Leonidio St. Nicholas
Located just above the monastery of St. Nicholas, are some very impressive cliffs, that reach a height of over 100m. The climbs on the (true) right bank, are long and difficult, and sometimes require a backup rack of trad gear. Those on the (true) left bank are shorter, mostly single pitch. It is often a lot cooler here than in the valley itself, and shade or sunshine can be found according to the time of day. The right bank is in the shade until about 2pm, and the left bank after 3pm. The monastery is worth a visit in its own right. It dates back to the 17th century, is impressively built into the huge rock faces and is today a nunnery. It has magnificent views down to Leonidio and of the surrounding cliffs.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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00 | SECTOR | (TRUE) LEFT BANK |
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00a | Mpiskota | 6b+ | 15m | Actually on the (true) right bank, just up from Toda. The steep short arete. |
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01 | Hanni - Bunny | 7a+ | 25m | |||
02 | Tado | 6a+ | 25m | *** | ||
03 | Mono-Ton | 6c+ | 25m | ** | Aptly named |
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04 | Leonardo in Leonidio | 7a | 12m | *** | ||
05 | Goats up | 6b+ | 30m | *** | ||
06 | Windjammer | 8a+ | 15m | accessed from the right up a short rope |
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07 | Wheelie | 7a | 20m | |||
08 | Broom | 6a | 20m | The left hand variant is 6a, the right 5c. |
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09 | Witch | 5b | 25m | |||
09e | Witch extension | 6c+ | 40m | |||
10 | Kleines Geschenk | 5b | 25m | |||
10e | Grosses Geschenk | 7b | 40m | The extension to "Kleines" |
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11 | St. Nikolaus | 6a+ | 25m | ** | ||
20 | SECTOR | (TRUE) RIGHT BANK. |
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21 | Kopsi tou Stavrou | 7c | 50m | *** | ||
22 | Monks in the Gym | 7c | 80m | *** | 1) 7b 25m 2) 7c 40m 3) 7b 15m. Abseil descent |
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23 | Taraxippus | 6b+ | 60m | *** | ||
24 | Kifinas | 6b | 50m | *** | The big impressive corner. 1) 5c 25m 2) 6b 25m |
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25 | Je m'en fous | 6c | 40m | *** | ||
26 | Sphingofeleas | 7b | 90m | *** | A big long route. 1) 7b 50m. 2) 7a+ 40m. Trad gear also required |
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27 | Leptospirosis | 7c | 40m | *** | ||
28 | Archgoat | 7a | 35m | *** | ||
29 | Apo Michanis Theos | 7a | ||||
30 | Kaour Ekokiate | 7b | 35m | *** | ||
31 | Krampus | 8a | 35m | *** | ||
32 | Folling Stones | 35m | *** |