Switzerland - Bernese Oberland

The high mountains south of Bern, around Grindelwald

 

Climbing Area

The Engelhörner is a huge area of bizarre limestone peaks offering many long alpine routes with some excellent multi pitch sport routes mixed in. The small Engelhörner hut at the foot of the peaks makes an excellent base for the routes, with a warm welcome and friendly hosts. The area is complex and can be a bit confusing on the first visit. There are a large number of peaks, the most popular ones being those that circle around the Ochsetal that leads up from the hut.

Number of routes
100
Crag

It looks like a friendly Swiss crag, but Kingspitze is actually a major Alpine undertaking.

Number of routes
1
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

At the left hand side of the cirque of cliffs surrounding the Ochsel valley are three impressive peaks. Klein Simeler, gross Simeler and Vorderspitze are connected by a long ridge climb and several modern classics taking direct lines to the summits. All of the hard routes are well protected with bolts, some backup wires and friends useful.

Number of routes
12
Rock Type
Limestone

The big green peak. A curious name since it is white for most of the year, maybe black and white at best. It has a wonderful summit, and outstanding views over the Aletsch glacier and the other nearby 4000m mountains. Is it easy to get to the top of it? Well yes. But. In 2011 the reputed Swiss mountaineer Erhard Loretan died just below the summit guiding a female client, after which a spokesman for the Wallis police infamously said "it is not a particularly dangerous mountain". Maybe I climbed a different mountain.

Start Altitude
2850m
Finish Altitude
4040m
Height gain
1300m
Difficulty
ZS
Time to climb
5 to 6 hours from Komkordiahütte to Gross Grünhorn