Grimsel - Mittagfluh
An excellent 350m slab of granite , offering some fine routes. The routes are bolted, with good anchors on all the belays, however a few friends and wires are necessary on most routes. Although the cliff has a generally "friendly" ambience, the routes are nevertheless long alpine undertakings. On sunny weekends the crag can get busy and although the rock is mostly solid on the routes, there are still some loose stones on the ledges. Descent by abseil is the easiest way down, but can be dangerous for other parties, so the walk round, although steep and alpine is recommended.
From Innetkirchen follow Grimsel pass to the small village of Guttannen, continue through, after 1 to 2 km the the road goes through a gallery. Shortly after the road crosses the river and about 200m further on is a parking spot on the left hand side of the road, with a conspicuous boulder in the meadow and a large pylon on the other side of the road. Follow the path from the left hand side of the parking uphill, crossing a stream ro reach the crag in 30 to 40 minutes from the parking.
Camping in Innetkirchern and at Gadmen
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| 01 | Abadia | 7a | 350m | The route left of the arete stays longer in the shade. The 7a pitch can be aided at 6b+ (making the whole route 6b obligatory). 6a+; 5a+; 6b+; 6a+; 5a; 5a; 6b; 6a+; 7a (6b+,A1); 5b; 3a |
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| 02 | Sudkante | 5a | 350m | The line just right of the arete. 4b; 4b; 3c; 4b; 4c; 4a; 4b; 3c; 4c; 5a |
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| 03 | Durststrecke | 5c | 350m | *** | A fine route, taking the middle of the sunlit slab. If you find the route thirsty work, there is a tap at the end of pitch 7. Most pitches are 50m long, and it is fully bolted provided you don't wander off onto one of the other routes. 5b; 4c; 5a; 5a; 5a+; 5b; 5a+; 5b; 5c |
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| 04 | Am Ueli sis Chueli | 5b | 350m | The second line of bolts left from the corner, and right of Durststrecke. Not as well bolted as Durststrecke, route finding can be tricky and the best is saved for last. Take some friends and wires. 4b;3b; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a; 5a+; 5b; 5b |
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| 05 | Heidi mier weidi mier beidi | 5c | 350m | The right hand line on the wall. 3b; 5c+; 5a; 5a; 5b; 5a; 5b; 5b; 5b+ |
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| 06 | Loris Boxenstop | 5c+ | 350m | Climbs the face right of the large corner. (5a; 5b+; 5c; 5c+; 4c; 4c; 4c+; 5a; 2; 5a+; 5b; 5a). Descent is either by the alpine path, or by abseiling one of the other routes |
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Crags in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
