdraws in place. Low in the grade

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45 mike421 Kalymnos Nikoleta Koukouvagia Redpoint 7b+ ***

Excellent, the crux is the 6th clip

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46 mike421 Kalymnos Iliada Agamemnon Led onsight 6b *

A bit too close to the route on the left

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47 mike421 Kalymnos Iliada Glyka maniak Redpoint 6c * Edit
48 mike421 Kalymnos Nikoleta Koukouvagia Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7b+ ***

One block trying to clip

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49 mike421 Kalymnos Poets Reins Beaux Led onsight 6c *** Edit
50 mike421 Kalymnos Poets O'Brothers Led onsight 6b+ **

getting polished but nice cliimbing between pockets

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