Baume les Dames - Sous Buen
Sous Buen is a pleasant crag in a beautiful location overlooking the Doubs. It has single pitch routes in all grades from 3 to 8, up to 30m in length, many with the name written at the bottom. It is well bolted, has easy access,and as a result is very popular. Some of the older routes are polished, which can be a problem on hot days. There are however many newer routes still in good condition, and the crag gets the shade in the afternoon. There are not so many routes in the very hard grades, but the tough grading makes up for this! There is lots of interesting wildlife, in particular the kestrels that nest on the crag, plus many other interesting species of bird. Allegedly wall creepers, although these are not often seen.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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b | SECTOR B | LA LAME R |
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b01 | D-day | 6b | 25m | ![]() |
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b02 | Gaillard | 6b+ | 25m | ![]() |
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b03 | Bigdil | 6c+ | 25m | Same start as Gaillard, but goes direct |
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b04 | la ballade des anciens | 6c | 20m | ![]() |
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b05 | fenetres sur Cour | 6c | 20m | ![]() |
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b06 | Plein Sud | 6c+ | 25m | 4a to first lower off |
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b07 | Iris | 7a+ | 25m | 4b to first lower off |
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b08 | Joséphine | 4b | 10m | ![]() |
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b09 | Verte et jaune | 4c | 10m | ![]() |
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b10 | Fleur de roc | 6c | 25m | 5c to first lower off |
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b11 | La lame | 5c+ | 25m | ![]() |
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b12 | Atchoum | 5c+ | 25m | 5b to first lower off |
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b13 | Simplet | 4b | 20m | ![]() |
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b14 | Joyeux | 5c | 20m | ![]() |
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b15 | Dormeur | 4a | 20m | ![]() |
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b16 | Timide | 4b | 15m | ![]() |
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b17 | prof. | 5b | 15m | same lower off as Timide |
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b18 | Grincheux | 5a | 15m | ![]() |
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c | SECTOR C | LA LAME V. Opposite pilier des pirates |
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c01 | Cote Atlantique | 5b | 20m | ![]() |
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c02 | La cascade | 5b | 20m | ![]() |
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c03 | l'ane Paulo | 5b | 20m | ![]() |
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c04 | Double face | 5b | 20m | ![]() |
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c05 | Humour et humus | 5c | 20m | ![]() |
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d | SECTOR D | PILIER DES PIRATES |
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d01 | à l'abordage | 6b+ | 35m | ![]() |
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d02 | jésafa | 6b | 35m | ![]() |
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d03 | Pilier des pirates | 6a+ | 30m | Gold | An excellent line going direct up the pillar. Polished but the holds are positive. |
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d04 | La grapsotte | 5c | *** | A tricky move in the middle |
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d05 | le flibustier | 5c+ | 35m | ![]() |
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d06 | Trafic sur le doubs | 5c | 35m | ![]() |
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d07 | Tour d'ivoire | 5c+ | 35m | ![]() |
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d08 | Tour de bras | 6a | 35m | ![]() |
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d09 | à bras raccourci | 6c+ | 35m | ![]() |
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d10 | La voix des celtes | 5c+ | 30m | ![]() |
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d11 | Tieno | 5c+ | 25m | ![]() |
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d12 | Sébus | 6a | 25m | ![]() |
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d13 | Yacacliké | 5c | 25m | ![]() |
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d14 | Adibou | 5c | 15m | ![]() |
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d15 | Clic | 5c | 15m | ![]() |
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f | SECTOR F | ESCALATOR |
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f01 | Exodus | 7a | 20m | At the left hand side of the Escalator buttress. Climb over the first roof and traverse left before the second |
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f02 | Ice cream | 7c | 20m | Goes direct where Exodus goes left |
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f03 | Dry tooling | 7c+ | 20m | ![]() |
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f04 | Escalator | 7b+ | 20m | ![]() |
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f05 | Peturbation | 7b+ | 20m | ![]() |
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f06 | el diablo | 7b | 20m | ![]() |
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f07 | L'évadé des baumettes | 7b+ | 20m | ![]() |
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f08 | AC2N | 7c | 20m | ![]() |
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f09 | L'amour rend aveugle | 7b | 20m | ![]() |
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f10 | L'usine du plein air | 7a | 20m | ** | Swing left at the top of a strangely bolted corner, and make a difficult move on good holds over the lip |
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i | SECTOR I | LES COPAINS D'ABORD The rock is not always solid, but some nice lines |
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i01 | Remix | 6c+ | 20m | ** | Fingery wall climbing with a couple of bold clips |
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i02 | Ca sonne ccreux | 6b | 20m | Goes direct up the arete where remix moves left |
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i03 | les copains d'abord | 6a | 20m | ![]() |
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i04 | annamo | 6c | 20m | ** | Fingery pulls |
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i05 | Balafre | 5c+ | 20m | same start as Béthanie |
