Kalymnos Spartan Wall and Afternoon

The crags left of Grande Grotta are perfect for climbing in the Afternoon, they do not get the sun until about 4pm. At their left hand side is the impressive white Spartan Wall, and lower down nearer Grande Grotta the sector Afternoon. Both have excellent routes, mostly steep walls and lower grade slabs.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
250m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
4c - 8c
Faces
East
Sun
Stays in the shade until about 4pm
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

From Masouri go North and park after a few hundred metres by the Philoxenia hotel. A steep path leads up to Grande Grotta, the routes start just round the corner to the left.

Kalymnos Afternoon and Spartan Wall climbing topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Tales of Greek Heroes 6b+ 40m

At the left hand end of Spartan Wall, opposite Spartacus
02 The Siege of Thermopylae 6c+ 35m
03 Leonidas 7a+ 35m
04 The Shield 7b+ 30m
05 Lucifer's Hammer 6c 30m
06 Hippolyta's Belt 6c+ 30m
07 Xerxes 6c+ 35m
08 Spasspartour 6b 45m

Has a lower off in the middle, possible as one long pitch
09 Yanap 7b 50m
10 Probléme mineur 6b 32m
11 Kurva 7a 38m
11e Kurva extension 7b 42m
13 Chocolate Girl Lollipop 6a 20m
14 Hollywood Wax 5b 20m
15 Layo and Bushwacka 5c 20m

Climbs the short broken pillar a few metres left of the cave
16 Broken Souls 7c 30m

This and the next two routes start from the ledge above Layo. Belay from there
17 The Poison 7c+ 30m

Starts as for Broken and moves right
18 Fudoshin 7c+ 30m
19 Spartakiada 6c+ 25m
19e Spartakiada extension 7b+ 45m
20 Harlem Nights 7b+ 15m

Follows the left edge of the cave. One hard move
21 The Beginning at the End 7b+ 15m

The right side of the cave has a bouldery start. There is a very hard (9a+) unfinished extension
22 Titanrope 8c+ 65m

An impressive, long and hard route
23 Hibiscus Market 6a 25m

The first of a collection of slab routes that lead to the top of the grey apron
23e Hibiscus Market extension 8b+ 55m
24 Yo-Yo 5c 30m
25 Poupakis 4c 20m
25e The Path to Deliverance 7c+ 20m

Belay from the cave
26 Dulces Suenos 5a 20m
26e Spartan Wall 8a+ 20m

The big white wall. Technical. Belay from the cave
27 Tigryonak 5b 35m
28 Dimarhos 5a 35m
29 Insomnia 5c 40m
29e Ojos de Brujo 8a 20m

The 2nd pitch to Insomnia is a touch harder
30 Strange Little Girl 4c 15m
30e Motyka Jawa 6c+ 45m

The excellent extension to Strange Little Girl
31 Megaburger 4c 20m
32 Organizer 4b 20m
33 Finger Piercing 4c 20m
33e Spartan Junior 7c 35m

The extension to Finger Piercing
34 Energy 4 May 2000 5b 20m
35 To Deftero Moru Mou 5c+ 20m
35e Butcher of Baragwanath 7b+ 40m

Extension to Deftero
36 Origano 5c 20m
37 Nonno Ringo 5c 18m
38 L'amico Ralph 5c 20m
38e Beta 7b+ 35m

The excellent extension to L'amico. Best to belay from the cave
39 L'Uomo che Non Credeva 6b 20m
40 Kalo Taxidi 6a+ 20m **

A delicate slab with a tricky move
40e Dinosaur Junior 7b 30m ***

The extension to Kalo Taxidi, a superb tufa with a hard start (belay from the ledge) and a pumpy finish
41 Blu 6a 20m
41.5 Live Kyiv 6a+
42 Claire 6c 20m
42.2 Live Odessa 6b
42.4 Hot Potatoes 7c
42.6 Ermis connecting us 7a+
43 Bye bye Doc 6c 25m
43.2 Aratus 6c
44 Jana's kitchen 6b 25m ***

The nice groove, tricky at the top
44.1 Natsa Natsa 6c+
44.4 Adieu les cons 6c
45 Asclepius 6c 25m
46 Panacea 6c 22m
46.5 Svinelli 5c 25m

The extension is 6c 35m
46.6 Harry Zona 5c+ 25m

The extension is 6c+ 35m
46.7 Morteau Rico 5c 25m

The extension is 7c 35m
46.8 Au Revoir lá haut 5c 25m

A nice line. The extension is 6c, 35m
46.9 Cet Humble Heros 5c 25m **

Wanders a bit. The extension is 6c, 35m
47 Swiss Baby 6a+ 25m
47.1 Lady in Black 6a 25m ***

A lovely route. The extension is 7a
48 Tsopanakos 6a 20m

Also possible to continue for a few metres past the first lower off to a 2nd lower off (6a+)
48.5 Smiling Ella 6b 35m *

A long strange route squeezed between Tsopokanis and My Long Holiday. The first 30m are 6b to à blank slab. You tell me after that ...
49 My Long Holiday 6c 25m
50 Captain Haddock 7a 25m

Crags in this region: