Pelzli Upper

The upper section of Pelzli consists of series of buttresses and boulders. The climbing is excellent with routes in all grades from 4c to 8a.

Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Number of routes
Range of Routes
4c - 8a
Although south facing, some of the buttresses only get the sun in the afternoon
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
A06 Weg der Wissenden 7b 15m
A07 Kleptomanie 7b 15m
A08 Faustriss 6a 15m

The hand jamming crack is hard to start

A09 Abraxas direkt 7b+ 15m
A10 Abraxas 6a 15m
A11 Paquet cadeaux 6c 15m
A12 Konfrontation 7a+ 15m

The centre of the wall. Polished

A13 El Gigante 7c 15m
A14 Exodus 7b+ 15m
A15 Schulterriss 6a 15m

Struggle up  the offwidth crack. Given 5b in the Flühbibel !

A16 Aquarius 7a+ 15m

The wall right of Schulterris. Two variants, both 7a+

A17 Bad Fun 7b 15m

The wall right again.Two variants at the top, both the same grade

A18 Via Wackelhaken 6b 15m
A19 4H1U 6a+ 15m

Just left of the corner and right of Wackelhaken. Balancy.

A20 Gelbe Wand 6b 20m

The yellow wall. Three variants possible, all with the same start. From L to R:  Do it or leave it (6c); Coincé (6b); Gelbe Wand (6b); Surprise (6c)

A21 Ligne Apres 7a 25m

The left hand side of the arete. One of the best.

A22 Plat de Résistance 7b 20m
A23 Gelbe Verschneidung 5c 20m
A24 Milliway 7a+ 20m
A25 Petra Kante 6a 20m

The long arete. To the right of Petra Kante are several excellent routes

A26 Pluto 6a

A right hand start to Petra Kante

A27 IPA 6b+ 25m

Same start as Hopfenperle moving left after the ledge

A28 Hopfenperle 5c+ 25m

Starts between Petrakante and Flugroute, tricky climbing on nice pockets.

A29 Flugroute 5c 25m

The long corner. A classic

A30 Ban de Siege 6c 25m

The pocketed wall between the corner of Flugroute and the crack of Via Maduschka

A31 Via Maduschka 6a 25m

The long crack. Start as for Flugroute, move right into the crack and follow it to the top

A32 Via Maduschka right hand finish 6b 25m

Move out of the corner at half height to finish on pockets

A33 Chateau la fritre 7a+ 25m

The wall right of Via Maduscka started direct to join the right hand finish to that route. Slippy

A34 Betty Bossi 7a+ 25m

The wall right of Chateau la fritre

B1 Noname 5b 15m

The wall left of the Overhanging wall

B2 Balletriss 6a 15m
B3 Kristallkrähe 7a+ 15m

A nice route with difficult moves from half height to the lower off. Good footwork required

B4 Playmobile 7c 15m

Tough. It is possible to traverse right at half height to reach Bächli. French Deconnection (7a)

B5 Früchte des Zorns 7b 15m
B6 Bächli go Home 7a+ 15m
C01 Briefmarkensammler 6b 20m

Start just to the right of the "X" on the wall (climbing to the left of here not allowed), and climb initially the corner then the wall to the difficult last few moves

C02 Bal Musette 7a 20m

Start just right of the corner and climb direct to join Briefmarkensammler. Very hard at this grade. 7c?

C03 Patrilogique direkt 6c 20m

The right hand vaiant is slightly easier at 6b+

C04 Gasröhre 6a+ 20m
C05 Moby Dick 6a+ 20m
C05a Unmögliche 7a+ 15m

Start as for Moby Dick and move right onto the wall to a lower off. The 2nd part is not climbed

C06 Zebrakante 7c+ 15m
C06a Zeitmaschine 7b+ 15m

Starts as for The Wall and moves left to the Zebrakante arete

C07 The Wall 8a+ 15m

Climbed in 1986, one of the hardest slabs around at the time

C08 Süsser Wahn 7b 15m

Finishes as for The Wall. The direct finish is BSE (7a)

C09 Dangvadar 6b+ 15m

The right hand finish is Le Troisieme Age, (7a+)

C10 Mescalin Highway 6a+ 15m
C11 Pony Express 6a 15m
C12 Fury 7a 15m

A good wall climb with some hard fingery moves in the middle

C13 Fondation et l'Empire 7a 20m
C13v L'Empire contre l'attaque 7a 20m

A variant to Fondation, starting to the right, joining it, leaving it and finishing at the same place 

C14 Imago Spurie 7b+ 20m
C15 Gilb 6a+ 20m
C16 Metzerstrasse 59/61 7a 20m
C17 Wassermusik 7c+ 20m
C18 The Edge 7b 20m
C19 Cool und Schwul 7a+ 20m

The arete starting from a small terrace up and to the right. The left hand line of bolts is The Edge (7b). Cool und Schwul traverses into the Edge aand has the same finish. Finishing direct instead of traversing into the Edge is Schon Cool (7c+)

C20 The Kill of Rouge 7b 20m

The orange wall right of Schon Cool and left of the Murmelriss corner. Also possible to continue after the small roof - Rote Liebe (7b+) 25m.

C21 Murmelriss 5c 15m

The slippy corner from the small terrace

C22 Siebnerkante 6b 15m

The bolted arete right of the corner

D01 Grümschelihighway 6a 15m
D02 Westwand 5c+ 15m
D03 Stadt Indianer 6b+ 15m
D04 AJZ Weg 5c 30m
D05 Yoda 7a 30m
D06 Südwand 6a 30m
D07 Teufelsriss 5b 25m
D08 English Rain 6b+ 25m
D09 Innere Ruhe 5c+ 25m
D10 Auto-Reverse 7b 15m
D11 Sechserkante 5c 15m
E01 The short people's problem 8a 15m
E02 Totentanz der Fingerspitzen 7c+ 15m
E03 Autopsy 7a+ 15m
E04 Eispalast 7c 20m
E05 THC 7b 15m
E06 Im Auftrag des Herrn 7b 15m
E06 Zuvielisation 7c 15m
E07 Rechenschieber 5b 20m

Finishing at the first lower off is 4a

E08 Bakunin 6b 10m
E09 Rechenschieberkante 5b 10m
E10 Apodiktische Apotheose 6c+ 20m
E11 Risskamin 4b 15m
E12 Joggeli 4a 15m
E13 Bimbo 4a 15m
E14 Avec les Doigts 6c+ 10m
E15 Jo-Jo 6a 10m

The crack on the small buttress right of Rechenschieber

E16 Hausdrachen 6a+ 10m

Just right of Jo-Jo

F01 Gulp 6c 7m

The overhanging wall on the isolated buttress beneath Zwillingsturm

F02 Russki Boogie 7b+ 8m

Right of Gulp

F03 Hualp 8a 8m

Right of Russki Bougie

F04 Hualp 7a 8m

Right of Polski Blues