Pelzli Lower

The lower section of Pelzli is just a few minutes walk from the road and consists of the spectacular Daumenfels, and two smaller buttresses, Le Doigt and Mättelifels. Climbing on the Daumenfels is satisfying, in that the only way to the summit is by climbing, and there are routes on all 4 of its faces. Le Doigt is smaller with just a few shorter routes, Mättelifels is more impressive with a long overhanging nose and some smaller buttresses next to it.  

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
600m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8a
Faces
South
Sun
Although predominately south facing, some shade can be found amongst the trees
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
G01 Route mit Namen 6a+ 10m
G02 Route ohne Namen 6b+ 10m
G03 Aphrosiasis 6b 10m
G04 Tindergarten 6a+ 10m
G05 La fièvre d'urbicande 7b 15m

The wall right of the Aphrosisias buttress

G06 Kleingeistpostille 6a+ 20m

The left hand side of the obvious overhang

G07 Munifriedhof 6a+ 20m

The centre of the overhang

G08 Sonnenuntergang 7a 15m
G09 Zeitalter der Lüge 6a+ 15m
G10 Mummery Riss 5a 15m
G11 Ratanplan 6a+ 15m
G12 Joe Dalton 6a+ 15m
G13 Brandtneu 4b 15m
G14 Elegance et Puissance 7c+ 25m
G15a Luftschloss 7a+ 25m

Start to the left of Sandwich and climb to meet that route at the bulge. Then up the slab left of Sandwich

G15b Sandwich 6a+ 25m ***

The long offwidth crack. A classic from 1943. Either delicately friction either side of the crack, or swim up it. Given 5a in the Fluhbibel (and it didnt have bolts), possibly undergraded at 6a+

G16 Schicksal 6c 20m
G18 Romulus 5b 10m

On a small buttress right of the overhanging prow of Mättelifelsen

G19 Remus 5a 10m

just right of Romulus

H01 Linker H-Riss 5c+ 20m
H02 Rechter H Riss 5c 25m
H03 H Riss Sudpfeiler 5c+ 20m

or "Im lichtigen Reben is die lechte Rinie die linke Loute"

H04 Die pöne Schlatte daneben ... 7b+ 15m
H05 ...und der rinke Liss lechts 6b 15m
H06 Aromat 53 6a+ 25m
H07 Fluxus 7b 15m
H08 Ready Made 7b+ 10m
H09 Blauer Reiter 6a+ 10m

just right of the gully

i01 S'Vreni 6b 35m

1) Start on the front of the buttress, traverse L to the arete, and crosse the roof to a belay. 6a+. 2) Continue up the arete 6b

i02 Amore 7a+ 25m

Climb the centre of the face to the overhang (Amore Dach) and continue over this to join S'Vreni

i03 Anarchia 6c 35m

Connects Amore to the lower off of Kraft durch Freude and then joins S'Vreni. 3 pitches: 5c; 6c; 6b

i04 Kraft durch Freude 7a 20m
i04 e Anarchia direkt 7a 10m

From the lower off of Kraft durch Freude continue direct to the top

i05 Flatulenz 7a 35m
i06 Grosser Kamin 4a 25m

The big chimney

i07 Iseaffe 7a+ 30m

Two pitches 6b;7a+

i08 Realität 6b 20m

The arete

i09 Illusion 6a+ 20m
i10 Totale Illusion 6c 25m
i11 Ostriss 6a+ 25m
i11a Triangel 5c+ 25m

A right hand start to Ostriss joining it at the top of the crack

i12 Normalweg Westwand 4a 10m

The easiest way to the top of the pinnacle. To get to the start either climb Grosser Kamin, or walk round the back to reach the base of the route