Tour St. Jacques

Logbook

# User Crag Date climbed Route Style Sport grade Boulder grade Trad grade Quality Notes Edit
1 mike421 Simplon Dorf Stradineri Led onsight 6b *** Edit
2 mike421 Simplon Dorf Zebra ad Infinitum Led onsight 6c+ ** Edit
3 mike421 Simplon Dorf André am Bolzen Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a+ **

A couple of rests, there are several hard moves

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4 mike421 Simplon Dorf Wiiwassergschirrli Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a ***

Was too tired to lead it without several rests. I tried to top rope it afterwards, but still needed rests!

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5 mike421 Simplon Dorf Villariba Led onsight 6b ***

pumpy, good for a warm up

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6 mike421 Simplon Dorf Paris-Verzi Led onsight 6c ** Edit
7 mike421 Simplon Dorf Hip hop on theTop Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a ***

One rest/fall trying to reach the two finger pocket

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8 mike421 Simplon Dorf Hippiehasser Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a **

On rest by the crux move, not obvious, found a small crimp for the left hand, then a lurch for the ledge

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9 mike421 Chuenisberg Ravage Faillite politique Climbed it, but didn't do all the moves 7b *

Couldn't do the boulder problem move, and the top was wet

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10 mike421 Chuenisberg Ravage Political Bassa Bassa Climbed it, but didn't do all the moves 7b **

Couldn't do the move past the mono, but managed the rest

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11 mike421 Chuenisberg Ravage Kampf der Giganten Climbed it all, with rests/falls 6b **

Flashed it to the last move before falling off. Soaking wet.

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12 mike421 Chastelfluh Kreuzung der Wasserköpfe Led onsight 6b **

Nice with one tricky move in the middle

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13 mike421 Chastelfluh Cortége der Verlierer Redpoint 6c *

Sort of redpointed it. Got to the crux, fell off, clipped the next bolt and climbed it from the no hands rest

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14 mike421 Grotte des Nains Preparation H Redpoint 7a **

1st try today after working it last week

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15 mike421 Grotte des Nains Tip Flash 6c+ ***

Excellent tufa climbing. Put the clips in on abseil from Simple

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16 mike421 Grotte des Nains Simple Redpoint 6b+ **

One mistake near the top

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17 mike421 Grotte des Nains Preparation H Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a **

Worked this again to try to get some fitness back

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18 mike421 Grotte des Nains Sanduhr Redpoint 6b **

1st route after confinement :-)

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19 acarion Redelsflue Fuck au vin Led onsight 6c+ * Nice start but upper part is a bit runout on easy ground Edit
20 acarion Redelsflue Sperm spumante Redpoint 7a *** Better quality and harder than the route to the right. Edit
21 acarion Redelsflue Alles wird gut Led onsight 6a+ * This felt hard and a bit exposed. Edit
22 acarion Redelsflue Deeper with the dildo darling Led onsight 6a 0 An okay warm up. Tricky first moves because holds are hard to see Edit
23 mike421 Orgon Seance nocturne Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
24 mike421 Orgon Carrefour aux oies Led onsight 6a * Edit
25 mike421 Orgon Avertissement de conduite Top rope/second 6c ** Edit
26 mike421 Orgon La porte tragique Led onsight 5b * Edit
27 mike421 Orgon Chic Planete Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
28 mike421 Kalymnos Arhi Orione Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
29 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Mambo Led onsight 6b+ ***

A lovely climb but very greasy

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30 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Rock n Roll Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7a **

One fall/rest. Felt hard for the grade

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31 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Surumoni Redpoint 6c+ ***

Lowered off the 2nd bolt due to the slippy holds, then restarted and finished it

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32 mike421 Kalymnos Noufaro Aroma Led onsight 6a **

Pleasant

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33 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Paddy Led onsight 6b **

Very nice

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34 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Sam Spade Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7c **

Got to the last bolt on my 4th attempt today.

 

Beta: Pre clipped 1st 2 bolts. The crux is getting the grey sloping holds in the corner after the 4th bolt. Clip the 4th bolt with left hand on a layaway and right foot bridged up to the right. Take a good undercut with the right hand and make a long stretch for the grey sloper. Toe hook with the right foot, move the right hand to the slopers, then move the left to a small undercut tufa. This helps stop the swing when you release the right foot. I then snatch up and left for a better grey hold, clip and dyno for big jugs. Try to recover here for the next moves, almost no hands rest high up and left. Then clip and right hand up for an intermediate hold, right hand again for a big hold. The last move past the pocket is right hand at RHS, left hand to undercut, right hand to LHS , foot up and stretch with left for a finger lock for left hand. Hang this and use the pinch just above it to snatch for a large layaway and clip the lower off.

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35 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Statler + Waldorf Led onsight 6a **

Short but nice

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36 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Perfect stranger Redpoint 7a ***

Fell off first time

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37 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Batsi makria mas Led onsight 6a **

Pleasant except a goat on sighted it after us!

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38 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Season of the witch Led onsight 6c **

Felt hard through the bulge.

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39 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia M40 Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7b ***

excellent route, sustained. 2 attempts, 1 fall + 2 rests 2nd time

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40 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia The end of Mythos Led onsight 6c *** Edit
41 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Kalo taxidi yiayia mou Led onsight 6b+ ** Edit
42 mike421 Kalymnos Balcony Helvetia Ikariotissa Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
43 mike421 Kalymnos Poets Styx Led onsight 6a+ **

On sight but I might have done it before

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44 mike421 Kalymnos Iannis Eclat de soleil Redpoint 7a+ ***

At last red pointed this route

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45 mike421 Kalymnos Iannis Sevasti Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7b *

The hard final move was ok, but the rest was a horror, slippy, shiny holds on a sweaty day 

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46 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Amelia Led onsight 6c *** Edit
47 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Sam Spade Climbed it all, with rests/falls 7c ** Edit
48 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Greek Freak Led onsight 6b *** Edit
49 mike421 Kalymnos Heroes Billie Led onsight 6a+ ** Edit
50 mike421 Kalymnos Arginonta skyline I've been wild Led onsight 6c ** Edit