Gandia
An excellent sport climbing crag with routes up to 30m long on steep, solid and sometimes polished limestone. Bolting is very good and there are a variety of routes from steep walls to overhanging tufas. It can get hot even in the middle of winter.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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05z | SECTOR HIDRAULICS | THE STEEP CAVE TO THE LEFT OF SECTOR VICI |
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06 | Coral bajilla | 5c | 15m | ![]() |
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07 | Monsters of Rock | 7a | 15m | Hand traverses the lip of the roof to reach the same lower off as the next route |
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08 | Pequeno saltamontes | 5b | 15m | Cimbs up through the hole to reach the previous lower off. A much easier and more fun way to get to the same place! |
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09 | Erupcion | 5b | A traverse that continues from the previous route past the top of the next routes to reach the lower off of Blaniulus |
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10 | Assassi de vampiros | 7a | 15m | ![]() |
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11 | Negue Gorrak | 7c+ | 15m | ![]() |
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12 | Pythophthora cithrophthora | 7b | ![]() |
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13 | Quien malonda | 7a+ | 15m | ![]() |
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14 | Spherique Voice | 7a+ | 15m | Same start as Quien malonda, then moves right |
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15 | Parabolic | 7b | A short route up the left hand side of the tufa. Possible to continue up the previous route (7b) |
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16 | Kortatu | 7b | The right hand side of the tufa |
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17 | Viatge a Cuba | 7b | 15m | ![]() |
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18 | Blaniulus gluttulatus | 7a | 15m | ![]() |
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19 | Patatas a lo pobre | 7b+ | 20m | ![]() |
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20 | Asamblea de Mojaras | 7c+ | 18m | ![]() |
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21 | Ostia coqueta | 7a+ | 18m | same lower off as Asamblea |
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22 | Zucaricida | 6c | 25m | Climb the slab until it is possible to move onto the left wall and follow this on pockets to the lower off |
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23 | Lei del perrerro | 6c+ | 25m | A right hand variant to Zucaricida, ending at the same lower off |
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23z | SECTOR VICI | THE SECTOR WHERE THE PATH MEETS THE CRAG. LOTS OF EXCELLENT MID GRADE CLASSICS |
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24 | Fisura tal | 6a+ | 25m | The long groove and wall |
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25 | Pastor i porreta | 6c | 25m | The sharp wall just to the right finishing at the same lower off |
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26 | Nina we porcelana | 6a+ | 25m | Also finishes at the same lower off as the two previous routes |
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27 | Gora | 7a | 20m | ![]() |
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28 | Pa Roig | 6b | 30m | Climbs the grey wall left of the red streak to a lower off at 20m. Continue more easily to the lower off of the next route. |
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29 | Asquerosa coincidencia | 6c | Follows the left hand side of the prominent red streak past a lower off to finish through a small roof. |
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30 | El sol | 6b+ | 25m | A classic line up the right hand side of the red streak to the crux roof |
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31 | Kin mal d'ous | 7b | 10m | A short route out of the cave |
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32 | Escorreguda precoc | 6c | 25m | Strart just to the right of the small cave, and move left over the lip to continue up the wall |
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33 | Peiote de bote | 6b | 30m | *** | Where the footpath arrives at the crag is a small cave. Climb direct just to the right of the cave. A tricky first few moves then sustained up to and through the roof. Excellent |
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34 | Valentet de Valencia | 6b | 30m | Climb the wall behind the tree to the bulge. Excellent |
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35 | Placa de Ulaca | 6b | 25m | Climb the grey wall past a tree |
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36 | Muricana | 6b | 25m | ![]() |
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37 | Nacio | 6b+ | 25m | A good pitch up the wall right of the cave |
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38 | Madarikatuak | 6c+ | 15m | Starts at a flake behind a tree. Very hard at this grade if you follow the line of the bolts |
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39 | Chiqui | 6c+ | 15m | ![]() |
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40 | Fes-te-ho | 6a+ | 15m | ![]() |
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41 | En falles no folles | 6b | 35m | The long left hand line up to and over the roof |
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42 | Capitan Manchengo | 6a | 30m | Same start as the previous route, but move right after a few metres to a lower off below the roof. |
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43 | Kaya | 6b+ | 25m | Climb up to and through the bulges |
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43z | SECTOR FUNDICIO | A hundred metres right from the approach path is a WHITE BOWL SHAPED SECTION OF CRAG with many steep routes out of it. The first climbs are to the left of this bowl. |
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44 | Sense opcio | 6b | 20m | Climbs up to the orange wall and through the roof |
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45 | Nupcias | 6b+ | 20m | ![]() |
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46 | Milan Kundera | 6a+ | 20m | The thin crack in the steep groove |
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47 | Chitiri, chitiri | 4c | 20m | A pleasant, relatively easy route up the steep grey wall |
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48 | La insuportable | 6a | 20m | ![]() |
