Schlüchttal Falkenstein

Falkenstein is geologically interesting, with the large cliff split into three distinct sections. The lower tier has a few routes, but are mostly of value as the access to the other two. The middle tier has some excellent short routes, and a couple of longer ones, although these can be dirty if there has not been much traffic. The routes on the right hand side of the middle tier finish on an exposed ridge, and it is a pleasant excursion to it's summit on the E side. The upper cliff also has some nice shorter routes, and excellent views of the valley. During the nesting season, climbing is not allowed from the beginning of February to end July.

Region
Germany - Schlüchttal
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
500m
Number of routes
50
Faces
South
Climbing Area
Schlüchttal
Directions

The best climbing is on the middle tier. To reach this, drive up from Witznau for 1.2 km and park in a layby on the left hand side of the road just after a sharp left turn. Walk back down the valley for 200m until you see a rope on the right hand side of the road. Climb steeply up alongside the rope and continue up and right to the foot of the routes on the lower tier. Climb one of these trending up and left (15m, grade 3/4, 4 bolts) to the terrace below the middle tier.

Falkenstein, Schlüchtal, topo, klettern, climbing

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 MITTLEREs BAND
01 Nervenriss 7a 8m **

There are a few old grade 3/4 traditional routes at the left hand side of the terrace, but these are dirty and rarely climbed. Nervenriss is the first "clean" route. Tricky to clip the first bolt, and a friend 2 will be useful higher up.
02 Sinn des Lebens 7c+ 8m

The 2nd route from the left on the short left hand section. Desperate!
03 Schmetterling 7a 8m *

Boulder problem start, move right and then back left
04 Tanz der Frösche 7b+ 10m **

An amusing first move and keeps it's interest
05 Das Problem 7b 11m *

Another hard start
06 Oben ohne 6c 12m *

Boulder problem start, a couple of bolts and then a trad crack climb.
07 Keilriss 6b+ 32m *

To the right of "Oben ohne" is a bolted wall .Climb this, finishing more easily, but with natural protection up the finishing crack.It is possible to traverse right after the 3rd bolt to connect with Nonnenrutsch, making an excellent eliminate. Slightly easier than continuing to the crack.
08 Nonnenrutsch 5c+ 32m ***

A long classic route starting in the small gully/corner that climbs up and leftwards to a small overhang. Go over this, or round it on the left, and continue up following the bolts and the cleanest line to the summit
09 Solarium 5c 32m **

The line of bolts just to the right of Nonnenrutsch starting at the same place, but moving dirctly over the lip at the bolt
10 Benediktusverschneidung 5b 20m *

Start as for Nonnenrutsch but go direct over the small overhang snd follow the rightward trending crack
10a Keine Chance für dicke Arsche 6c 20m **

A direct start to Benediktusverschneidung. The hard move at the first bolt can be avoided by moving left (6a+)
11 Spezial 6a+ 20m **

Climbs direct to the lower off of Benediktungsverschneidung
12 Buch 5b 15m *

A nice route, although the bolts could be better placed. Also possible to reach the same lower off by the bolts on the left at the same grade, but usually dirty
13 Klostersteig 4b 15m *

Over blocks to the lower off of Bruderbrunnenweg
13a Bruderbrunnenweg 5c 12m **

Follow the corner on the arete, starting on the left, or slightly harder, direct.
14 Einbahnstrasse 5c+ 12m ***

At the left hand side of the slab you reach from the lower tier, is a corner. Climb this to a small overhang, and go round this with difficulty. As a fun finish to this route, traverse the ridge to the right to finish on the summit of the middle tier with wonderful views of Schlüchttal.
15 Hungertuch 6a+ 12m **

The corner to the right of Einbahnstrasse is climbed to the small overhang, where a boulder problem leads to a second tricky move and the top
16 Rudi Grifflos 6b 12m **

The slab to the right of Hungertuch has a thin crack in it, that is difficult to climb.

17 Joe Cool 6b+ 12m ***

Excellent

18 Vakuum 6b **

The right hand line on the first slab you reach from the lower tier
20 OBERES BAND
21 Kante 4a **

Direct up the arete to the summit
22 Bäumlerverschneidung 5a *
23 Namenlose 4c **

After the crack climb the unprotected slab, or follow Bäumlerverschneidung
26 Kleiner Riss 5c ***

nuts needed. one bolt.
28 Gang jetzt, i ha Durchsucht 5b ***

nice climbing with a finishing hand jam crack
29 Falkenpfeiler 6b+ **

Hardest at the start
31 Wir werden was wir sind 6c+

Crags in this region: