Rätikon - Sulzfluh
The Sulzfluh is situated at the east end of Rätikon, the chain of mountains above Schiers and St. Antonien that forms the border between Switzerland and Austria. Whereas Kirchlispitze at the west end of the range is known for its long, hard routes, Sulzfluh offers similar long routes, but perhaps at a more amenable grade. The area is beautiful, the cliffs rise above Partnunsee, which in summer offers a cool bath after a long day on the crag. The rock is mostly excellent, with water washed runnels forming many of the routes that rise to the limestone pavements around the summit. The routes described here provide double bolts on all the belays, and most hard moves are protected by bolts. The easier sections in between are often run out, it is worth taking some wires and friends, although due to the compact nature of the rock, you probably wont find many placements. The routes can be slow to dry after rain. Descent is by walking right from the top of the routes in a NE direction, following the cairns until it is possible to cut right on an improbable looking path (marked with red and white paint) that goes steeply down via a couple of cabled sections. About 1h 15 to the base of the routes.
From St. Antonien take the road north and park in parking number 6. From here it is about 75 minutes walk past Partnunsee to the base of the routes. It is possible to drive further to the small village of Partun, however it is only possible to park here if you stay in one of the two mountain hostels. From here is less than an hour to the routes. Follow the track past the north side of Partnunsee until you reach a small rock face where the path goes right. Turn left here to reach the base of the routes Rialto and Kathedrale.
Accommodation is available in the Berghaus Alpenrösli and Berghaus Sulzfluh in Partnun. There are also several hotels in St. Antonien as well as the nearby SAC Carschinahütte, although this is a bit too far from the routes on Sulzfluh.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 01 | Kathedrale | 6a+ | 700m | *** | A very long alpine route with an interesting excursion through the caves near the top. |
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| 02 | Rialto | 6b | 600m | *** | A classic long Alpine route, well bolted, Start at the lowest point of the buttress, the name is written at the base of the route. Most pitches are 40m to 50m (1) 5a+; (2) 5b+; (3) 5c+; Trend slightly left. (4) 6a+; Move up then right before pulling round a bulge. An excellent pitch. (5) 4c. (6) Scramble up the grass to a belay left of a small cave. (7) 4c (8) 4b. Trend slightly right (9) 5b+. move up and right to belay below the grass band. (10) scramble up the grass band (11) 5c+ (12) 3b; Traverse up and left. Exposed (13) 6b; The crux. Climb up the slab to a difficult pull around the bulge (14) 6a+; Up the beautiful slab, with some technical moves to left then right to start it. (15) 5c+ (16) scramble to the top |
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| 03 | Honigvogel | 6c+ | 200m | A variation start to Rialto that can be done as a route in its own right. (1) 4. Start up Rialto, and move right at the 2nd bolt (2) 5b (3) 6a (4) 6c+ to join Rialto. Either continue up that route or abseil down it. |
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Crags in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