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49 | El ser | 5b | 15m | A shorter route |
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49 | La levedad | 6a | 20m | ![]() |
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50 | Bombero gorilero | 6a | 20m | ![]() |
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51 | Tamborinaes 93 | 6a+ | 20m | ![]() |
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52 | El Rigio | 6b+ | 20m | The first of the thuggy routes |
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53 | Pepestroika | 6b | 15m | Climb up to the hanging tufa at 4m and make a hard move up and left to a big jug. Then follow equal sized holds all the way to the lower off. Very satisfying. |
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54 | Ultima Albertencia | 6c+ | 15m | Climb to the large hole and continue on good but spaced holds to the lower off. A fun route |
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55 | Amarrada el pillo | 6b+ | 20m | Follow the pockets rightwards to the overlap then continue on good holds to the lower off |
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56 | Pere | 6c+ | 20m | Gain the tufa and continue with a long reach |
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57 | Publicassion sin tradision | 7b+ | 20m | The steep line up the right hand side of this sector |
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58 | A mi no m'afecta | 6c | 12m | Climb the left hand side of the pillar. A direct is also possible (s'ambossa, 6c) |
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59 | Espanya no m'apanya | 7b | 15m | The right hand side of the pillar |
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60 | En médium | 7c | 15m | Short and hard |
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61 | Dia de borratxera | 7b | 15m | ![]() |
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62 | Joc de manos | 7a | ![]() |
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B00 | SECTOR POTENT | 50m to the RIGHT of SECTOR FUNCICIO |
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B01 | Gandia Potent One | 5c | 20m | At the left hand end of the Potent sector |
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B02 | Stephen Kaka | 6b+ | 20m | ![]() |
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B03 | Cuartet de bany | 5b | 20m | Climbs to the same lower off as Stephen Kaka |
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B04 | Novatillos | 5c | 20m | An excellent route up the grey wall behind the bush |
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B05 | P.R. | 4c | 25m | The groove |
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B06 | G.R. | 6c+ | 25m | A right hand finish to the previous route |
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B07 | Maque, Popeye y la Sirla | 6b+ | 30m | ![]() |
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B08 | Donde hostias putas | 6b+ | 25m | ![]() |
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B09 | Joputa | 6b+ | 20m | Climb steeply out of the cave and continue up bulges then the grey wall |
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B10 | Star fort | 7b | 20m | Climb the orange pillar to eventually join Joputa near the top |
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B11 | Tercer ull | 7b | 20m | Start as for Star fort, and move right before the bulge to the lower off of Mulek |
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B12 | Mulek el targui | 7b | 20m | An excellent route up the wall to the right of Star fort. Start just right of the pillar and trend up and left to difficult final moves |
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B13 | Urbalia Rurana | 7b | 25m | Start as for Mulek then move right through the bulges left of the crack |
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B14 | Sugar glass | 7b+ | 25m | The steep wall left of the "eyes" |
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B15 | Botoia sakatu | 7c | 25m | The steep wall and small roof right of the "eyes" |
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B16 | Enya | 7b | 25m | The right hand tufas that finish at the same lower off as Botoia sakatu |
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B17 | Baila al alba | 7b+ | 25m | Climb through the two roofs right of Enya |
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B18 | A la babilla | 7a+ | 25m | An excellent route that gains the hanging groove right of Baila al alba |
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B19 | L'os | 7a | 20m | Climbs the elephant like tufa with a problem start followed by steep sustained climbing. Excellent |
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B20 | Dos super carrozas | 7a+ | 15m | ![]() |
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B21 | Don Diego | 7a+ | 15m | ![]() |
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B22 | Jaqo mata | 7a+ | 15m | ![]() |
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B23 | Sopas del rei | 7b | 15m | A steep pocketed wall |
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B24 | Solta el mos | 7a | 15m | ![]() |
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B25 | Gallo de la Susanna Alba | 7a | 15m | ![]() |
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B26 | Otilia resiste | 7a+ | 15m | ![]() |
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B27 | Prou d'hipocresia | 7a+ | 15m | ![]() |
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B28 | Groceries | 7a | 20m | ![]() |
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B29 | Andreu i Papandreu | 6b+ | 25m | ![]() |
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B30 | A mano | 7a | 20m | ![]() |
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B31 | Bum bum ipaneme | 5b | 15m | ![]() |
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B32 | Beato Andres Hibernon | 6a | 15m | To the same lower off as bum bum |
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B33 | Lleones | 5b | 15m | ![]() |
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B34 | Fetiche | 6c | 20m | ![]() |
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B35 | Abu abd Allah Muhammed | 6b+ | 20m | ![]() |
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B36 | Sense goma no conill | 6a+ | 20m | ![]() |
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B37 | 3/4 d'hora | 6a+ | 20m | ![]() |
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B38 | Vergonya | 5b | 20m | ![]() |