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i06 | Béthanie 2007 | 6b | 20m | Moves right where Balafre goes direct |
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i07 | etoile | 6b | ** | Hard pulls round the roof, even harder for the short |
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i08 | le yoyo | 6b+ | 20m | starts just to the right of étoile |
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i09 | Chemin de traverse | 6b+ | 20m | starts on the RHS of les copains and traverses left |
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j | SECTOR J | DÉBLOC Lots of fine short easier routes |
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J01 | Moulti-pass | 4c | 20m | ![]() |
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j02 | L'entente franco-portugaise | 4b | 20m | ![]() |
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j03 | Memory of a rolling stone | 4a | 20m | ![]() |
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j04 | Big job | 4b | 20m | ![]() |
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j05 | Jusqu'à l'os | 4a | 20m | ![]() |
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j06 | ephémère | 4c | 20m | ![]() |
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j07 | Chantons sous la pluie | 4b | 20m | ![]() |
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j08 | Reve de fille | 5b | 20m | ![]() |
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j09 | monsieur Propre | 6b | 20m | ** | Climb up to the layback flake, and avoid climbing this with a tricky move right to the arete |
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j10 | Débloc | 5c | 20m | ![]() |
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j11 | Castabloc | 6a | 20m | ** | balancy climbing to the groove, climb into this with difficulty |
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j12 | Petite enfance | 5c | 20m | ![]() |
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j13 | c'est pas gagné | 5c+ | 20m | ![]() |
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j14 | Classeu dans le style | 5c | 20m | ![]() |
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j15 | Tu ris hobbit | 6a | 20m | ![]() |
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j16 | Période d'opposition | 6b | 20m | ![]() |
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j17 | C'est pas 6a | 5c+ | 20m | ![]() |
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j18 | et c'est reparti | 5c+ | 20m | ** | A hard boulder problem start, then more pleasant |
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j19 | Fausse éthique | 7a+ | 20m | * | Tough |
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l | SECTOR L | TITANIC |
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l01 | Titanic | 5b | 25m | ![]() |
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l02 | la varappe, l'argent, ma haine, mon temps | 7a | 25m | *** | technical first wall followed by pumpy overhangs |
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l02a | unknown | 25m | wall between varappe and vol |
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l03 | vol au dessous d'un nid de culs nus | 5c+ | 25m | *** | boulder problem start then pleasant climbing |
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l04 | Les dièdres à Dédé | 6b+ | 25m | ![]() |
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l05 | Pour les beaux yeux de Sylvie | 6b+ | 25m | ![]() |
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l06 | Grève de narines | 6a+ | 25m | ** | ![]() |
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l07 | Gare a la martre | 5c+ | 25m | ![]() |
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l08 | La surprise de l'ecureuil | 6c+ | 25m | ![]() |
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l09 | Terre a l'eau | 5b | 25m | ![]() |
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l10 | Expérience 1ére | 6a | 25m | ![]() |
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l10 | Rancho de Cuba | 5c | 25m | ![]() |
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l12 | Les rameurs | 6b+ | 25m | ![]() |
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l13 | Fi sur la fissure | 6a+ | 25m | ![]() |
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l14 | Tordagerie | 6c | 25m | ![]() |
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l15 | Chochoye | 6a+ | 25m | ![]() |
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l16 | Piccolissima | 6b | 25m | ![]() |
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l17 | Spigolo | 7a | 25m | ![]() |
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m | SECTOR M | LE COUDE |
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m01 | Scenario | 7b | 25m | The overhanging arete with a difficult exit |
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m02 | Court métrage | 6a+ | 25m | Start up the corner and move out left |
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m03 | Image | 6a+ | 25m | Same start as the previous route but continue direct up the corner |
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m04 | Infortune | 6c | 25m | Starts just to the right of image |
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m05 | Arc de lune | 6c+ | 30m | The line of weakness left of friction, starting in the same place |
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m06 | Friction | 7a+ | 30m | ** | The centre of the clean wall. Sustained |
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m07 | Du vent dans les cordes | 6a+ | *** | The excellent corner with a technical start |
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m08 | Border line | 7b | 30m | The line of bolts between "du vent" and "dancing wall" |
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m09 | Dancing wall | 6b+ | 30m | The line of flakes left of the large corner of "du vent" |
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m10 | Dancing wall right hand finish | 6c | 30m | Moves right at the top of Dancing wall |
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m11 | Avec vue sur le doubs | 7a+ | 30m | *** | Climbs to the tufa and then moves left, followed by technical moves up the blank wall and sustained but easier climbing to a finish on big holds |
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m12 | reptile | 7c | 30m | As for the previous route but move right at the tufa |
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m13 | No limit | 7b | 30m | ![]() |
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m14 | Dioxine | 7b+ | 30m | ![]() |
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m15 | Le grande patétras | 7b | 30m | ![]() |