Spain - Costa Blanca

The area north of Alicante

 

Crag

A pleasant cliff set amongst olive, almond and cherry trees, the crag of Bixauca offers something at most grades, usually on good, incut and rough holds. The left hand side has some hard, steep tufas, the middle some long middle grade classics (80m rope required), and the right hand side steep, sustained routes.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
5a - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Climbing Area

A winter climbing area with many diverse crags catering for all tastes. From the multi pitch trad and bolted routes on the Peno d'Ifach to the overhanging crags of Gandia, and a bit of everything in between. The climate is excellent, with not too much rain, but relatively warm and plenty of sunshine in the winter months. Climbing is still possible in Spring and Autumn, but in summer it is too hot for all but the shadiest of crags.

Number of routes
3000
Crag

A small crag with a handful of easy routes in a  nice setting in the hills behind Jalon. It gets the sun in the afternoon and is sheltered from the wind. Some of the routes have a bit of loose rock, a helmet is useful, and the bolts sometimes feel spaced.

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
Mostly grade 4 and 5
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the afternoon
Crag

An excellent sport climbing crag with routes up to 30m long on steep, solid and sometimes polished limestone. Bolting is very good and there are a variety of routes from steep walls to overhanging tufas. It can get hot even in the middle of winter.

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
Mostly 6a to 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
All day
Crag

A pleasant crag that is difficult to find, just outside the village of Pego. It has two buttresses, one right next to the car park with several lower grade routes, and a second, better crag just 10 minutes up the valley. Although not a major cliff, the routes are on the shorter side, some of the climbing is very good.

The upper cliff is described here. The lower cliff has routes from 5a to 5c on the wings, and a couple of 6bs in the middle.

Number of routes
25
Range of Routes
5a - 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Pena Roja is an easily accessible and pleasant crag of red limestone just two kilometres from the village of Jalon in the hills above Calpe. It has some steep walls with routes mostly in the 6b  to 7b range. Bolting is good and the rock is solid, albeit polished in places. it gets the sun in the morning and is understandably popular. In addition  to the established left hand sector there are newer routes on two smaller buttresses of grey rock about 200m further right.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Until about 2pm in winter
Crag

One of the best crags in the area, if you climb 7b and above. Long, steep routes up to 40m in length. Wild side is nearly always in the shade, which coupled with the altitude means that it can be cold in winter, although the routes will keep you warm. It is steep, and sheltered from the rain.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
7a - 8c
Rock Type
Limestone
Scrambles and Alpine climbs

A long, strenuous and in parts technical ridge walk with beautiful views above the Costa Blanca coastline and to Puig Campana. For the full traverse, a 50m rope for the abseils is required. Take also a small set of wires, a few quickdraws and slings, and depending on your ability to lead 4+ in trainers/walking boots, some rock climbing shoes might be handy.

Difficulty
III - long steep sections. Use of technical equipment necessary
Time required
6 to 7 hours from car to car